Fairing

[jaysea]

My (wooden hulled) boat seems to have suffered some "scouring" around the water line, the timber isn't wasted by more than 1/8th to 1/4" but the wasting is quite extensive in area. I was thinking of fairing the hull using "West system" epoxy based fairing stuff. However, I'm a little bit hesitant as its not very "traditional". Anyone got any advice or tips?

 

[Peterduck]

Hmmm. A lot will depend on the type of construction; whether it is carvel, clinker, cold moulded or plywood sheet. Can you tell us more please?
Peter.

 

[burgundyben]

David - look at one of Jaysea's posts further down and you'll see a link to his site featuring his boat.

In this case (with a DD hull) I would say that epoxy fairing not the way to go, whilst more stable than a carvel or clinker boat not enough for epoxy to be suitable, having not seen it its hard to say how best to approach it, I'd maybe think along the lines of doubling the affected areas with planks and fastening through into the frames.

Doubtless others more experience than me wil have better suggestions.

 

[Peterduck]

Thanks for pointing out the link to the website, Ben. I wonder if the planks of the outer skin where it has been wasted could be replaced? It would involve removing the fastenings over that area, and because of that would need to be done one plank at a time. Not that I would be suggesting to replace the whole plank, only the part that is wasted. I am assuming that the planks are not glued together at all, but mechanically fastened. A variation of that might be to remove the affected part of a plank, and if the plank is fairly thick compared to the wastage, to put it through a thicknesser to get it even again, and laminate a veneer on the top. Trim the edges of the veneer to match the plank edge and replace the plank. Leave the ends of the veneer to overlap the join in the plank, and rout out the ends of the sound planking to accept the veneer. Much would depend on what is available. Cost would rule out replacing with teak, but there are suitable substitute timbers that could be used.

Do you have any idea what has caused the wastage, Jaysea? Could it be gribble, or ice abrasion? Is there some factor which needs to be mitigated against which might be incorporated in the repair?

There is a wonderful little saw blade which is attached to Fein delta sanders which would be particularly good in this kind of 'surgery' It is rectangular, with teeth on the end, and vibrates along its edge. With it one can cut right up to a piece which must not be damaged. I am told that they are popular in the medical field for cutting off plaster casts without hurting the patient.
Peter.

 

[jaysea]

Thanks for the suggestions. I had rather hoped that I wouldn't have to start removing planks - because if I start, where do I stop? I had allways intended to replace the worst affected areas with graving pieces, but that still leaves areas that need tidying up but arn't causing structural problems. There must be some formulation involving red lead, putty, ....................?

 

[Peterduck]

I was only ever considering removing sections of plank where the problem is, not the whole plank. For an alternative, how about stapling a thinnish batten parallel to one edge of a plank across the affected area, and another one about 4" to one side of it. These are to provide a fair curve for a router to follow as it takes off the irregular surface of the wasted plank. Obviously, the fastenings over this area would have had to be removed first. Glue in a veneer on the routed area and replace the fastenings. Proceed with the adjoining area. I'd be very cautious about removing fastenings over a large area at any one time. It pretty laborious, I know, but I don't know the extent of your problem. I don't know of a suitable 'bog' which could be trowelled on and which would not give trouble later.
Peter.