Other than knowing that "multiple links" have failed I can't add anything else.Looks like crack two links up also. Did you find many others?
Interesting that there is no sign of corrosion at the weld indicating that the failure is very recent or that it was there when the chain was galvanised..hmmThis has recently been posted on a Scottish sailing group, worthy of duplication here I thought:
View attachment 179727
View attachment 179726
... I usually anchor in Mud ....
Thanks for sharing.that was my chain and my post on Sailing Cruising Scotland.
The chain has had an easy life - one seasons’ worth of anchoring of anround 40 nights and the most wind we saw last season was 30kts in a sheltered Anchorage in Loch Hourn.
Purchased as ISO & DIN certified chain so I expected acceptable standards.
Gaelforce have been exemplary with their dealing of this and showed great concern and gratitude when I highlighted the issue and sent through photos. 5* to them!
That is really interesting. Many years ago, I had a newly laid mooring fail where "high spec" chain was used. Maybe, in spite of all the encouragement coming from certain quarters to use smaller sized, higher grade anchor chain, ordinary bog standard G30 mild steel chain of a suitable size is actually better.This is interesting because I have noticed a few times now, a smell of H2S (hydrogen sulphide, rotten egg gas) when I recovered my anchor chain. The TreadMaster on my deck, which is dirty, has been bleached clean from the mud after my last suspected H2S even which was quite noticeable. Plain steel will become black in H2S, but not galvanised steel.
Hydrogen sulphide causes embrittlement of steel and especially in welds that have not been heat treated, where the hardness is greater than 22 Rockwell C, or 237 Brinell Hardness. Hence if the QA of the chain failed and welds were not post weld heat treated, the hard steel could be susceptible to sulphide stress cracking.
H2S is commonly produced in shallower muds due to rotting organic matter and warmer conditions, compared to deeper water. Many of us will not recognise it because it washes away from the mud as chain is hauled in, or is in very low concentrations and dissipates. I have significant experience of H2S in oil and gas operations and have witnessed equipment destroyed rapidly when exposed to H2S. Maintaining steel hardness below the specified results is a key factor in preventing embrittlement.
Anyway, just a guess.
237 Brinell is not possible in a steel with carbon content of less than 0.22, which applies to all grades below grade 70. Sulphide stress corrosion cracking is most unlikely but has a branched appearance completely different from what is seen here. There seems little doubt that the welds have not been made correctly due to poor voltage control.This is interesting because I have noticed a few times now, a smell of H2S (hydrogen sulphide, rotten egg gas) when I recovered my anchor chain. The TreadMaster on my deck, which is dirty, has been bleached clean from the mud after my last suspected H2S even which was quite noticeable. Plain steel will become black in H2S, but not galvanised steel.
Hydrogen sulphide causes embrittlement of steel and especially in welds that have not been heat treated, where the hardness is greater than 22 Rockwell C, or 237 Brinell Hardness. Hence if the QA of the chain failed and welds were not post weld heat treated, the hard steel could be susceptible to sulphide stress cracking.
H2S is commonly produced in shallower muds due to rotting organic matter and warmer conditions, compared to deeper water. Many of us will not recognise it because it washes away from the mud as chain is hauled in, or is in very low concentrations and dissipates. I have significant experience of H2S in oil and gas operations and have witnessed equipment destroyed rapidly when exposed to H2S. Maintaining steel hardness below the specified results is a key factor in preventing embrittlement.
Anyway, just a guess.
Ref the blackening of chain: we mostly anchor in mud, often of the smelly variety, and the (galvanized) chain goes black. When I left my chain to be regalvanized, a couple of years ago, they looked at it and thought that it had been painted black , and proceeded to grit blast it, before galvanizing it. I objected to the extra charge, which was subsequently waived. (Thanks Geoff).
As an experienced welder, albeit of old fashioned methods by todays equipment, that was my though exactly. No penetration visible at the join.237 Brinell is not possible in a steel with carbon content of less than 0.22, which applies to all grades below grade 70. Sulphide stress corrosion cracking is most unlikely but has a branched appearance completely different from what is seen here. There seems little doubt that the welds have not been made correctly due to poor voltage control.
William Hackett and Bainbridge import chain into UK from China, they both batch test but I do not know the frequency. They sell.to chandlers in drums, each of which has a certificate that can be seen by customers.We have had a similar experience in mud. The chain went black overnight or rather the galvanising went black. With use later in sand the chain was polished and looked like 'black' stainless - all shiny but black. A short exposure, overnight, is not a real issue - long term its a problem.
Its apparently a common problem in acid, smelly, mud - as found in slow moving rivers and old harbour locations with no through flow. Its also a problem in sewage works - where they might not bother with galvanised chain at all and simply use 'black' chain as the black paint (which wears due to abrasion) and the galvanising (which wears due to sitting in acidic water) have much the same short lifespan.
With a more careful look at the picture I can see the joint has been welded, I can see the slight thickening on either side of the joint - but there looks little penetration and the edges of the link are clean, sharp edges on both sides of the joint. I'd have exp[ected to see some gal on one edge - I can see nothing 'inside' the joint - though I'd not be categorical without having the link itself.
Part of the problem is self inflicted - we expect the chandler to sell product of merchantable quality and he relies on a certificate from the manufacturer. Nobody checks the chain except the manufacturer (who is meant to check the chain and issue a test certificate). None of us ask to see a certificate (which would have the suppliers name on it). Because most local chain makers have given up on making anchor chain we are left with little choice. Vyv has mentioned a UK chain maker who now imports from China (Babbage??) - they might test their chain. CMP has a reputation to protect and they should test their chain (also made at their own factory in China), sold under their Titan brand (same people who market the Rocna anchor). There is a chain maker in France...Chaineries Limoges or something similar - they may still make anchor chain. Some in Italy, sold by Jimmy Green - again it may be made in Italy - or not.
I hate to make mention but buying European lifting chain, which will have been Proof tested continuously, and then having it galvanised is the only foolproof but desperately laborious way to have a degree of certainty. I don't recommend the idea - just mention in passing.
We have to hope most Chinese chain makers are honest.
Jonatha
Looking at chain in a chandler - it will all look good - the gal will hide anything.
I'm not sure how many chandler's car parks have decent vices.The NACM, NACM Welded Steel Chain Specifications, Welded Chain Grades seems to describe the accepted method for chain testing - it is hardly onerous. A few links from a batch and a batch can be huge.
If you look at Vyv's list there appear to be a few importers who are known to conduct their own batch testing - which is a start. So define from whom the chandler obtains their chain. We don't know how much of a batch is tested. However if you simply took a link and tested that link using Vyv's twisted link test and on finding integrity bought from that drum you are being as careful as possible.
You can conduct Vyv's test in the chandler's car park - you just need a decent vice to allow you to hold the link when you cut the link with an angle grinder. You can use the same vice to retain the link when you bend it, use a big adjustable spanner. The weld should always be stronger than the link.
Any and all chandlers should not object to your activity - and it would be in their interest to encourage the test - better than selling duff chain.
It would help us all if those that choose to conduct the test report here.
Jonathan