Facnor LS180 top swivel seized, any DIY fixes?

Skylark

Skylark

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Fitted headsail today but it will not furl away. Top swivel is seized. Looks like thanks to a couple of rusty, mild steel circlips.

Tried boiling water and WD40 but only a rubber mallet makes it turn. Gave up at about 180 degrees as it wasn’t freeing and there’s a risk of further damage.

Anyone know of a DIY fix or is it a job for a Rigger? Many thanks. ?
 
I have just replaced the seals and bearings in my profurl system because the swivel was seized solid. I removed them from the forestay and was kindly given the sizes/part numbers from another forum member who had previously done this job. They were simple automotive bearings and seals and held in place by circlips. The job was pretty straight forward but maybe a little footerie. A decent pair of circlip pliers was required.

If you dismantle the bearings and seals you could just take them into a local bearing supplier near you and they will match them. Failing that just measure them using a set of vernier calipers and order online. I bought both bearings and four seals for under £50 where a new furler system would have cost me thousands.
 
Many thanks for the replies.

I’m happy to recondition it at home, especially given the linked comments that a replacement costs several hundreds. But, any tips and hints to remove and refit the forestay while the boat (Oceanis 41) is in a marina?
 
Hmm, might be a bit difficult in the marina afloat, I did mine when I had the mast removed in the autumn for standing rigging replacement. Others may be along to give more advice. (I don't go up the mast nowadays)
 
Skylark said:
.
But, any tips and hints to remove and refit the forestay while the boat (Oceanis 41) is in a marina?
Click to expand...

If you have enough halliards, use one temporarily in place of the forestay, another to go up the mast on a bosuns chair. Let the forestay/ foil down on a third.

Been there , done that (with several helpers).
 
I had this problem with both my facnor furlers, almost siezed top swivels as well as the drums themselves. They proved to be about the only thing that has ever defeated ny attempts to dismantle and fix. I simply could not get them apart and found no help nor encouragement on t'internet either, just others saying it can't be done. Seems incredible - maybe someone does know how.
 
Skylark said:
Many thanks for the replies.

I’m happy to recondition it at home, especially given the linked comments that a replacement costs several hundreds. But, any tips and hints to remove and refit the forestay while the boat (Oceanis 41) is in a marina?
Click to expand...
Basically a load of balls that get clogged with cack. A can of WD40 used as a washing medium as you wiggle it. Try that first. The circlips are a distraction, they do surface rust but usually dont stop it turning. To remove the bottom of the forestay is relativeky easy. Halyards to keep it all in place. Slacken backstays, there usually isnt an adjuster on the forestay. Then take the pin out of the bottom. The drum is on a short section of extrusion which is pop riveted to the main furler section. Drill that out and slide the drum and short section off the furler section and then you can slide the swivel off. One point to make, your forestay is quite heavy and will maybe need a couple of lines attached to it to pull it in to position when you re assemble
 
Beneteau381 said:
Basically a load of balls that get clogged with cack. A can of WD40 used as a washing medium as you wiggle it. Try that first. The circlips are a distraction, they do surface rust but usually dont stop it turning. To remove the bottom of the forestay is relativeky easy. Halyards to keep it all in place. Slacken backstays, there usually isnt an adjuster on the forestay. Then take the pin out of the bottom. The drum is on a short section of extrusion which is pop riveted to the main furler section. Drill that out and slide the drum and short section off the furler section and then you can slide the swivel off. One point to make, your forestay is quite heavy and will maybe need a couple of lines attached to it to pull it in to position when you re assemble
Click to expand...
Hi Stu,
Thanks for this.
If you can remember, Skylark has very swept back spreaders so the backstay doesn’t have a great influence on forestay tension.

A new swivel costs an eye watering £770. I spoke to a rigger yesterday and he says between half and a full day for 2 people, at £45 per hour +VAT (each man). Goodbye £1500! ?

By coincidence, the rigger will be at the marina this morning so I’ll talk to him some more.

Are you in the U.K.? Do you still have mobile ending 92 and home number ending 32? I’d appreciate a chat about this. Shame that we’re both no longer in Holyhead.
 
I replaced my Facnor 180 top swivel, bought a new one to save the problems of trying to rebuild the old one in Greece. I removed the old one and fitted the new in no more than two hours, perhaps a good deal less. No need to go up the mast, simply detach the forestay at the bottom, remove the drum and slide the old one off, put the new one on.
 
davidej said:
If you have enough halliards, use one temporarily in place of the forestay, another to go up the mast on a bosuns chair. Let the forestay/ foil down on a third.

Been there , done that (with several helpers).
Click to expand...
+1. I had a problem with the plastic bearing that interfaces between the stay and the top of the foil. I went to a rigger to get it sorted, but they were so busy that Gave me the parts and told me how to do it. I went up the mast in the manner you describe and dropped the foil and stay, did the repair on the pontoon, (luckily I am next to the hammerhead), and put it back up myself.
 
Hi, had the same problem. As mentioned, google this, there are a few threads on YBW and Jeanneau forums with good advice. Where are you based? Im in Clyde Marina in Ardrossan, the riggers there Clyde Rigging removed old and fitted new for a bit over £120.

LS 180 can be serviced, I have serviced mine, but it is not user friendly. There were a number of different variants of the LS180, some with SS ball bearing races, others with Tolron. The tolron ball type seem to be freed by water etc, but mine is SS ball bearings, and on dismantling I found a mess of water contaminated old grease. Water cleaning would never have sorted this. Also, the HD plastic spacers in some were a friction fit (need to jig a pulling device to get them out) and others are reported as loose. Finally, the lip seals are a difficult size; in the end Ashton Seals were able to supply them, but 6 week lead time. So - do-able, but depends on your timeframe and tech skills!
 
Skylark said:
Hi Stu,
Thanks for this.
If you can remember, Skylark has very swept back spreaders so the backstay doesn’t have a great influence on forestay tension.

A new swivel costs an eye watering £770. I spoke to a rigger yesterday and he says between half and a full day for 2 people, at £45 per hour +VAT (each man). Goodbye £1500! ?

By coincidence, the rigger will be at the marina this morning so I’ll talk to him some more.

Are you in the U.K.? Do you still have mobile ending 92 and home number ending 32? I’d appreciate a chat about this. Shame that we’re both no longer in Holyhead.
Click to expand...
phone the same still
 
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