Eye splice for 16 plait ropes

kandoma

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I have tried unsucessfully for two days to make an eye splice. 16 plait Marlowbraid.

After many attempts, I managed to get the eye correct up to the point, where I have to pull the outer cover inside the splice. There is insufficent room for the additional material. Is there a trick to do this ?

I have the proper needle and the guide from Marlow. I started with removing 50% of the inner core, I also experimented with 65 % removal to no avail. I managed to get the inner core flawless into the cover and form the eye as it should be. Then I try to move some slack in the outer cover up to the eye to widen the cover. There I fail. I just barely manage to get the needle up to the eye, but when I try to pull the remaining outer cover down, I get stuck . The guide from Marlow calls for removing 6 strands of the outer cover, 5 cm from the neck of the eye. Whats that good for ? I never reach the point, where the last remainig 5 cm get pulled into the standing part.

Peter
 
Join the club.
Got the guides,written intructions,internet guides,those long needly things,Stanley knife,hot knife and watched a professional do it three times.
It's a skill I attempt to master every two years, and always end up with a dogs breakfast.
Can I commend "stitch and whip" as an easier fool proof method of making an eye.
Mind you they dont last very long,one I did 10 years ago on a boat I recently revisited was looking a bit tatty.
 
Are you doing this with new rope? It's much more difficult with used rope. I sweated blood trying this on some old rope (12mm Matt), then found it much easier when I did it on the new stuff (8mm Marlowbraid)

Try creating more slack at the first stages - milk down more of the cover. Its that "extra" cover that allows space for the core and cover to be contained.
 
I see! Town mice and contry mice ( Beatrix potter!)Ive just spliced my 10mm line to 10mm chain And renewed the spice usein 18mm rope(polypropelene- Nylon-very expensive) to 8mm chain

Its all a question of povety!Povety well i have time,afterall i cant go shopping untill the market closes i take old rope and weave fenders mostly for myself and the boats next to me!
As days pass when im sailing i practice rope work for the tiller thetea cups eventualy working the rope becomes second nature and amazes summer boaters

Just keep on playing with the line!
 
[ QUOTE ]
Are you doing this with new rope? It's much more difficult with used rope. I sweated blood trying this on some old rope (12mm Matt), then found it much easier when I did it on the new stuff (8mm Marlowbraid)

Try creating more slack at the first stages - milk down more of the cover. Its that "extra" cover that allows space for the core and cover to be contained.

[/ QUOTE ]
Yup, I agree the job is very difficult indeed with old rope although it is possible. I remember a rigger telling me he would never eyesplice used braid for a customer.
Today I've done several eyes in new 10mm braid-on-braid, they didn't take long, they ain't perfect but not half bad. Never seen the Marlow guide - I use 'Knots in Use' by Colin Jarman.
 
Milk a pile of cover up from the rest of the line to near the splice. Tie the line 2mts odd back from the splice and have another go. If it works thenm milk all the excess cover back to the bitter end and trim as required.

Other things you can try:
Bash (not to hard but firmly) the splice area with a hammer like object. This helps free up some of the fibres that jamb up during the rest of the splice.
As mentioned above don't tie the rope of 'XX fid lengths back' use a longer length 2-3mts.
Try fixing the rope and putting a winch (block and tackle??) to the spliced eye. Load it up a bit and milk the cover then.
Find better instructions.

try http://www.samsonrope.com/index.cfm?page=28
look for CLASS 1 double braids. These are OK and may help.
DO NOT USE CLASS 2, they are for dyneema cores and the like.
 
thanks for the info. I think, I got it. I did buy 150 meter new rope and I have to stop now, or I will run out of rope ....

I will use a palstek where possible and stitch the loose end to the standing part. For the halyards I'm going to use the stitch methode.

Peter
 
Some of the responses refer to doublebraid splicing, which is different.

Marlowbraid core isn't braided. The splice is different from doublebraid / braid-on-braid. (I used Marlowbraid for replacement spinnaker halyard and pole topping lift last year - partly since it was on special offer)

http://www.marlowropes.com/public/printerFriendly.cfm?x=page&y=205

There also instructions in a book I have at home, which do the final burying of the cover differently. I'll see if I can look that out.

You could unbraid the cover and pull each strand down separately, but then you'd have nothing to pull on to get it all closed up.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Are you doing this with new rope? It's much more difficult with used rope. I sweated blood trying this on some old rope (12mm Matt), then found it much easier when I did it on the new stuff (8mm Marlowbraid)

Try creating more slack at the first stages - milk down more of the cover. Its that "extra" cover that allows space for the core and cover to be contained.

[/ QUOTE ]

The difficulty factor new vs old actually depends on the rope in use ... Some ropes harden up with age ... some soften up. Depends on the quality and material used in construction.

I know ropes braided / 3 / 4 strand etc. etc. that are so hard (meaning tight construction) that it takes a hammer to get the fid / spike in ... Year later after rope has been used and eased, same rope will take same fid / spike by hand ...
 
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