Explain these controls

[Warpa]

Having problems starting the boat, turns over fine and almost started but i now have the battery on charge. I think the choke is where the key goes in, you push it while turning the engine over.

The lever that is flat i think is to reve the engine out of gear? what position should this be in for starting?

Then there is a knob that turns both ways untill tight, no idea on that, and some switch thing that doesnt switch or turn

 

[aquapower]

Having problems starting the boat, turns over fine and almost started but i now have the battery on charge. I think the choke is where the key goes in, you push it while turning the engine over.

The lever that is flat i think is to reve the engine out of gear? what position should this be in for starting?

Then there is a knob that turns both ways untill tight, no idea on that, and some switch thing that doesnt switch or turn

I have the same OMC control lever on my Ryds, you lift the lever for fast idle while starting/warming up then it has to be down before putting in gear, by pushing the key in you operate the choke, this actually squirts fuel in rather than shutting off the air flow like a normal choke, the knob below the keyswich is the tension adjuster hold the lever in the required position.

 

[jfm]

I...pushing the key in you operate the choke, this actually squirts fuel in rather than shutting off the air flow like a normal choke,

Tom, iirc on some engines the choke is a flap to throttle the airflow. Depends which engine you have. If it is a solenoid operated flap, it's important to push the key in BEFORE twisting the key to run the starter motor, because on many older engines the voltage drop as the starter motor turns means there isn't enough oomph to operate the solenoid, and you can't hear the solenoid failing to click becuase of the noise of the engine cranking. So unless you know you don't need to, it generally is better to push the key in first, then turn the key, imho

 

[Warpa]

Tom, iirc on some engines the choke is a flap to throttle the airflow. Depends which engine you have. If it is a solenoid operated flap, it's important to push the key in BEFORE twisting the key to run the starter motor, because on many older engines the voltage drop as the starter motor turns means there isn't enough oomph to operate the solenoid, and you can't hear the solenoid failing to click becuase of the noise of the engine cranking. So unless you know you don't need to, it generally is better to push the key in first, then turn the key, imho

I would say its from the 80'2, a two stroke 55HP Johnson. I got a text back from the chap i bought it from, he said turn the key one notch, then press then turn again, dont pull the idle leaver up untill its started...does this sound about right

 

[Kawasaki]

Yep, that sounds abouht right
The lever is for 'fast idle' or reving up in neutral

 

[Warpa]

Yep, that sounds abouht right
The lever is for 'fast idle' or reving up in neutral

Excelent if she doesnt fire up would about 5 seconds be right to turn it over so as not to burn anything out?

 

[aquapower]

Tom, iirc on some engines the choke is a flap to throttle the airflow. Depends which engine you have. If it is a solenoid operated flap, it's important to push the key in BEFORE twisting the key to run the starter motor, because on many older engines the voltage drop as the starter motor turns means there isn't enough oomph to operate the solenoid, and you can't hear the solenoid failing to click becuase of the noise of the engine cranking. So unless you know you don't need to, it generally is better to push the key in first, then turn the key, imho

I have a 50 twin and a 60 triple, both VRO, Just had a look in the service manual and it shows either an electric primer or a manual one, not sure what the set up is on the non VRO , I would usually start mine by lifting the lever and then by pushing the primer and then cranking over and holding primer in for a few seconds after she fires, then lower the lever ready to move off, as said its best to push primer before cranking over. These also have a manual overide lever should the primer fail.

 

[jfm]

I have a 50 twin and a 60 triple, both VRO, Just had a look in the service manual and it shows either an electric primer or a manual one, not sure what the set up is on the non VRO , I would usually start mine by lifting the lever and then by pushing the primer and then cranking over and holding primer in for a few seconds after she fires, then lower the lever ready to move off, as said its best to push primer before cranking over. These also have a manual overide lever should the primer fail.

All agreed Tom for your engines. OP doesn't say what his engine is. He could have one with a choke flap valve operated by a solenoid, for all we know

 

[Warpa]

Its a 1980's 2 stroke, i know that leaves a 10 year discepency lol. When i tried to start it as soon as i pushed the key i turned it over, maybe i need to push the key and hold it for a bit?

I opened the air release valve, pumped the fuel thingy untill solid, then the battery went flat That is when i posted here

 

[aquapower]

Its a 1980's 2 stroke, i know that leaves a 10 year discepency lol. When i tried to start it as soon as i pushed the key i turned it over, maybe i need to push the key and hold it for a bit?

I opened the air release valve, pumped the fuel thingy untill solid, then the battery went flat That is when i posted here

Can you post a picture of your engine and a picture of your carb, then I can compare to the pics in the manual as there are several variants

 

[Warpa]

Can you post a picture of your engine and a picture of your carb, then I can compare to the pics in the manual as there are several variants

Will take some pics when i get in tomorrow, too wet and dark to go out now