Expanding steel ballast

[Guest]

I own a 23 yr old Foxterrier with lifting keel. The steel ballast bonded to the hull bottom has rusted and expanded badly. I am concerned that this might damage the hull if i dont cut it out and replace it. I am considering replacing the old ballast with lead. I know i must be careful with distribution and and total weight. The old ballast appears to be bonded within a grid of fibreglass, the grid may or may not be moulded around timber. My question is am i right to be concerned about the old expanding ballast or not and if so any advice on the replacement procedure (DIY)
would be very much appreciated.

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[richardandtracy]

Yes I do think you are right to be bothered!
If the ballast is in smallish lumps and the sides of the ballast have expanded (as is likely) then your hull will probably be under considerable tension in the area under the ballast, meaning that it could eventually split open if the process is allowed to continue.

Removal of the ballast. I would suggest that you work out how it was put in when originally built and reverse the process. Failing that, see if you can't discuss it with the original manufacturer. Beyond that, I wouldn't like to spout without seeing your vessel.

If the steel ballast is not structural (and I would hope it isn't in a glass boat), then do replace with lead. It sounds as if the existing stuff is well spread out. My suggestion would be to buy lead in a form that would enable you to get roughtly the same weight per area - so if using lead sheet or small brickets don't stack it up to the thickness of the steel. A good way of doing this might be to mix lead shot into resin and plaster it over the areas where the steel has been removed. The thickness of a resin/shot mix would probably be around the same as the steel it replaced.
Bond any lead in with a final glass/ resin cover coat.

Regards

Richard


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[oldsaltoz]

G'day SirTopHat,

Good advice from Richard, don't worry about having to cut the grid that will most likely have a timber base going on the age of the boat; you can re-build them by scarfing a joint and adding some extra fibreglass, just remember to taper the extra glass to avoid a hard spot.

The protective coating on the steel (probably cast iron) sounds like it's failed, and access to this area will be all but impossible, so replacing it with lead is a good long term fix.

If you need detailed info on re-glassing, fell free to send me a message.

I hope this helps, and worry too much, there is not much at all you can do to a fibreglass hull that can't be made as strong, if not stronger than original.




<hr width=100% size=1> Old Salt Oz /forums/images/icons/cool.gif Growing old is unavoidable. However, growing up is still optional.

 

[colby]

hi

cheers guys this is going to be my winter job also have the same issue,,, I will be replacing it with lead...

cheers

colin

 

[Bobobolinsky]

Is a 23 year old foxterrier worth a lead ballast replacement. Someone posted a supplier of steel stampings in another thread.
http://www.punchdeckingstore.co.uk/steel-punchings-ballast-p-83.html
Use this with two pack poly encapsulation.
Scrap Lead is £1.50 a kilo today, may be £3.00 a kilo by winter.
Alternatively remove existing ballast and chip/grind it uppaint it and replace, either encapsulating in poly or glassing in.

 

[ianat182]

Used to sail a Wildfire ballasted keel dinghy(Proctor/O'day design). The keel was a hollow glassfibre insert into a aerofoil slot in the hull, the ballast was lead shot in small bags of around 56lbs each, five bags filled the cavity and were removed after sailing was finished; then the shell of the keel removed before trailing ashore.
5 minutes lifting the ballast out or in each time, and no rust or corrosion problems.
Might this be an option for you, not that you would need to remove every time you sail ,but handier than bedding ballast in GRP/resin.

ianat182

 

[rob2]

Of course your boat is worth a top grade fix! I haven't sailed a Foxterrier myself, but have always liked the look of the whole family. I would have thought that the most difficult part is finding out how much ballast is required - after which you need to emulate the distribution of the original. Stretching it out fore-and-aft will make turns less lively and bunching it at the centre will make it more lively.

The job is likely to be grubby and unpleasant whilst you're grinding out the old, but once the lead is in you'll be set for a lifetime without repetition.

Rob.

 

[colby]

yep its grubby

Yep its a grubby job!!! and all learning...

col

 

[Lakesailor]

How does a guest post a question? Not seen that before.

By the way, I have a Seahawk with concrete and steel ballast surrounding a lifting keel. It seems according to the website that the expanding ballast can nip the keel box, making it difficult to raise or lower the keel.
Any such problems?

 

[Bosun Higgs]

My question is am i right to be concerned about the old expanding ballast or not and if so any advice on the replacement procedure (DIY)
would be very much appreciated.

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very definitely. Rusting rebar expands and breaks up concrete so rusting ballast will break up your grp for sure

Steel is a cheap and nasty answer for ballast whether encapsulated or in a keel. Best replace with lead.

 

[DownWest]

Cast iron is about 440lb/200kg cu ft verses lead at 710lb/315kg. Lead shot of even size is around 64% the volume of solid, so your ballast change will be about the same volume. Use slow setting resin or it might start smoking. That is advice from a homebuilder on another site.
A
Steel is around 480lb/220kg so similar