Evinrude 4hp 2-stroke?

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mikefleetwood

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I just bought one on ebay.

Problem is, I don't know much about it, as the seller didn't have the handbook.

It's 1998 vintage "light twin".

Can anyone confirm fuel:oil is 50:1?
Starting/stopping proceedure?
Gearbox oil - how to change, what sort, or is it sealed?
Anything else I should know?

Better still, anyone got a pdf of the user handbook they would be prepared to send me?
 
mikefleetwood said:
I just bought one on ebay.

Problem is, I don't know much about it, as the seller didn't have the handbook.

It's 1998 vintage "light twin".

Can anyone confirm fuel:oil is 50:1?
Starting/stopping proceedure?
Gearbox oil - how to change, what sort, or is it sealed?
Anything else I should know?

Better still, anyone got a pdf of the user handbook they would be prepared to send me?
Click to expand...

After 1996 owners manuals should be available from dealers.

Keep an eye open on ebay.

Yes fuel is 50:1 ... ( all 2 stroke Johnsons and Evinrudes from 1968 onwards run on 50:1)

Gear box oil is SAE EP90 Outboard gear oil

Identify two plugs on side of gear box assembly. Remove both to drain. Plugs are the same on FNR gearbox. but differnt sizes on FN only gear boxes
If old oil is milky it contains water and the cause of the water ingress should be identified and rectified.

Fill using a squeezy bottle of oil via the bottom (drain) hole until it overflows. Refit the top plug. remove the oil bottle and quickly refit the drain plug.

It is advised that new sealing washers should always be used ( I'm still using the originals from 1984 :eek:)

Starting procedure may vary with model. You don't say exactly which you have (Model number will ID)

  • If it has a slow running mixture knob leave it set in it mid position.
  • Open the tank vent screw
  • If you have an integral tank turn the combined fuel tap and choke to turn the fuel on.
  • If you have remote tank connect it and pump the bulb to prime the carb
  • Pull the knob to close the choke.
  • Put gear in neutral.
  • Partly open throttle. To the starting mark or thereabouts if marked.
  • Fit clip and safety lanyard on the kill button.
  • Pull string.
  • Return choke as soon as it will allow.. you may have to partly return it as soon as it fires up
  • Press stop button or pull off safety clip to stop. Turn off fuel. Close tank vent

If you do not know when last changed it would be sensible to fit a new pump impeller.
There is no cooling water telltale AFAIK so check for signs of overheating.

Do not use resistor plugs. if you want suppressed plugs use inductively suppressed ones ,Champion Q series or NGK with a Z in the number . Don't let dealers tell you that you can use resistor suppressed plugs! The recommended plugs are Champion QL77JC4 or QL86C. NGK BZ7HS-10 are the equivalent. ( L77JC4 and B7HS-10 are the unsuppressed versions) The correct plug gap is 0.030"

(If there is knob on the end of the tiller combined withthe stop button ( FNR gear versions only I think) its the idle speed adjustment)


Exploded parts diagrams at http://www.boats.net/parts/search/BRP/EVINRUDE/parts.html are very useful
 
Last edited:
Thanks VicS for the useful info. Thanks too for the links to sources of further information.

The model is 4BREC
According to the seller it received a full service, including new impeller last year. It does look very clean and tidy, as if well looked after.

I doubt if I'll get a chance to try it until next week sometime - due to yesterday's strong winds, all the boats on the beach are pulled up onto the slipway, and I don't think there's any chance to get at the water until the fishing boats go to sea again, maybe in a couple of days.
 
Hi, I've had a '93 model from new which may not be too different - got a picture?

Two tips which may be relevant. The recommended throttle position for starting is quite open, not wide open, but closer to that than to tickover. And the combined choke/petrol tap has been aptly described elsewhere as a ”symphony in plastic”. It has a tendency to fall apart, and this means the choke doesn't operate even though you think it's on, and unsurprisingly the engine won't then start from cold. So if you get a chance, take the cover off so you can see how it should work whilst it's still together. Easy enough to put together again when it does come apart, no more difficult than toys out of a cereal packet say, except you haven't got any instructions...
 
Thanks for the warning about the combined choke/fuel tap!

I looked at the exploded parts views linked by VicS - quite useful - I like to be able to see what's supposed to be there, and it could be a useful guide should anything fall off:)

I also looked at the online manuals in the linkd from "Hairy" - the online service manual could be useful, although I do find ebooks in flash to be a pretty unfriendly format. Unfortunately there's no user manual for this model, or even anything close.

I did download the service manual from somewhere else - all 250Mb of it - and then noticed it only goes as far as the 1990 nodels, and I think there have been some changes since!
 
You might not find the exact model number listed but the relevant bit is what you have quoted, 4BREC. B= made in Belgium, R= rope start, E=9 and C=8

It's a pity OMC never saw fit to put owners manuals on line, like other manufacturers. They sold the rights to Ken Cook Co. for models up to and including 1996. From then on the manuals should be available from dealers. Very recent ones are available on line.
 
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