Equaliser Of batteries

[sailaboutvic]

Heading should read , equalising batteries , but I guess most who know me would had work that out


I know this should be posted in PBO.
How many of us liveaboard equaliser our batteries ?
In 40 plus year I never done it , to be honesty I not sure how to .
Having my batteries on charge everyday ( solar panels ) do I need to Equaliser ?
My battery monitor after a few hours sun light show 105% and stay like that all day ,
First thing in the morning before any charging the monitor never read less then 65% mostly 70/75%
Lows volts 12.2 but normally 12.5 .
So is there any need to Equaliser them .
Bit more info
Battery's are seal lead acid .
£100 touch job
I normally replace then ever four years .
Over to you guys .

 

[macd]

Heading should read , equalising batteries , but I guess most who know me would had work that out.

Battery's are seal lead acid .

I normally replace then ever four years.

Morning Vic. Your post was as clear as ever (once I ran it through my Enigma machine).

There are exceptions, but for the most part sealed batteries must not be equalised. So that lets you off the hook.

The acid test is...er, to test the acid. If there's a significant difference in specific gravity between cells, then the battery should be equalized. But you can't test that, so there's no point telling you what that difference might be.

So, off the hook, again. You really are having a great day, mate. But then it is Sunday and I'm sure you've earned it.

Every four years? Are you suggesting this should become an olympic event? Or perhaps a new, improved way of choosing US presidents? How fast you can run down Pennsylvania Ave carrying 400Ah of batteries, something like that. Live on NBC. This could have legs.

P.S. If you're still concerned about the batteries, you could try one of these: http://www.dvdtalk.com/reviews/images/reviews/68/1412561407_1.jpg

 

[sailaboutvic]

Morning Vic. Your post was as clear as ever (once I ran it through my Enigma machine).

There are exceptions, but for the most part sealed batteries must not be equalised. So that lets you off the hook.

The acid test is...er, to test the acid. If there's a significant difference in specific gravity between cells, then the battery should be equalized. But you can't test that, so there's no point telling you what that difference might be.

So, off the hook, again. You really are having a great day, mate. But then it is Sunday and I'm sure you've earned it.

Every four years? Are you suggesting this should become an olympic event? Or perhaps a new, improved way of choosing US presidents? How fast you can run down Pennsylvania Ave carrying 400Ah of batteries, something like that. Live on NBC. This could have legs.

P.S. If you're still concerned about the batteries, you could try one of these: http://www.dvdtalk.com/reviews/images/reviews/68/1412561407_1.jpg

Thanks Mac
I should had said they normally last at less four years although the once I have now came of the my other boat so this is the fifth years , so no big deal to change them at a cost of 400 euros for four batteries, that 100 euros a year for 52 weeks of power . I no fan of paying 600 or in some case 800 euros for each batteries when they could easily die if some thing went .wrong .

 

[TQA]

It is inevitable that the cells get unbalanced over time.

Equalizing is supplying a higher than normal charging voltage for longer than normal to get all cells up to full or equal charge. I do this about once a month and top up the cells next day as there is some gassing.

NB my cells are flooded lead acid and as such are not sealed. With sealed cells or AGMs you have to be careful about voltage and time when equalizing.

 

[macd]

With sealed cells or AGMs you have to be careful about voltage and time when equalizing.

One trouble with that is that few boats have the means to dial in a gentler equalising voltage. And, of course, any water lost cannot be replaced (unless they're 'fake' sealed batteries with access caps under a big sticker, as many are. As I'm sure you're aware). Even some AGM battery manufacturers permit a custom equalization job, although they might call it 'conditioning'.

Even with open batteries, one thing I'm not convinced of is the automatic equalization cycle offered by many chargers. The charger has no way of knowing when the process is completed. Basically, it just guesses. To my mind the only reliable monitor is a human bean with a hydrometer.

 

[sailaboutvic]

To my mind the only reliable monitor is a human bean with a hydrometer.

Oh god you don't mean I now have to shop about to buy Heinz bake beans ?

 

[macd]

Oh god you don't mean I now have to shop about to buy Heinz bake beans ?

Your not partial beings on toast?

 

[Mistroma]

I haven't had to equalize my T105s yet, they were installed in mid. April, 2012 and still appear to be fine. I check the SG approx. every 6 weeks between April and October and max. difference in temp. corrected SG was 0.025 only once. Over 28 readings I've had 0.02 difference 6 times and Trojan state that I should equalize if difference gets to 0.03.

One battery has shown 0.02 diff. in last 4 readings whilst other batteries are 0.01 or less. I'm considering switching the 0.02 battery to the opposite side of the bank.

I aim for 14.8V daily recharge voltage but usually only get to 14.65V on sunny days with a little motoring. Smartgauge mostly agrees with SG readings which shows I'm mostly cycling in 70%-85% range with 95%-100% once or twice a week and 50%-55% on odd occasions.

So an equalization charge isn't always needed on a regular basis. However, it will depend on battery quality, charging regime and type of use. You need to monitor SG trends to decide if an eq. charge is really needed.

I decided against AGM for a variety of reasons, one being higher financial risk over an extended period. T105s were only about 20% more than many of the "leisure" batteries on offer and were about £1.09/Ahr in 2012. Pretty much a no-brainer at the time. I would consider cheap "leisure" batteries if T105 replacements were a lot more expensive. I'm happy with T105s but it's down to price and availability if they need to be replaced.

 

[GrahamM376]

Even with open batteries, one thing I'm not convinced of is the automatic equalization cycle offered by many chargers. The charger has no way of knowing when the process is completed. Basically, it just guesses. To my mind the only reliable monitor is a human bean with a hydrometer.

With many chargers, including my old one, for the equalization stage to work they dictate that all loads be removed from the battery during that stage which, as you say, is just a timed event regardless of battery state. With the charger I have now, impossible to equalize anyway.

 

[GHA]

Even with open batteries, one thing I'm not convinced of is the automatic equalization cycle offered by many chargers. The charger has no way of knowing when the process is completed. Basically, it just guesses. To my mind the only reliable monitor is a human bean with a hydrometer.

Will that not depend on what you are trying to achieve by equalising?

Mixing up the electrolyte to get rid of stratification should show up as SG becoming more even but what about trying to blow off hardened sulfate crystals , is it even possible to detect that without sophisticated capacity test kit and lots of time?

Unfortunately for us there is very little data on the way batteries often get used on a liveaboard boat with batteries often not getting back to full state of charge every recharge - is it better to keep the absorption stage voltage high and risk some plate corrosion but gain more from getting back to full charge more often each day? Not sure there is an answer to a question like that with so many variables, I certainly like to go high with the t105's on board - up 14.8 plus and now and again let it creep up to above 15v for a little while based purely on the hope that getting properly fully charged deep into the plates will be better than a bit of plate corrosion. Using water isn't really a problem, easy to get at and they rarely need topping up even with high absorption voltages. Also, the absorption voltages cycles up and down a bit with the fridge running.

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/equalizing_charge
http://shop.pkys.com/Battery-Equalization_ep_44.html

 

[GrahamM376]

I certainly like to go high with the t105's on board - up 14.8 plus and now and again let it creep up to above 15v for a little while

How are you achieving the higher voltages? Neither my mains charger nor the solar will output so high and the alternator (no Sterling/Adverc) tails off at around 14.2 - 14.4v. Will have to go out today and buy a new hydrometer, mine seems to have grown legs and I think bank 1 is shot.

 

[GHA]

How are you achieving the higher voltages? Neither my mains charger nor the solar will output so high and the alternator (no Sterling/Adverc) tails off at around 14.2 - 14.4v. Will have to go out today and buy a new hydrometer, mine seems to have grown legs and I think bank 1 is shot.

For the higher voltages I have a switch that bypasses the solar regulator so the panels are connected straight to the batteries. Not really recommended unless you're looking at a voltmeter connected straight to the battery terminals

I fitted the switch as the cheapo solar regulator from honest Johns cuts loads of power from the panels even when the voltage is below 14v.

 

[GrahamM376]

For the higher voltages I have a switch that bypasses the solar regulator so the panels are connected straight to the batteries. Not really recommended unless you're looking at a voltmeter connected straight to the battery terminals

I fitted the switch as the cheapo solar regulator from honest Johns cuts loads of power from the panels even when the voltage is below 14v.

Sounds a good idea to me, I have 2 x NASA BM1 so can monitor voltage OK. Looks like I'll be phoning Tayna later, bank 1 (245 ah - 2 x T125) went from 85% at midnight to 32% this morning with just the fridge and anchor light drawing around 7 amps.

 

[Mistroma]

I have to tweak the solar regulator to get to 14.7V as standard setting stops putting anything much in when T105s get to about 80%. I have also tweaked the shore power charger potentiometer to get 14.8V on boost but that makes float too high at 14.2V. It has increased voltages for all battery type settings by same amount so I use one with correct float voltage when in a marina. Boost setting is then too low but not a big deal as batteries are at 100% so only float required. It's a bit annoying but I'm not in a marina much during the summer and mostly only have to alter charger and solar regulator settings 4-5 times a year. It makes a huge difference to charging from solar or on generator, so well worth it at anchor.

 

[TQA]

How are you achieving the higher voltages? Neither my mains charger nor the solar will output so high and the alternator (no Sterling/Adverc) tails off at around 14.2 - 14.4v. Will have to go out today and buy a new hydrometer, mine seems to have grown legs and I think bank 1 is shot.

Both my Balmar alternator regulator and my solar Blue Sky 2000E have options to raise the charging voltage to 15.2 volts. I have always used the solar option as I hate running the engine and the cat REALLY hates me running the engine.

From the Blue Sky instructions

Equalization is essentially a controlled over charge and should only be performed on vented liquid electrolyte lead-acid batteries. Repeated
charge/discharge cycles can lead to an imbalance in the specific gravity and state of charge of individual battery cells. Equalization brings all battery cells up to the
same specific gravity, and eliminates electrolyte stratification by heavily gassing the battery. Periodic equalization per the battery manufacturers recommendations
will improve battery performance and life.
A minimum net charge current of approximately 3.5 amps per 100 amp-hours of battery capacity is required for the battery reach the equalization voltage.
Battery voltage setpoint during equalization will be the present charge voltage setpoint plus 1.2 volts or 15.2 volts for the factory calibrated charge voltage setpoint
of 14.0 volts. Note that with temperature compensation, the equalization voltage can be quite high at cool temperatures. The operator should disconnect equipment
that may not tolerate the high equalization voltage applied to the battery.
As shown in Figure 1, the blue equalization push-button is located on the 2000E panel. Equalization is enabled when the push-button is in, and the Charge
Status LED blinks rapidly. Always follow the battery manufacturers recommendations pertaining to equalization. Equalization is normally conducted approximately
once per month, with the battery held at the equalization voltage for a period of approximately two hours. It is best to equalize a battery that is already fully charged
so that the desired equalization voltage is reached quickly. Following the desired equalization period, the equalization cycle is terminated and normal charge
operation is resumed by again pressing the equalization push-button. The battery should then be topped off with distilled water per the battery manufacturers
recommendations.

 

[GrahamM376]

O.K Folks, went and bought new hydrometer (densimetro) yesterday and have just checked both banks. All cells except for one reading SG 1.24, one cell 1.23. Batteries sitting at 12.8 volts, approx 80% charged. That seems to have blown my idea that one bank is knackered and can't find any reason why it would discharge so far overnight. Any thoughts about SG values?

 

[GHA]

O.K Folks, went and bought new hydrometer (densimetro) yesterday and have just checked both banks. All cells except for one reading SG 1.24, one cell 1.23. Batteries sitting at 12.8 volts, approx 80% charged. That seems to have blown my idea that one bank is knackered and can't find any reason why it would discharge so far overnight. Any thoughts about SG values?

SG looks about right from the tables... my 2 x t105s earlier were 1.280 with one 1.270 & on 1.290 just short of fully charged. I never have complete trust in battery meters though.. maybe it had a grumpy meter moment?

 

[GrahamM376]

SG looks about right from the tables... my 2 x t105s earlier were 1.280 with one 1.270 & on 1.290 just short of fully charged. I never have complete trust in battery meters though.. maybe it had a grumpy meter moment?

Now there's a thought thanks, maybe one of the BM1s was having a senior moment or a dodgy contact to it which I may have moved this morning when checking batteries. That sounds a much cheaper solution