epoxying

[tyce]

hi just bought a new boat (used), it past the survey with flying colours but the surveyor recomended epoxy coating it as it was not done when new and now would be an ideal time as its been out of the water for a while, is this job possible to do myself ( i am quite handy) or is it a job for pros and does anybody have any idea of prices
the boat is a hunter horizon 272 , any tips much appreciated.
my thanks in advance

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[stephenh]

Go to wessex- resins web site and have a look around ( they sell West system products - so they are biased ?) and read Tony Staton-Bevan's book( he's a surveyor - and not biased ?) then check out Hugo de Plessis in the magazines generally.
Having done the above you will be very much the wiser and still ( like myself ) not sure which route to take.
I will follow this post with interest.....

good luck

Stephen

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[Mudplugger]

if you are capable of sanding off existing paint system to provide a good key, no problem.....have been extensive posts on the subject, so worth checking....covers all aspects, from masks to the number of coats, what scrapers to remove A/F, (Sandvik) and what brushes to apply with ( Jenny ). Tony W.

<hr width=100% size=1>Tony W.

 

[Paragon]

I did this last year on a Hurley 22. Like you I approached with much trepidation but would now quite happily (well almost) tackle it again. My problem was that the old gelcoat was breaking down with age and it was best to tackle as the hull was fairly dry so it was treated as though it had osmosis.

First the yard sand blasted the old gelcoat off, this was then thoroughly cleaned with a jet wash and filled with epoxy filler (International Interfill) to achieve a reasonably smooth surface.

Then, when weather permitted (reasonably warm day) I put several coats of epoxy on with a roller, did whole boat in about 3-4 hours. The epoxy comes in two colours so that you can alterate the colour between coats and not miss anywhere. I did a coat a day, this saves having to rub down the whole thing between coats, and am perfectly happy with the results. Final job was a coat of antifoul primer and she's sat there ready to be antifouled for this season, I may however paint the topsides whilst I'm in the mood!

I couldn't afford a yard job, it would have cost almost as much as the boat was worth, however I'm happy I did it myself as it's removed the non existant mystery about the whole process that I felt was there.

Good luck

Regards

John B

PS: Wear some really old clothes!

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[oldsaltoz]

G'day Tyce, only one more post and you will become a regular.

Treating the hull is not a huge project and can be done by anyone with a bit of common sense, a cautious approach and a bit of research.

You only need to work on the area below the water line, holding a sander upside down for a few hours is, to say the least, character building stuff.

I did my own 28 foot fixed keeler some years ago and sold her a couple of years later, she is still in this area and her new owner has had no problems at all; despite the fact she looked like the surface of the moon after all the crud was ground out. I have since done 3 others and assisted friends with theirs.

The biggest trap is contamination, when you sand, you drive material into the base, this can be a problem later if it reacts with the resin. I normally scrape off and much as possible, then use a 60 or 80 grit depending on how much is left, then a lot of 120 grit, changing frequently so material is not transferred.

Then a good wipe with lots of clean rags soaked in acetone; after all this, run some fresh water over the job and look for any water beading due to wax, oil, silicon and so on. This must be removed before anything else is done.

This is the best chance you will have to fair the hull, I mix some closed cell Micro Balloons or 'Q' cells to a sloppy toothpaste consistency and drag it over the hull with an old straight back hand saw (Handle and teeth removed) this conforms to the hull curve and reduces sanding to a minimum.

Most of the professional treatments now include at least one layer of glass to provide a thicker coating, most use a light roving designed for use with epoxy, very easy to apply, just make sure you have no pulled strands on the edges and ends prior to placing it on the pre-wetted area, they get caught up in the small rollers and pull, making a mess of an otherwise smooth run.

Once the glass is on, and cured, hose the lot down and rub it with a plastic kitchen scourer till the water no longer beads, this will remove the residue left by the curing process, with this removed, you can now give it all a light sand, just to remove the gloss.

Now you can apply the three coats of resin, best done with a mate who can handle a 2 inch brush, apply the resin from the waterline down to the centre of the boat in strips about 300 mm wide, and get you mate to just very lightly tip of the roller marks, this will give a mirror finish, you should be able to apply all 3 coats, wet on very tacky but not fully cured.
If you don't manage to then all on, no problem, just another wash, scourer and sand, another wash to make sure no beading, dry off and back into it.

When this has cured, wash, scour, sand, wash, check, dry and you can apply the next coat, I have used International Interprotect, sprayed on, but I'm sure if you speak with a few paint manufacturers they will be able to steer you in the right direction, you are looking for a coating that reduce water ingress at this stage.

With in place you can now paint the underside with a nice Polyurethane, two pot, I love the finish with International Interspray 900, but it's an industrial coating and may be a bit difficult to get hold off, look for long chain polymers in whatever polyurethane you select, there are some good ones out there.

That only leaves the antifouling, no advice on this other than to ask others in the area you plan to store the boat, to see what they use and how well it is working.


I use West System epoxy, no particular reason, other than I have never ever had a problem with it.

By the way, washing avoids a lot of harmful chemicals, you can clean a lot of your tools of epoxy with plain old vinegar, and if a steel roller does set rock hard, apply a flame and it will burn off clean. Last but by no means least, get yourself a good quality respirator, antifoul dust is very toxic, as is epoxy dust; ear and eye protection is also required, disposable rubber gloves also help.

Good luck with the project, now at least you have an idea what you are up for...

Andavagoodweekend.




<hr width=100% size=1> Old Salt Oz /forums/images/icons/cool.gif Growing old is unavoidable. However, growing up is still optional.

 

[tyce]

hi all and thanks to all for excellent advice as always, and a special g'day again to oldsaltz for taking time to pass on your vast expierience, i will have to start paying you soon, my grp repair went well but i never realised the work or mess involved but glad i have got it done and it is now up for sale so thanks for your help on that one oldsaltz
just got to get geared up for this job now, but it sounds easier than i first imagined, regards to all

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