Epoxy

[hairbox]

Hi my boat has a leak in the fore-peak which is annoying as my bedding keeps getting wet and being salt water deos not dry out to any degree therefore always feels slightly damp no matter how much I try to dry it out, only way to keep it dry is by washing the covers frequently.
I have sealed around the bulkhead using sikaflex from the outside and this has reduced the leaking considerably.
Anyway I have toyed with the idea of using an epoxy system to coat the inside of the fore-peak to seal it.
Do you think this is a good idea?




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[TheoSr]

Don't think so, is like wearing waterproof underwear. Structure will remain wet and rot eventually. Better keep looking for the leak and seal it.
Good luck searching!
Theo.

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[snowleopard]

you will probably spend all that money and find it's still leaking. best to spend some time tracking the source of the leak. a good tip for detecting small amounts of water is to dab around the suspect area with a coloured tissue, even a tiny droplet shows up well.

p.s. what's a 'moon monkey'???

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[ccscott49]

My thoughts exactly! You need to find the leak, not just stop it getting into the cabin.

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[oldsaltoz]

G'day Phil,

Just sprinkle some talc around the walls, a break will indicate the leak area.

Also, if you want a dry foam mattress that has had salt water on it, toss it into the swimming pool for a few days, then dry, this dilute the salt out and reduce the moisture.

Andavagoodweekend........



<hr width=100% size=1> Old Salt Oz /forums/images/icons/cool.gif Growing old is unavoidable. However, growing up is still optional.

 

[bassboy]

In a similar vein.....I have agreed to buy a 27' boat which has had a water leak from the top hatch over some time, the headlining is stained but water has apparently penetrated the wood between the grp layers on the foredeck. I have been told that the wood will rot over the next couple of years and the fore deck will probably colapse and that to remedy the problem the whole foredeck needs replacing!! In my ignorance i didnt realise that there even was wood between the grp but surely this would be marine ply? does this rot?

my query is will the wood ever dry our (the boat will be based in spain) and if not will it effect the grp? The boat is 9 years old and in every other respect very well cared for.

Any help greatly recieved

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[oldsaltoz]

G'day Bassboy, and welcome to the forum/s.

It would be unusual for the foredeck to be ply glassed over on a boat that size, are you sure the deck is ply?

Avagoodweekend........



<hr width=100% size=1> Old Salt Oz /forums/images/icons/cool.gif Growing old is unavoidable. However, growing up is still optional.

 

[bassboy]

Hi, well thats what i am told, i had just assumed it was solid glassfibre, but apparently not. The boat is an american small cruiser.....maybe they do it differently over there? My main concern is what will happen to the grp if it is wet from the inside...osmosis? i really want the boat but dont want a nightmare further down the road!! what do you think?

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[oldsaltoz]

G'day Bassboy,

If you are locked into a purchase and have not made any provision for the cost of the repair to be taken off the price negotiated then you stand to lose some of your investment. So, if this can not be reversed we should look at what needs to be done.

To answer your first questions: Chances are very good that the integrity of the existing fibreglass will be compromised.

However the ply will rot if has been wet in an enclosed space for a long period, even marine ply, the only thing that sets marine ply apart from other plywood sheeting is no knots or voids in the layers and a water resistant glue; construction ply also uses water resistant glue but will have knots and voids in the sheets other than the finish layers.

What to do: First you need to establish the extent, to this drill a row of holes around the hatch and check the material falling from the drill bit for moisture, do this from inside the boat and put a depth stopper on the drill bit to ensure you don't damage the underside of the deck.

Keep the holes about 4 inches apart to start with and keep drilling more rows if moisture is found. when all holes come up dry you will know the full extent of the area that has to be replaced.

What you do next will depend on how large the area is. If it is only relatively small, say the width of the hatch and 8 inches back then the glass should be removed from the inside, To make the a little easier I normally square up the area to be replaced and cut it out with a plunge router, set so that the underside of the deck layer is not damaged, then remove the wet ply, Then using the router again to leave a ledge of the original underside all around what was the wet area.

Clean the area with acetone and inspect it for water damage, if ok sand it. Now cut a new sheet to fit the section and cut this in half with a scarf joint in the middle, this is needed to get the two halves to fit onto the ledge, after dry fitting to make sure it will fit flush, resin coat the whole area with an epoxy resin, mix up some epoxy and 'micro-fibres' a bit on the runny side of toothpaste thickness, plaster this over the top of the ply and the edges, also put some inside the ledge we left, now push the sections into place, put a brace under it and wipe off all excess resin and filler with clean white rags, this will save a lot of sanding later, let it cure for 24 hours.

When cured, give it a light sand after grinding the outer edges flush to the new ply. Coat this in epoxy resin and lay up at least 2 layers of glass designed for epoxy resin and finish with a layer of rovings, the rovings will smooth the finish and ensure no ends are exposed. after this cured, wash it with fresh water till the water no longer forms beads, then dry it and give it light sand just to remove the shine and add 2 coats of epoxy resin to seal it. When this last layer has cured you can give it a light sand to remove the shine and she is ready to coat with whatever you have on the rest of the inside. Note even this will be under the liner, it should be coated, just paint will do.

The above will give you some idea as to why fibreglass repairs can be expensive.

You might like to start a new thread on this to get better exposure and perhaps some other advice, appending to an old thread like this will not be read by many as your item was added last so many will not return to the old heading/title.

Meantime- - - - - - - - - - Avagoodweekend.......




<hr width=100% size=1> Old Salt Oz /forums/images/icons/cool.gif Growing old is unavoidable. However, growing up is still optional.

 

[bassboy]

Thanks oldsaltoz

I think youve covered it.....but just so i'm clear on it...i dont need to touch the outside of the deck just cut out and replace from the inside? which means not touching the finished gel coat on the outside? if that is the case i feel much happier as the repair will be covered by the headlining and hopefully nobody will be the wiser....except you and me!!

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[oldsaltoz]

Yes all done from inside, the whole idea is to preserve the deck.......

<hr width=100% size=1> Old Salt Oz /forums/images/icons/cool.gif Growing old is unavoidable. However, growing up is still optional.

 

[ex-Gladys]

...NB the wood could well be endgrain balsa - common on decks, and used like foam is now in a 3 layer sandwich laminate....

<hr width=100% size=1>Larry Botheras

Anderson 26 "Amber"

 

[bassboy]

Hi Larry, if it is balsa does that change anything? my only recollection of balsa wood is from schooldays and model aircraft.....very light but not very strong!

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