Epoxy Coating

wooslehunter

wooslehunter

Well-Known Member
Joined
31 Oct 2002
Messages
1,960
Location
Hants, UK
Visit site
I've used epoxy to coat bare wood before but never managed to make a nice job of it. That's not mattered in the past.

This time I want to make a good job as I've just made some new companionway boards & they will be on view.

I'm using West 105 resin & 205 hardener. The mixture seems too stiff to apply well with a brush & very difficult to tip off.

Am I using the wrong stuff or is there a better way of applying it?

Thanks,

Dave
 
The magic is warmth. Warm up your resin in a bath of warm water, and warm up the wood as well.
Put on a coat to seal the wood and wet and dry to about 400 grit. Use good brush to let the next coat float on the sealed wood.
Warmth and no dust should get you a mirror finish, and if it dosent then wet and dry again.
Have fun. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
I'm making washboards at the moment and I know what you mean; it's very difficult to get a decent finish. However, as Epoxy suffers from UV exposure I am finishing the boards with 2 pack polyurethane to get a decent finish.

Epoxy as first coats to give waterproofing, followed by polyurethane to give UV protection and a good gloss.
 
I'm the world's biggest fan of epoxy coating for wood! SP System do a coating system (SP320 I think). Goes on like varnish, looks like varnish...absolutely no problems getting a good finish. My biggest gripe is the need to then put "inferior" UV resistant varnish on top of the epoxy...after a few years in the sun it's all flaking off. I spoke with SP about this last year at the Southampton Boat Show and asked what would happen if I didn't coat it? My wood is dark so not worried too much about yellowing. SP said just put an extra coat of epoxy as a sacrificial. Unless the washboards see a lot of sun I wouldn't worry about it.
 
Too late. I've done it now!
I used ordinary Epoxy because it was what I had. It was a pig to apply. Only by flatting it back was I able to get a decent finish in readiness for the polyurethane.
It's given me a very good finish. Time will tell how long it lasts!

Next time (if there is a next time) I'll have to try the right grade of epoxy!
 
You beat me to it!! Yes, many peeps don't realise that you have to protect the epoxy from UV degradation.

Always seems to me to be a waste of effort and you might as well use several coats of high quality varnish in the first place!
 
Tend to agree with Jerryat. Based on experience when dinghy sailing a traditional yacht varnish gave best overall performance. Not as tough as polyurethane but didn't peel in layers, damage could be repaired as a patch and that saved loads of time each spring.
 
for washboards or similar parts tha are continually being bumped do you want a hard protection system? Some of the woodstains for window frames allow the wood to breath?? and last several years, the protection soaks into the wood so the odd bump isn't the end of the world. At present I'm using teak oil, clean in spring with soapy water and a scrubbing brush (work the same as the special cleaners) then two or three coats teak oil. Time spread over several days but no more than 2 hours total.
 
Cobblers. All of you. Put the epoxy on with a spatula, or bit of milk bottle carton cut into a blade or old credit card or whatever. Smooth it around until you get an even coating. Let it cure. Flat it with wet'n'dry (about 240 grade) and then varnish with a tun-oil based varnish. 2 or 3 coats. Lovely.
Just like this................

HeronVarnish01.jpg
 
[ QUOTE ]
I'm the world's biggest fan of epoxy coating for wood! SP System do a coating system (SP320 I think). Goes on like varnish, looks like varnish...absolutely no problems getting a good finish. My biggest gripe is the need to then put "inferior" UV resistant varnish on top of the epoxy...after a few years in the sun it's all flaking off. I spoke with SP about this last year at the Southampton Boat Show and asked what would happen if I didn't coat it? My wood is dark so not worried too much about yellowing. SP said just put an extra coat of epoxy as a sacrificial. Unless the washboards see a lot of sun I wouldn't worry about it.

[/ QUOTE ]

I once had a friend who mtook 3 years to build a Wharram 40 footer using ply / epoxy. In the going, he spilt some catalysed epoxy outside the polytunnel. Took less than three years to first go sherry coloured and then to denature totally and just flake off. It really is very UV sensitive.

The West 2 pack poly varnish is really good stuff, either used on top of epoxy to protect it, or used on its own.
 
Thanks all. I tried warmth but I guess the key is to get the wood warm. If I get the resin warm & use the normal mix for resin:hardner it goes off very fast and gets very hot.

I'll try the milk carton trick & then coat with a varnish for UV protection.
 
Whilst building a cedar strip dinghy, I went on a course with West specifically to learn how to do do this. As mentioned above key is temperature. You need to be working at a temperature where it is pleasant to be in a T shirt. The wood and the epoxy should be at this temperature for a couple of days before you start. Also avoid rainy days.
Don't really agree with 400grit. Fine for varnish but too flat for epoxy. 240 would be better for the wood. Personally prefer to put the epoxy on with a roller, but a brush is OK. Dont apply too thick, two or three coats brushed out is better; apply wet on wet. The epoxy will then need sanding. Go up to 400grit for a top finish but be careful with orbital sanders as you can easily leave circular marks. Then you must apply a varnish - no epoxy will have as good a UV resistance as a varnish. You can use 1 pot for ease of application but for maximum durability and finish a 2 pot is better. Minimum of 3 coats to protect the epoxy
Sorry I don't have a photo of mine but applied as above with 2 pot varnish finish I couldn't believe how good it looked.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top