Engine Survey in Dartmouth Volvo 2003

TwinRudders

TwinRudders

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Hi - in the process of buying a second hand yacht with a Volvo 2003 engine circa 1992. Lying in Dartmouth

Looking for a marine engineer to take a look as part of the survey - any suggestions please?

Also - any things to look out for with these engines? I know there was a modification that you were supposed to do with the geabox reduction or something?

Vendor sems a little hazy about when it was serviced last - no documentation for anything - makes me a little suspicious as to its integrity but I may be paranoid...

Cheers,
J
 
A) You may be right to be paranoid. I would keep receipts even if I were servicing the engine myself. Ask him if he knows where the engine anode is.

B) The gearbox mod is critical. It may have been done, but if the current owner does not know I would be careful and check it! (And be a bit suspicious, this mod has been well publicised). The cost is over £250, more if you get an engineer to do it. If you want more info on this I have instructions on how to deal with it, if you PM me your email address.

Also the exhaust elbow is prone to silt up, causing overheating.

see http://www.moa.myzen.co.uk/discus/messages/5/7159.html

Tonto marine at Galmpton are good engineers http://www.tontomarine.co.uk/ they are not Volvo agents, but they have Volvo experience. There is a Volvo dealer at Galmpton, and maybe in Dartmouth.

Keith
 
Darthaven Marine are very good engineers especially if you use an engineer there called Rob. (darthaven.co.uk). Used them regularly over the years, usually for Yanmar engines. Fairly sure they also deal with Volvo. Based opposite Dartmouth in Kingswear Marina.
 
The 2000 series engines experienced trouble with the drive spline between the engine and gearbox and this should be changed out for a replacement that has the new type drive plate .

If the splines are bad the volvo fix is around 800 punts whilst an alternat hex drive fix is available from DB MArine for around 450 Punts.

If this has not been done then make an allowance in the offer.

If the yacht you are looking at has a saildrive then according to my Volvo expert in Glasgow you have no concerns. It would appear that the antivibration propeller drive on saildrives also extends its protection back to the gearbox drive and this sort of failure on 2002 type engines is almost unknown when connected to saildrives.

If the boat has a saildrive remember that the diaphragm needs to be changed every 7 years at a cost of around 1000 punts....also put this into your equation.
 
I would add a couple of other things:

1.) Oil or water leakage from the seawater pump driveshaft - easy to fix though
2.) Oil leak - apparently from the bell housing could either be the crank shaft oil seal or another under a plate for the cam shaft for the injectors. - Not impossible job but awkward

I have a 23 year old 2003 and for peace of mind because of splines and 2.) above I'm putting in a 28hp beta marine.
 
If your engine serial number is before 2300059128, which it almost certainly is ,being 1992 vintage then the splines need to be modified (if they have not been done already). After this serial No. Volvo apparently did a mod.which should have sorted the prob. For more info. Go to the Westerly website which gives all the details.
 
[ QUOTE ]
For more info. Go to the Westerly website which gives all the details.

[/ QUOTE ]Sadly, the technical info on the WOA site is only available to members. However, there's a copy of the WOA splines article here on the Marisco site.
 
The 2003 is a marine engine as opposed to a converted vehicle one - its an old design so its reasonably tough but a bit smokey and noisy. At 16 years old its coming toward the end of its life depending on how it was used and maintained. And given the price of Volvo parts it probably isnt economic to rebuild unless you do a DIY job.

people flap about the gearbox splines and they can fail totally. But they have lasted for that 16 years so personally I would be inclined to keep the money in my pocket towards an eventual replacement. Thats what I'm doing with my 2003.

There'slittle that an engineer can do that you cant do. He cant do a compression test because the injectors are a cow to get out and you risk having to replace a sleeve (a head off job) if you do remove one. He could test oil pressure I suppose but when it comes to looking for emulsified oil or oil leaks or excess smoke, you can do just as good a job. So again I would save the cost toward a replace.

Suggest you check for yourself:
does it start quickly
after warming up (when it will smoke by design) does it smoke badly under load
is the oil milky.
are there leaks from roun d the injectors, the bellhousing, the fuel pump and pipes
when warm and at idle does the oil light come on - it shouldnt
when stopped but with the leccy on, does the oil light come on - it should
any undue loud knocks.

no doubt there are things that I have forgotten and others will add, but be realistic. you are buying a boat with an engine towards the end of its life - dont expect the engine to be like new.
 
Ta PVB I knew there was another article somewhere.

Has anyone had probs. with splines on an engine post ---59128? has the Volvo mod. been 100% effective?
 
I had the "mod" done last year, unfortunately the engine had to come out to remove the gear box. It's a totally different connection, and I think it will now last as long or maybe outlive the engine. It cost in the region of £900. As my engine has low hours and runs well I hope I have made the right descision. In any case the splines were showing signs of wear.
 
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