Engine Servicing/Winterisation Part 2

[Ian_Rob]

Following on from my post a week or so ago regarding servicing costs for a Volvo D1 30B.

I am persuaded to undertake the work myself and have now obtained and read the Workshop Manual as suggested.Whilst this is more explicit than the Operators Manual supplied with the engine there are a few points on which I am not entirely clear. I live a long way from where the boat is kept so it is not that easy to check these points out.

Oil Removal: The Workshop Manual says that the engine oil is sucked out via the dip-stick pipe but I understand that on the D1-30B that there is actually a dedicated pipe with a rubber bung in the end for this purpose. Does anybody know if a 6mm oil extractor pipe will fit this?

Fuel System: When renewing the pre-filter am I right in assuming that it will be sufficient to just bleed the low pressure side of the fuel system? Articles I have seen seem to suggest that it will not be necessary [at least on the on the Volvo D1-30] to bleed the injectors?

Seawater System:

The approved dealers quote included for 10 litres of Flushing Liquid.

To clean the the system, the service manual says that the engine is run at fast idle ‘for a few minutes’ with the disconnected free end of the intake hose in a bucket of fresh water + presumably the flushing liquid? I don't know what the though-put on the raw water side is but I guess it is going to be necessary to stop and fill up the bucket quite a few times to properly flush the system? I don’t think that the engine can be started and stopped from the engine compartment so I assume this is going to be a 2-man job?

When the system is clean the bucket is filled with a 50/50 mix of Glycol and water and the system filled-up with the mixture leaving it throughout the laying-up period. I assume that simply stopping the engine will leave the system sufficiently filled to protect it until the engine is run again in the spring?

Fresh Water Cooling System:

I want to drain this down this year, flush out the system and replace the coolant.

Diagrams vaguely show a drain nipple/hose connection point below the Heat Exchanger. It isn’t entirely clear but I assume this can be simply opened with a spanner with a hose connected?

Is it sufficient to just flush out with with a hose connected to cold water tap or should I be using flushing liquid as well [and if so, how]?

The manual says that coolant must be mixed 40/60 with pure water [distilled or de-ionised] but in reality do people really use anything other than tap water?

Thanks

 

[vyv_cox]

Seawater System:

The approved dealers quote included for 10 litres of Flushing Liquid.

To clean the the system, the service manual says that the engine is run at fast idle ‘for a few minutes’ with the disconnected free end of the intake hose in a bucket of fresh water + presumably the flushing liquid? I don't know what the though-put on the raw water side is but I guess it is going to be necessary to stop and fill up the bucket quite a few times to properly flush the system? I don’t think that the engine can be started and stopped from the engine compartment so I assume this is going to be a 2-man job?

When the system is clean the bucket is filled with a 50/50 mix of Glycol and water and the system filled-up with the mixture leaving it throughout the laying-up period. I assume that simply stopping the engine will leave the system sufficiently filled to protect it until the engine is run again in the spring?

I have no experience of your engine so will leave the specific answers to others. When flushing through with fresh water simply leave a hosepipe running into the bucket. I used to do this in the cockpit but since fitting a Vetus strainer I run the hosepipe directly into that while the engine is running. Using a pistol-grip type of fitting it's easy to keep coolant flowing for the couple of minutes required.

The need for a flushing fluid is questionable but perhaps depends on the engine design. In mine the only metallic component is the stainless steel heat exchanger, everything else being rubber. I see no need to flush that, assuming cooling is normally good.

Again, the need for glycol in the seawater side presumably depends upon the metals in the circuit and the effectiveness of engine draining, If by 'glycol' it means commercial antifreeze, then presumably its corrosion inhibition properties are being used. I prefer to drain the system completely to avoid the possibility of freezing.

Stopping the engine will normally leave the system from the pump to the injection elbow into the manifold full of coolant, unless there is a slope that will allow it to run out. Pump impellers leak back slowly (or sometimes quickly) so the inlet seacock needs to be closed.

 

[johnalison]

I imagine the oil extractor is the same as on my 2030, which has a short pipe with a rubber stopper. I don't know the exact size, only that the hose I used to use fits fine, though it's a bit of a fiddle with my installation due to lack of room and I remove the oil filter first for access. One tip, though - don't drop the rubber cap or you may have to fish it out from somewhere nasty.

I also imagine the fuel system is similar. I bleed mine above the fuel filter only and it always starts on the button after that. The lift pump only works when the yellow mark on the fanbelt roller is aligned with the one the case nearby

 

[Ruffles]

Fuel System: When renewing the pre-filter am I right in assuming that it will be sufficient to just bleed the low pressure side of the fuel system? Articles I have seen seem to suggest that it will not be necessary [at least on the on the Volvo D1-30] to bleed the injectors?

I close the fuel cock at the tank and pull the stop lever on the engine. (No idea if the latter makes any difference!) The idea being to keep the pipes full of diesel. I then prime both filters to the brim with carefully filtered diesel (I use coffee filters!). This way I never have to bleed anything. The engine has never even hesitated since I started this technique so it seems to work. I would do this at the start of the season though.

I find I can flush the raw water system without running the engine by disconnecting the syphon break and the exhaust hose and pouring antifreeze into the pipes. Depends how yours is plumbed.

 

[PeterGibbs]

A. a few comments I hope will help.

PWG
__________________________________

Following on from my post a week or so ago regarding servicing costs for a Volvo D1 30B.

I am persuaded to undertake the work myself and have now obtained and read the Workshop Manual as suggested.Whilst this is more explicit than the Operators Manual supplied with the engine there are a few points on which I am not entirely clear. I live a long way from where the boat is kept so it is not that easy to check these points out.

Oil Removal: The Workshop Manual says that the engine oil is sucked out via the dip-stick pipe but I understand that on the D1-30B that there is actually a dedicated pipe with a rubber bung in the end for this purpose. Does anybody know if a 6mm oil extractor pipe will fit this?
__________________________________
A. Almost for certain. You can drop in a half litre of fresh oil to flush through when you remove the oil filter and replace. You will warm the engine up first to make oil extraction easier.
____________________________________
Fuel System: When renewing the pre-filter am I right in assuming that it will be sufficient to just bleed the low pressure side of the fuel system? Articles I have seen seem to suggest that it will not be necessary [at least on the on the Volvo D1-30] to bleed the injectors?
_______________________________
A. Renew all fuel filters with the fuel shut off, then turn on fuel and draw fresh fuel through as directed. There is no need to prime to injector level.
_________________________________
Seawater System:

The approved dealers quote included for 10 litres of Flushing Liquid.

To clean the the system, the service manual says that the engine is run at fast idle ‘for a few minutes’ with the disconnected free end of the intake hose in a bucket of fresh water + presumably the flushing liquid? I don't know what the though-put on the raw water side is but I guess it is going to be necessary to stop and fill up the bucket quite a few times to properly flush the system? I don’t think that the engine can be started and stopped from the engine compartment so I assume this is going to be a 2-man job?
__________________________________
A. use a source of fresh water added (for ease) to the water strainer from buckets / hose with the motor running until you feel the system has been flushed out. 20 litres or so will suffice. Stop engine. No damage will result from this process.
_________________________________________
When the system is clean the bucket is filled with a 50/50 mix of Glycol and water and the system filled-up with the mixture leaving it throughout the laying-up period. I assume that simply stopping the engine will leave the system sufficiently filled to protect it until the engine is run again in the spring?
_______________________________
A. Prepare a couple of containers with the antifreeze mix as you describe. Start engine and load into the water strainer. Before the mix level disappears from the strainer stop the engine and leave system filled. That's it for the winter.
_______________________________________
Fresh Water Cooling System:
I want to drain this down this year, flush out the system and replace the coolant.

Diagrams vaguely show a drain nipple/hose connection point below the Heat Exchanger. It isn’t entirely clear but I assume this can be simply opened with a spanner with a hose connected?
____________________________
A. this precedes all the above, of course. Run the engine for a few mins to circulate the fluid. If the boat is already out of the water do not start engine, just open the drainer cock with a piece of hoze attached and drain off all fluid into a bowl or suitable chopped down oil can base. Pour in fresh water and repeat if you wish. Flushing fluid not necessary.

Tighten drainage point and fill from the top tank with new 50-50 mix until topped up. Ordinary water just fine.
____________________________________
Is it sufficient to just flush out with with a hose connected to cold water tap or should I be using flushing liquid as well [and if so, how]?

The manual says that coolant must be mixed 40/60 with pure water [distilled or de-ionised] but in reality do people really use anything other than tap water?

Thanks

 

[orion50]

Well done Peter Gibbs on an excellent well written reply.

 

[Ian_Rob]

THANKS everybody for the really helpful replies.

 

[KREW2]

I don't know about your engine. I have to drain down the block first, then remove the thermostat before filling with antifreeze.