Viking
Well-Known Member
I'm thanking of replacing my Wallas heater (paraffin warm air ducted system) for a Eberspacher system. Has anyone any installation tips?
Eberspacher installation- any tips?
- Thread starter Viking
- Start date
pvb
Well-Known Member
RTFM...
Follow the installation instructions to the letter - everything you need to know is in this guide. Pay special attention to the electrical feed. Use an anti-vibration mount for the fuel pump, to cut the clicking noise. Include a duct silencer, it will make the installation almost silent.
Follow the installation instructions to the letter - everything you need to know is in this guide. Pay special attention to the electrical feed. Use an anti-vibration mount for the fuel pump, to cut the clicking noise. Include a duct silencer, it will make the installation almost silent.
ThereAndBack
Well-Known Member
Eberspacher heaters get a bit of bad press on this forum but I fitted one earlier in the year and it has been excellent.
I subsequently helped a friend fit one to his boat and again, no problems and he is very pleased with it.
Don't buy bigger than you need. Mine is a 2.2 KW one with three outlets and it is easily sufficient for my 37 footer.
If you can, you should try to insulate the ducting to avoid heat loss into lockers, etc. Adhesive insulation, as used in air-conditioning systems, seems best for this.
I bought mine from eBay from a guy called Douglas Macintosh and he was very helpful, even extended the wiring loom to match my boat. He fits them to boats for a living.
Alan
I subsequently helped a friend fit one to his boat and again, no problems and he is very pleased with it.
Don't buy bigger than you need. Mine is a 2.2 KW one with three outlets and it is easily sufficient for my 37 footer.
If you can, you should try to insulate the ducting to avoid heat loss into lockers, etc. Adhesive insulation, as used in air-conditioning systems, seems best for this.
I bought mine from eBay from a guy called Douglas Macintosh and he was very helpful, even extended the wiring loom to match my boat. He fits them to boats for a living.
Alan
johnphilip
Well-Known Member
Last year fitted a Webasto 2kw to our 33ft. Brilliant. Took one weekend with heat by Sunday dinnertime. Plenty powerful enough and supposedly less battery draw than its rival.
Apart from the bad noises often heard here on Ebersplutters one big advantage with the limited space on our boat is that the ducting is slightly smaller than the Eber, making the routing a lot easier.
Only slight snag was the wiring loom length slightly short for our boat so control was not fitted in ideal position .
In fairness to Eber we never had any trouble with one fitted to our last boat. (perhaps because we never serviced it).
As stated above the lagging is essential. We get far more useful heat in the cabin with this 2kw blower than we did from the unlagged pipes on the 3.5kw on the old Fulmar
QuayWest did us a good deal with a discounted kit and a further 5% for a first order.
Apart from the bad noises often heard here on Ebersplutters one big advantage with the limited space on our boat is that the ducting is slightly smaller than the Eber, making the routing a lot easier.
Only slight snag was the wiring loom length slightly short for our boat so control was not fitted in ideal position .
In fairness to Eber we never had any trouble with one fitted to our last boat. (perhaps because we never serviced it).
As stated above the lagging is essential. We get far more useful heat in the cabin with this 2kw blower than we did from the unlagged pipes on the 3.5kw on the old Fulmar
QuayWest did us a good deal with a discounted kit and a further 5% for a first order.
Cloven
Well-Known Member
The most important part is planning - where to fit the heater unit, ducting runs etc. I spent a lot of time planning the installation and then the fitting went without a hitch in about a day.
temptress
Well-Known Member
IMO don't. Get something other than an Eberspacher. I ( and several other boat owners I know) have had problems with reliability, servicing, lack of any customer care at all and disinterested dealers. (I even took my boat 150 miles to get it serviced to see if the problem was the dealer or Ebber themselves!
I'm currently replacing my 3 year old Eber with another make as yet again it is not working This is my 3rd Ebber I should have known better. each time I was promised 'we used to have problems but it's better now...... That said the first one (10 years ago) was great ,the second one not soo good abd the dealer system started to go down hill and I regret buying this one at all. It has NEVER worked (from New) properly despite being professionally installed (Kreuger), reinstalled (Kruger & felton), serviced (Kruger, Felton, walton Marine) , trouble shot (Kruger), sent back to Ebber and the re-installed again (kruger)!
I would recommend anybody to stay clear of them. IMO they don't understand the marine industry, have a poor service history, their products are almost impossable fault detect and have proven to be unreliable with a don't care attitude.
I'm currently replacing my 3 year old Eber with another make as yet again it is not working This is my 3rd Ebber I should have known better. each time I was promised 'we used to have problems but it's better now...... That said the first one (10 years ago) was great ,the second one not soo good abd the dealer system started to go down hill and I regret buying this one at all. It has NEVER worked (from New) properly despite being professionally installed (Kreuger), reinstalled (Kruger & felton), serviced (Kruger, Felton, walton Marine) , trouble shot (Kruger), sent back to Ebber and the re-installed again (kruger)!
I would recommend anybody to stay clear of them. IMO they don't understand the marine industry, have a poor service history, their products are almost impossable fault detect and have proven to be unreliable with a don't care attitude.
JerryHawkins
Well-Known Member
Personally I am happy with my Eberspacher. I wouldn't be happy if I had to pay to get it serviced or repaired! They need regular attention (mainly just de-coking and replacing glow pin screens and fuel filters) but that's it. The later models with the later timer-modulators that have built-in diagnostics make fault diagnosis very easy.
We are 50% live-aboard and I reckon on having to do a full strip-down/ de-coke/screen/filter replacement every 6-8 months or when it begins not starting first time. DIY, this is not expensive to do, once you have the tools. For the Airtronic the only "special" tools is the glow pin spanner (you can modify a simple box spanner) which comes free with a new glow pin. For the Hydronic (which we now have) you need two "special" AMP tools to allow you to disconnect thye wires from the multi-plug connectors. These are expensive at £60 or so each, but look how much you'll pay for an Eber agent to service it for you!
Cheers,
Jerry
We are 50% live-aboard and I reckon on having to do a full strip-down/ de-coke/screen/filter replacement every 6-8 months or when it begins not starting first time. DIY, this is not expensive to do, once you have the tools. For the Airtronic the only "special" tools is the glow pin spanner (you can modify a simple box spanner) which comes free with a new glow pin. For the Hydronic (which we now have) you need two "special" AMP tools to allow you to disconnect thye wires from the multi-plug connectors. These are expensive at £60 or so each, but look how much you'll pay for an Eber agent to service it for you!
Cheers,
Jerry
Talbot
Well-Known Member
I assume you will be re-using the heating duct.
Otherwise - purchase decent bi-metallic hole saws, not the cheapy stuff from B&Q
If you are using the main fuel tank (as I do) I pre-filter all my fuel using a smart filter (available from Force 4) and thus reduce the risk of particles or water in the fuel tank.
If they are still using the same crap fuse box that they supplied me, throw it away and get a decent replacement that does not pull out through the bottom of the installation if a bit of tension is applied to the wires - thus disconnecting the wire but looking as if it is perfectly ok.
Otherwise - purchase decent bi-metallic hole saws, not the cheapy stuff from B&Q
If you are using the main fuel tank (as I do) I pre-filter all my fuel using a smart filter (available from Force 4) and thus reduce the risk of particles or water in the fuel tank.
If they are still using the same crap fuse box that they supplied me, throw it away and get a decent replacement that does not pull out through the bottom of the installation if a bit of tension is applied to the wires - thus disconnecting the wire but looking as if it is perfectly ok.
