Eberspacher help

[toad]

I have a Eberspacher D2 in my van that has been playing up for the last two winters, It will start properly get up to full heat then after six minuets it will start slowing down in stages till it is just blows a slow cold air flow. This has a seven day timer with a diagnostic function but no codes present. There appears to be plenty of fuel although I have no way of measuring it, the combustion exhaust and air inlet are clear as is all the ducting( I disconnected the ducting to make sure). Looking at the manual on line I am thinking along the lines of ether the overheat/flame sensor or the inlet air sensor. The only problem is I cannot find the inlet air sensor and was wondering if the overheat/flame sensor is combined with inlet temp sensor. I did try to test the resistance of the overheat/ flame sensor but had no divisive results but that might be me. Can any experts confirm my diagnosis and confirm that the sensors are combined or not.
Its getting cold, I am getting old and I don't want another winter with no heat in the back of the van.

 

[pcatterall]

Yes they are combined.
When I test these I have found them either correct ( resistance) or bust ( open circuit )
Your heater is certainly doing what it should re starting and it does suggest that the sensor is u/s. I would expect to see a code though. It could, of course be overheating due, say to a blocked duct but you should still get an error code.

 

[Jabamusic]

The 6 minute bit sounds familiar to me. I found that when I test ran my eber over the summer (ie when there was actually some heat about), the eber quit after 6-7 minutes and went into shut-down routine. Once the cold weather arrived, it ran perfectly once again..............so as suggested above it would seem that the sensor is the issue with yours, either it is faulty or is getting too hot and causing the shutdown?

ps I'm no expert, just an occasional frustrated fan of the things.

Good luck and hope this helps in some way

 

[David2452]

Classic flame sensor issue, but do not discount ECU either. The sensor may be reporting a resistance that signifies no flame established even if there is one and the ECU shuts off the pump, the ECU can do the same thing. One other possibility is that the glowpin is coked sufficiently that although it can maintain a flame when energised it is so coked that it can not maintain enough exposed latent heated surfice area to maintain the flame. Also check that the sensor contact with the exchanger is free of any impediment, even to the extent of using a little heat sink compound.

 

[MarcJ]

I had a few intermittent problems with mine when I first installed it. It turned out to be an air lock in the fuel line, if you can get at it, check to see that fuel is getting into the unit. Mine would burn the fuel one side of the bubble and then cut out.
Great units btw!

 

[toad]

Thanks for the replies, I think the way to go is replace the flame sensor and check the glow plug whilst it is on the bench. £50ish for a sensor is worth a punt but I suspect a new ecu is uneconomic. Thinking about it when I checked with a multi meter it was properly open circuit which is why I had no reading.