Eberspacher D4L heater replacement

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1corinthian

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My recently purchased LM32 is fitted with a non running D4L ( 100mm dia warm air outlet) of 1979 vintage for which parts are no longer available . I am considering replacing it with an Airtronic D4 which can be fitted with a 90mm outlet and then an adaptor to fit the existing ducting . I would be very interested to hear if anyone has done something similar . The D4 power output is 4Kw against the D4L 4.3Kw .
 
Not really answering your question I'm afraid, but have you checked that the ducting is worth keeping? I replaced a 1987 Eber and ducting earlier this year - the ducting was damaged in numerous places which meant that even if the Eber had been working it would have made a good job of heating various lockers and other inaccessible spaces. If the ducting needs replacing it might open up a number of different solutions.

Neil
 
Also not answering your question (sorry!) but I thoroughly recommend insulating the ducting wherever you possibly can - heat the living spaces not the lockers/bilges that the ducting passes through! Eberspacher make a purpose built product but expensive, I've read of others using a b&q alternative.
 
I can't see any problem with feeding the D4's output into your existing 100mm ducting provided the latter is in sound condition and well-lagged as per previous posts. I have the Airtronic D4 in my 31 footer and it heats it quite adequately.
 
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From what I understand, no balancing is really required i.e. between input and output (within reasonable parameters), so i see no reason to be worried about a small alteration in the size of the ducting. Surely the increase in the effectiveness of the new heater will cope with the slightly larger diameter ducting which it has to blow through.

That said, if the 15 year old + ducting I found on my boat (now replaced) is anything to go by, if I was you I would change it for the pukka stuff whilst you are at it. It should be easier as it is smaller and you can use the existing runs so don't have to do all the head scratching working out where to run it etc.................Just my thoughts
 
Balancing the registers (outlets) makes a huge difference to warm up times and no cold spots. Experiment with masking tape, then pull off the duct and muffle accordingly. Use the plastic backed foil for insulation, It's fire proof. No need to pay through the nose for the "marine" stuff.

As for which heater unit? My Mikuni has given good service for the past 5 years, with 3 of those as a liveaboard. The old ebersplutter sold for a few drinking tokens.
 
Insulation is a must to get the heat where you want it.

Having had several Ebers, Webasto, Bahco, Wallas plus one Mikuni I tend to agree - provided parts and service is available in your area. Mikuni seem to last longer, run more slient and in all demand less service.

Regardless of brand I'd check manufacturer recommendations against ducting size/length and number of vents/bends.

You need some sort of ventilation and 4kW isn't a lot for a 32' so consider recirculating (partially?) against taking only fresh air. Especially if recirc, vents between cabins (preferably situated low) help getting the heat where you want it.
 
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I replaced a D3l with a new D4 earlier this year. My (good) existing ducting is 75mm to three outlets and 50mm to the furthest two (five in total). I was aboard in the snow in minus temperatures earlier this year and was toastie :D. We have a wheelhouse so the heat tends to migrate up to there but I found that after about an hour I can close off the wheelhouse outlet completely concentrating the output to the other four outlets. 33' boat by the way.
 
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