Eberspacher Controler problem

[jimfin]

Hi Guys. I have just fitted a D2 to our boat. It has a 701 10 003 controller with no diagnostic.
I can turn the unit on and it fires up and blows warm air.
The problem is that I cannot increase the heat with the controler or get the timer to work. Do these controllers give problems? Or is it something else!!!!

Jim

 

[David2452]

Hi Guys. I have just fitted a D2 to our boat. It has a 701 10 003 controller with no diagnostic.
I can turn the unit on and it fires up and blows warm air.
The problem is that I cannot increase the heat with the controler or get the timer to work. Do these controllers give problems? Or is it something else!!!!

Jim

Strange, the 701 10 003 (with the white plug) should have diagnostics, does the unit have an internal or an external temperature sensor? Controllers do fail but don't assume, are the bars increasing on the display when you ramp it up?

Try this: With the heater switched on, press and hold the flame symbol key until the display shows “dAtA”. Release key and display then shows “AF--” and alternatively displays the current fault code. Each press up arrow of the key will scroll through the last 5 previously stored fault codes.

 

[Colvic Watson]

I have the same controller David, it's a pain because it only works in temp mode and what I really want to do is control the output of the heater myself. Its sensor is in the galley so it may be 20 degrees there but cold in the forecabin, can you switch it in and out of temp control and get the ramp up bars you mention so I can set it say at 25% output regardless of the cabin temperature?

Sorry to the OP for thread drift :redface-new:

 

[David2452]

You could probably do it with an appropriate resistor but I would have thought it would be better to reposition the temperature sensor to a more suitable site and or balance the duct outlets to get more heat to the fore cabin.

 

[jimfin]

Strange, the 701 10 003 (with the white plug) should have diagnostics, does the unit have an internal or an external temperature sensor? Controllers do fail but don't assume, are the bars increasing on the display when you ramp it up?

Try this: With the heater switched on, press and hold the flame symbol key until the display shows “dAtA”. Release key and display then shows “AF--” and alternatively displays the current fault code. Each press up arrow of the key will scroll through the last 5 previously stored fault codes.

The unit was bought on ebay. It came out of some sort of a van so some of the wiring has Ford labelling. The controller is the one with the white eberspacher logo on it, also it only has 4 wires.
Found this link helpful http://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/Eberspacher_Control_1.html

The bars do no increase when I press the increase button.

 

[Colvic Watson]

You could probably do it with an appropriate resistor but I would have thought it would be better to reposition the temperature sensor to a more suitable site and or balance the duct outlets to get more heat to the fore cabin.

I may just order one that has the bars so I can increase or decrease the power output - what type is that?

 

[David2452]

The bars only indicate the set temperature so if your probe is incorrectly sited it will not help as in order to get your fore cabin up to temperature the area around the probe would be a sauna, do you have an outlet in the fore cabin?

 

[Colvic Watson]

Yes, one in each and one main one in the saloon/wheelhouse. If we set the temp to say 20 degrees, then when it gets to about 22 it shuts off but we want it to sit there running at about 1.5kw keeping the chill off. At the moment we are constantly having to change the temp setting. If we put it on 25 degrees it blasts out heat. On a spring or autumn day it's nice to have some gentle heat, our previous boat had this sort of control and it made it very simple. Resitting the sensor isn't an option and the outputs are nicely balanced if I could get the thing to sit at about 30% output, with occasional bursts of heat as required and to stop it coking up.

 

[David2452]

Thing is, if it is operating correctly it should drop to low heat when it gets close to the set 20 degrees and maintain it, not switch off. you said you have the same controller as the OP (701 10 003), that already has the bars to indicate the set temperature so I am confused by your post concerning ordering one with bars. Problem with used ex vehicle heaters and looms, especially OE ones (after market and body builder fitted are often simpler) is it's not possible to know just exactly how they are configured and makes it difficult to be definitive with an answer. The only thing I can take a stab at is maybe you have an actual thermostat and not a set point controller, that would switch it off at a set temperature rather than ramp it down, it would run on full until then, in which case replacing it with something like a 703 would probably cure it.

 

[Colvic Watson]

Thanks David, I'll check the code.

 

[jimfin]

OK. Let me get this right. I have the D2 motor. The 701 10 003 controller and the pump for the fuel. And that's it.
Do I need a temp sencor for the temp bars to work on the controller?

 

[David2452]

OK. Let me get this right. I have the D2 motor. The 701 10 003 controller and the pump for the fuel. And that's it.
Do I need a temp sencor for the temp bars to work on the controller?

You already have a temp sensor, but it will be located inside the heater as its not a marine unit, it makes no difference to the controller where the sensor is, if you are unable to get the bars up on that controller as per the user manual I suspect a cabling or control fault. Do you have a buddy you could try a swap over with to confirm before buying another?

 

[jimfin]

No friends with the same controller. My 701 10 003 is a Ford part with a black 4 pin plug. Wires are red. yellow, gray/red, and black.
I have been looking at the Eberspacher D2 manual PDF with the wiring on page 34

 

[David2452]

I'm not really sure I can usefully contribute in that case, we are dealing (in both cases) with a unknown quantity with unknown provenance here, there could be a mismatch between the controller and ECU, the ECU could be expecting input from Bus of the vehicle it was intended for , I just don't know. My best advice at this stage as there is no available "known good" controller to check against would be to take the controller to an Eber dealer and get them to check it out as a first stage and move on from there.