Seastoke
Well-Known Member
I have a d5 unit i need to connect the main air inlet to the out side cant find one on fleabay help please.roy
Eberspacher air hull intake fitting
- Thread starter Seastoke
- Start date
sailorman
Well-Known Member
are we talking exhaust / combustion air or air that is to he heated & sent into the accommodation
Stork_III
Well-Known Member
Use one of these? http://www.aquafax.co.uk/html/product_specification.asp?ID=11686or any large through hull fitting with reducer onto intake pipe.
Seastoke
Well-Known Member
Air that has to be heated the pie is about 80 mm,cheers roy
Seastoke
Well-Known Member
Hi stork tried to click but not working do you have cat number please.r
Stork_III
Well-Known Member
Seastoke
Well-Known Member
Thanks may be ok but i might need something not so open i have tried looked on other boats but cant see one ,but best so far.
David2452
Well-Known Member
On 80mm distribution I use a 90mm always open vent and duct with a 90mm to 80mm reducer at the hetaer to allow good airflow.
http://mickwestmarine.com/webasto-90mm-always-open-black-vent-kit/
Seastoke
Well-Known Member
Hi david is that for external or internal thanks for reply.r
David2452
Well-Known Member
Depends what you mean by outside, I am assuming you mean outside the cabin in the cockpit or somewhere similar then it is fine, they are very robust, you can even get them in white and grey to match gelcoat if required. Make sure you affix a BIG label over it with the ledgend "DO NOT COVER"
Safety note, your profile does not state boat type if you have a petrol boat take great care where you mount the circulated air inlet, you don't want CO being pumped around your cabins.
Last edited:
Spi D
...
I presume we're talking about air from the hull outside to be heated and blown into the cabins?
Make sure you have a thermostat not placed in the burner intake as that will work only if air is recirculated (which is a common setup because it improves the efficiency over constantly taking cold air).
Vetus have a number of ventilators you might like
Make sure you have a thermostat not placed in the burner intake as that will work only if air is recirculated (which is a common setup because it improves the efficiency over constantly taking cold air).
Vetus have a number of ventilators you might like
Seastoke
Well-Known Member
ok i have looked on eberspacher web site and the d5 airtronic has 90mm intake pipe which must come from outside so outher boats must have a 90mm intake .mine is currently getting mine from in the hold but cuts out when on full heat .r
n.herring
Well-Known Member
I think you need to look at instructions again, combustion air can come from engine room but not accommodation, heating air can come from in cabin. All boats I have owned have heated recirculated cabin air, neil
Seastoke
Well-Known Member
hi neil i have looked it sure looks like you are right i just got to find a way to get back to cabin thanks for your time.r
Spi D
...
For information the principle is this
Blue arrows are cold air intake and you notice that combustion air is separate. This is taken in, combusted inside the heat chamber and exhausted with the resulting fumes.
The Air Inlet (left in the picture) is passing the heat chamber outside and, when heated, blown via ducting to the cabin(s). For efficiency the Air inlet normally is connected to the cabin (preferably near ceiling to pick up most heat). Since the heater will then 'know' how the temperature is in cabin by a thermostat in it's Intake airstream, the heat control knob in the cabin is only telling the heater if the ingoing air is warm enough or not.
If setting the heater up to take Air inlet for cabin heating from the outside, it will not reflect the cabin temperature hence making a thermostat, in there, necessary.
Recirculation needs other means of air replacement as forever circulating the same amount of air will not remove humidity, one of the more important aspects of heating. Most boats aren't 100% tight anyway so normally not an issue.
If set up to take air from the outside, the heater fan will build a slight pressure inside and displace 'used' air. Takes a more powerful heater to get the same net temperature, but on top of best dehumidification adds the benefit of preventing cold draught, since no chill will makes it's way into a pressurized cabin.
Blue arrows are cold air intake and you notice that combustion air is separate. This is taken in, combusted inside the heat chamber and exhausted with the resulting fumes.
The Air Inlet (left in the picture) is passing the heat chamber outside and, when heated, blown via ducting to the cabin(s). For efficiency the Air inlet normally is connected to the cabin (preferably near ceiling to pick up most heat). Since the heater will then 'know' how the temperature is in cabin by a thermostat in it's Intake airstream, the heat control knob in the cabin is only telling the heater if the ingoing air is warm enough or not.
If setting the heater up to take Air inlet for cabin heating from the outside, it will not reflect the cabin temperature hence making a thermostat, in there, necessary.
Recirculation needs other means of air replacement as forever circulating the same amount of air will not remove humidity, one of the more important aspects of heating. Most boats aren't 100% tight anyway so normally not an issue.
If set up to take air from the outside, the heater fan will build a slight pressure inside and displace 'used' air. Takes a more powerful heater to get the same net temperature, but on top of best dehumidification adds the benefit of preventing cold draught, since no chill will makes it's way into a pressurized cabin.
Last edited:
David2452
Well-Known Member
Quite a bit of conflicting information in this thread so to avoid any further confusion I will list the official best and worst and dangerous ways of taking in air for heating.
Best) Two inlets with a Y blend valve, reason: allows rapid warm up using recirculated air and then can be switched to outside air or a blend of the two to help remove condensation and generally improve the air in the cabin.
Second) Air from outside, reason: as above, but delete rapid warm up.
Third) recirculated air: gives rapid warm up but can become stuffy without additional ventilation. This method is often used by people who install vehicle kits in boats as they use internal temperature sensors. Proper marine kits have an external sensor and can be used in any type of install.
Worst) From the place where the heater is sited, this can be anywhere (not just engine room), reason: exhaust leaks can be drawn straight into the distributed withattendant unpleasantness and danger of CO and CO2 being pumped around the boat.
Best) Two inlets with a Y blend valve, reason: allows rapid warm up using recirculated air and then can be switched to outside air or a blend of the two to help remove condensation and generally improve the air in the cabin.
Second) Air from outside, reason: as above, but delete rapid warm up.
Third) recirculated air: gives rapid warm up but can become stuffy without additional ventilation. This method is often used by people who install vehicle kits in boats as they use internal temperature sensors. Proper marine kits have an external sensor and can be used in any type of install.
Worst) From the place where the heater is sited, this can be anywhere (not just engine room), reason: exhaust leaks can be drawn straight into the distributed withattendant unpleasantness and danger of CO and CO2 being pumped around the boat.
Seastoke
Well-Known Member
Thanks david just tryin find a good spot to get air from one of cabins .roy
Seastoke
Well-Known Member
Hj guys ,ok been to boat and managed to get a 4inch pipe from a bedroom for my intake air and it is working great no smells from any where thanks for all info ,r