Eberspacher again!!

[studgies]

Well know there has been a lot posted about these things but this is my last resort. We have had a faul with our eberwhatsit since we got outr boat second hand, the heater fires up, pump kicks in, and just as it gets up to full running temp the heater goes into shut down.

We removed the heater and took it for a service and reported the fault, they said it needed a good clean and new atomiser thingy and the fault codes re set. We got it home and excitedly re fitted it expecting hours of warmth but no same fault! Called eberpersons who said odd, it could be your cabin thermostat faulsly saying the temp has been reached so obediently we went off and bought a new one. Fitted that tonight and guess what.....same fault!

The heater is a D1LC (not the compact model D1LCc). the only manual we can find is for the D1LCc compact and we are wondering if the wiring diagram is different to that of the D1LC and we have wired it up wrong?? If not, any other clever ideas as I am gonna send it for a swim otherwise!!

Thanks

 

[VicMallows]

This sounds like the age-old problem that the voltage is too low. Have you tried it with the engine running? There are various ways around it but try that first.

Vic

 

[studgies]

hmm, well we have tried it with the engine running and with the charger on, voltage seems to be ok at over 13V, I would have thought it would have been during the power hungry start up phase that this would have been an issue. The heater seems to fire up fine and when it gets to full running temp it just shuts down.

 

[VicMallows]

Sorry, reading too fast (as our local Radio Solent host would say). In that case sounds like the overtemperature switch. On mine (an old DIL) this would require a manual (physical) reset. Do the newer ones still work this way? or is it handled by the electronics I wonder. If it is still a mechanical switch, it is just possible that although tripping (on real or false overtemperature) it is not latching into 'off' and therefore not requiring a physical reset.

Anyway, I'm sure you will get plenty more ideas. Good Luck!

Vic

 

[cliff]

[ QUOTE ]
Well know there has been a lot posted about these things but this is my last resort. We have had a faul with our eberwhatsit since we got outr boat second hand, the heater fires up, pump kicks in, and just as it gets up to full running temp the heater goes into shut down.

We removed the heater and took it for a service and reported the fault, they said it needed a good clean and new atomiser thingy and the fault codes re set. We got it home and excitedly re fitted it expecting hours of warmth but no same fault! Called eberpersons who said odd, it could be your cabin thermostat faulsly saying the temp has been reached so obediently we went off and bought a new one. Fitted that tonight and guess what.....same fault!

The heater is a D1LC (not the compact model D1LCc). the only manual we can find is for the D1LCc compact and we are wondering if the wiring diagram is different to that of the D1LC and we have wired it up wrong?? If not, any other clever ideas as I am gonna send it for a swim otherwise!!

Thanks

[/ QUOTE ]O.K. I am only going to go through this one more time so pencils at the ready.

There has been many posts on this subject in the past and a lot of crap talked about Eberspacher heaters. They are relatively simple things and it is well within the scope of the diy'r to fix most of the problems that arise.

Most common is a voltage problem as Vic pointed out (before reading you post properly /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif). You were correct if the heater starts then it is not lack of volts however do ensure all the electrical connectors are clean and in good condition. Replacement connectors can be obtained from Lucas and you can reuse the connector blocks after removing the old terminals if needed.

Now on to your problem (if I understand it correctly) you switch the heater on , it starts normally then after a few minutes cuts out? - yes?

O.K. 7 things could be wrong
1 Dirty filter (inlet to metering pump)
2 Flame out sensor defective
3 Overheat sensor defective
4 Unit overheating
5 room thermostat defective
6 Defective controller
7 defective metering pump
So starting with no1 clean the little gauze filter located in the inlet to the metering pump.
Flame out sensor is mounter on the heat exchanger and should show closed circuit when "cold" also check that the spring disk is shiny and not blued or corroded if it is change the sensor (not expensive)
If the flame out sensor is not opening as the heater warms up the controller is fooled into thinking the flame has gone out and shuts down the metering pump and runs its shutdown cycle. Now the importance of clean contacts should be evident - if the controller gets the wrong signals or doesn't get the correct signals all sorts of funny things can happen.

Next is the overheat sensor - good candidate as the one in your unit is (if I remember correctly) auto resetting. The sensor could be faulty opening at too low a temperature or the unit could be overheating and shutting down. The most common reason for overheating is a collapsed section of the heater duct or a partially blocked outlet so to check this remove the warm air duct from the end of the heater and try starting it. If it starts and runs O.K. you have a problem with the ducting.

Room thermostat - this can be checked by disconnecting it and running without it. again the stat is just a switch to tell the controller the temp is low or high eg switch open/closed.

As the unit seems to be working insofar as it starts and shuts down I would not suspect the controller at this stage.

Metering pump - well that is another story but if the filter is clean and the pump is clicking when you switch on the heater and squirting fuel out the delivery pipe I would leave it alone for the time being. If you want to check the pump I will need to look up the volume/time figures for your unit.

Final suggestion is if the unit is shutting down a few seconds after the glow plug is deenergised then I would suspect the plug and or the combustion chamber is coked up - remove the glow plug and check. This would stop the unit if the flame cannot maintain itself ie if the combustion chamber was too cold even after the glow plug had been working for its specified time.

If you are going to sling it, please sling it my way - I could do with an extra heater on board for these cold nights. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

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[VicMallows]

Cliff,

Maybe we should ask Kim to set up a dedicated Heater Q&A forum ?

Vic

 

[studgies]

Thanks for the comprehensive reply!

The unit was just serviced and given a clean bill of health by the Eberpeople, recent new glow plug gauze and over heat sensor so none of that.

Only prob is that we took the unit out for service so only gave eberspacher the heater the relay and the control unit so the wiring could be suspect I guess?? Gawd, need to trace the loom and check everything AGAIN!!!!

 

[cliff]

[ QUOTE ]
Cliff,

Maybe we should ask Kim to set up a dedicated Heater Q&A forum ?

Vic

[/ QUOTE ]Sounds good but " I'm nae jinin"
Ebers are simple heaters to work on and the problems are easy to determine with care and patience and a few basic tools/meters.
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[BrendanS]

Why? We've got enough as it is...we'd end up with forums for heaters, teak decking, props, and everyother FAQ etc etc etc etc etc

 

[cliff]

[ QUOTE ]
Thanks for the comprehensive reply!

The unit was just serviced and given a clean bill of health by the Eberpeople, recent new glow plug gauze and over heat sensor so none of that.

Only prob is that we took the unit out for service so only gave eberspacher the heater the relay and the control unit so the wiring could be suspect I guess?? Gawd, need to trace the loom and check everything AGAIN!!!!

[/ QUOTE ] Ahh, but when you say "eberpeople" was it Eberspacher themselves or someone pretending to be "Eberpeople"?

Anyway just because the unit has been "serviced" recently does not mean it is O.K.
As I said in my earlier post check all the electrical connections for ANY signs of slackness or corrosion and if any found change the terminals for new ones, also check the cables for any breaks, I have seen the cables break at the terminal and only being held in place with the insulation. Also do check the ducting - It will only take a few minutes to remove the duct from the heater and start the heater up - if all ok then you know where the fault lies and blocked ducting is the most common cause of overheating.
One other problem which might exist is the diesel supply - any water or "gel" or sludge getting pumped to the heater will stop it lighting. It is amazing how fast even condensation builds up in a tank if the tank is not kept full - some folk even drain their tank over the winter or so I have heard - lots of lovely water in the bottom.

The fuel for my Eber goes through the engine fuel seperators first then through an inline diesel filter then to the metering pump where it is filtered again.

Have fun and do let us know how you get on.
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[ShipsWoofy]

Just another thought.

where is your heater located? and where is it pulling fresh air from?

just for testing, run the heater in the cockpit on full power, no ducting attached, just the heater. If it runs it could be that it is getting too warm in its location and may require repositioning. I sometimes have to open the locker lid where mine is to maintain cool air into the inlet, currently it is pulling fresh air from the locker.

I think this might be worth a look, though mine only starts to shut down if set below around 3 on the rheostat. On full power it will keep running regardless.

The fact that the agent found no fault makes me think it has to be location.

hope this helps

 

[andyroo]

I have a D1LC which had similar problems to yours. It would fire perfectly, run for around 30 seconds (just as it begins to get warm) and then stops.

My problem was that there was lots of air in the fuel pipe, so the diesel wasn't reaching the heater in the right quantities. Since I have bled and them primed the fuel pipes (both sides of the fuel pump), it now runs a treat.

 

[jstalpaert]

Mine also has similar problems to yours. Sometimes it shuts down after 30 sec. All I have to do when it happens is to switch off and switch on again.

 

[searover]

Just think things could be worse, it could have been mine .not working..

 

[searover]

it could have been worse it could have been mine not working..

 

[steve28]

I wonder how they reset the fault codes on that model of eberspacher ?, i would have suspected a fuel problem either the pump or air in the system.

 

[PhilF]

nobody has mentioned a dose of fuel set, fixed mine after the same symptoms
PhilF

 

[boatmike]

Endorse everything you say Cliff but would add that it might just be contaminated fuel. Water or bugs in the fuel cause an interruption to the supply as "bug soup" wont go through the pump filter or small bore piping. Filtering is of course called for but as Eberspacher themselves recommend "fuel set" is a good additive that will help too.
Agree with you on everything else. In fact there is bugger all else left to go wrong anyway! You covered everything else very comprehensively and if he checks these things out systematically one by one he has to eliminate the problem.

 

[VicMallows]

Cliff, Brendan,

It was supposed to be tongue-in-cheek! ... Guess it was too late at night. Must get used to using smileys .... they were frowned upon where I used to work.

Vic