petem
Well-Known Member
I have both heating and A/c on the boat. Do either of these need any annual maintenance / servicing?
Eberspacer / Aircon maintenance
- Thread starter petem
- Start date
Boat2016
Well-Known Member
jrudge
Well-Known Member
- The AC raw water filter needs cleaning.
- All the AC unit air handler filters need removing and cleaning, and then you can vacuum the coil to get any remaining dust out
- From time to time (per my manual I have not done it) acid wash the raw water circuit as it gets limed up just like an engine. I dont think many people do this but it is in the manual .
thejonesey
Well-Known Member
I have been told that, from time to time run the eber on full power for a while to clean everything out..
rafiki_
Well-Known Member
Yep, no real servicing for the Eber. Just run it on full chat as thejonesey says.
superheat6k
Well-Known Member
For the AC a thorough leak check is a good idea. This is actually quite straightforward and well within most boat owner's capability.
Turn off the power supplies to the equipment.
First search each pipe and tube visually with a decent torch looking for traces of oiliness, stickiness, or a build up of dust. Where there is a leak there will normally be an oil trace.
Then on each threaded joint, so flare nuts, cap nuts, etc, make a simple leak fluid with a half cupful of 50:50 washing up liquid with water, then with a small paint brush paint on a small amount of the fluid right around the joint. Apply similar to any oily areas. Do this to several at a time, then watch for obvious bubbles, but for very tiny leaks formation of what looks like a blob shaving foam. If you do find any leaking then using two spanners pull the joint up with a spanner each side of the joint. This may seal the leak, so repeat the check.
But if your not sure now is the time to call out the local Fridge Engineer.
When your done mop up and spillages or excess, and leave the whole thing to dry out for a couple of hours before turning power back on. Avoid soaking anything and avoid electrical parts, although the threaded end of pressure sensors are notorious for small leaks, just be careful where you smother the fluid.
The same checks on the fridge pipes in the indoor units, and at any joints on the interconnecting pipe runs.
Check the condensate drains are clear and if you find any 'elephant snot' laying in damp condensate trays or drains then a solution of household bleach will destroy the bacteria that causes it. Make sure the condensate drain pipe is clear and allows water to flow freely to the drain point (often the bilge or overboard).
Also check the air filters are clean in the indoor air handlers, and make sure the condenser (if air cooled) is clean, if not use a liberal amount of the same leak test fluid, ideally using a simple sprayer, but be careful to stay away from electrical parts. If you have a water cooled condenser then check for fouling on the water side and if necessary descale as you would the seawater side of your engine's coolers, e.g. rydlyme of just a decent descaler chemical. Make sure the seawater strainers are clean, and that fouling is not obstructing the inlet or outlet pipes at the skin fittings. If you have anodes on the seawater circuit check these are not more than 50% worn.
Check the impeller on the seawater circulation pump - normally a smaller version of the rubber flappy style used on engine seawater pumps, so prone to the same perishing and cracking defects.
Testing the refrigeration side is more complex, but if the unit is working properly then it is reasonable to assume it is OK. If you do have a fridge manifold gauge this can be very helpful, but remember each time it is applied a small quantity of gas is lost from the hose, so use the shortest hose you can find, and make sure you unscrew the flare fitting nut swiftly to allow the schraeder pin valve to seal closed. Make sure the schraeder cap has its small rubber seal inside. If you don't understand what the gauge is telling you then it is better to save the refrigerant than simply checking the pressure just for the sake of it. The pressure alone does not tell the full picture of whether or not a system is adequately charged.
If the AC is reverse cycle heat pump then periodically putting from cooling to heating mode will keep the reversing valve free. If the mode does not change over then a light tap with a soft mallet often frees the valve.
Turn off the power supplies to the equipment.
First search each pipe and tube visually with a decent torch looking for traces of oiliness, stickiness, or a build up of dust. Where there is a leak there will normally be an oil trace.
Then on each threaded joint, so flare nuts, cap nuts, etc, make a simple leak fluid with a half cupful of 50:50 washing up liquid with water, then with a small paint brush paint on a small amount of the fluid right around the joint. Apply similar to any oily areas. Do this to several at a time, then watch for obvious bubbles, but for very tiny leaks formation of what looks like a blob shaving foam. If you do find any leaking then using two spanners pull the joint up with a spanner each side of the joint. This may seal the leak, so repeat the check.
But if your not sure now is the time to call out the local Fridge Engineer.
When your done mop up and spillages or excess, and leave the whole thing to dry out for a couple of hours before turning power back on. Avoid soaking anything and avoid electrical parts, although the threaded end of pressure sensors are notorious for small leaks, just be careful where you smother the fluid.
The same checks on the fridge pipes in the indoor units, and at any joints on the interconnecting pipe runs.
Check the condensate drains are clear and if you find any 'elephant snot' laying in damp condensate trays or drains then a solution of household bleach will destroy the bacteria that causes it. Make sure the condensate drain pipe is clear and allows water to flow freely to the drain point (often the bilge or overboard).
Also check the air filters are clean in the indoor air handlers, and make sure the condenser (if air cooled) is clean, if not use a liberal amount of the same leak test fluid, ideally using a simple sprayer, but be careful to stay away from electrical parts. If you have a water cooled condenser then check for fouling on the water side and if necessary descale as you would the seawater side of your engine's coolers, e.g. rydlyme of just a decent descaler chemical. Make sure the seawater strainers are clean, and that fouling is not obstructing the inlet or outlet pipes at the skin fittings. If you have anodes on the seawater circuit check these are not more than 50% worn.
Check the impeller on the seawater circulation pump - normally a smaller version of the rubber flappy style used on engine seawater pumps, so prone to the same perishing and cracking defects.
Testing the refrigeration side is more complex, but if the unit is working properly then it is reasonable to assume it is OK. If you do have a fridge manifold gauge this can be very helpful, but remember each time it is applied a small quantity of gas is lost from the hose, so use the shortest hose you can find, and make sure you unscrew the flare fitting nut swiftly to allow the schraeder pin valve to seal closed. Make sure the schraeder cap has its small rubber seal inside. If you don't understand what the gauge is telling you then it is better to save the refrigerant than simply checking the pressure just for the sake of it. The pressure alone does not tell the full picture of whether or not a system is adequately charged.
If the AC is reverse cycle heat pump then periodically putting from cooling to heating mode will keep the reversing valve free. If the mode does not change over then a light tap with a soft mallet often frees the valve.
Last edited:
Momac
Well-Known Member
I would suggest Not from time to time buy Every time the heater is used it should be run on full power.
If the heater has ben used on a low setting I make sure it gets full power run for a good 10 minutes immediately before the heater is switched off.
I think it is probably good to use the heater regularly as many faults on boats seem to be due to lack of use rather over use .
