Ebersbacher D3L

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pappaecho

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I need some advice regarding this unit. When I bought the boat last year the surveyor flashed up the heater without problem. During last winter we disconnected everything from the fuel tank which was extensively cleaned. I did not commission the heater.

Today I tried and it flashed up OK on cool ( fan only) When i switched it to heat, it worked breifly and blew the fuse. On inspection the fuse ( 8amp) was blown, and should have been 15 amp as per he manual. It then flashed up briefly and the exhaust elbow got warm, but it then stopped. According to the manual, the system needs to be switched of and then on again, to purge the system. When I did this the fan system stopped working, so that there are two working LEDs but no fan working.

It seems that the diesel line has got air in it, and so how do I purge it manually? Is there any sort of reset, to explain why the fan system is not working. ( as I understand there are two fans, a heater fan which blows hot or cold air, and a combustion fan, which is controlled by the control unit. I am referring of coruse to the heater fan, which is now not working.
Any ideas/
 
You can bleed the system manually by connecting two cables to the pump (not polarity sensitive) and repeatedly connecting disconnecting at the battey, remove the fuel line at the furnace and put a container to collect the spill, when you get a nice bubble free spurt with each pulse you are done.
 
Mine has got a bit of clear plastic pipe connecting it to fuel tank.It is very obvious when no fuel ie getting through.
If the pipe is hard to see,the little fuel pump will make a hard donk donk sound if no fuel present,which will mute to dull thonk when fuel finally gets to it.
If you have a long pipe it gan take ages/never for diesel to get to burner,so prime empty pipe/pump with small quantity of fuel and bung pipe back on fastish,
Fitted my system last year,they are dead simple,my only suggestion is if thing will not fire up after being left all summer ,start engine or shore power to get 13.8V into the circuit to give it kick up the bottom.
 
Pappaecho...
FWIW.. there is only one motor in the D3 and it performs the function of moving both the fresh air into the cabin and of moving the combustion air through the combustion chamber.

The fact that you can feel the elbow (Do you mean the exhaust outlet and at which point?) getting hot seems to say that some sort of combustion was successful. Have you not got a clear fuel feed line into the Eber and can you not see how far the fuel has got? They are usually self priming (the pump that is)....

If the fuel was only getting to the burner in fits and starts (i.e. big air gaps) then perhaps burn did start but was not sufficient to keep going. If left on for more time then the burner will have a second attempt at igniting.

Need to know - Was the fuel seen to be getting to the burner through the clear fuel tube? Did the unit actually ignite and produce any sort of smoke? Was the fan running at what appeared to be slow speed, medium speed or full speed? Was the fuel pump ticking (quick or slow)? and finally the timings (in seconds) for each of these actions...

Sorry about the questions but it will help with diagnosis.

Possibly just choked up gauze / combustion chamber... but timings will help to diagnose what to look at next.
 
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Thanks for the replies. The white pipe is translucent and you cannot clearly see either air or diesel.
I will use a direct connection to the battery, and pump the fuel through the pump and purge the system at the burner end. Hopefully that will fix it.

My thansk for the fact that there is only one fan on the model, so the heater fan is it.
 
It could take a long time to pump it through with the pump and a 12v supply.

It is a pulsed pump that clicks each time it is given a supply voltage. You would have to keep switching the supply on and off (and will find the fuel will maybe go about a centimetre further through the fuel line on each pulse/click)...

Did you get any kind of smoke from the exhaust at the time that you said it did warm up? Next time make a note of how long the clicking goes for, the speed of the fan and how they correlate..
 
Just a note that repeated attempts to start without fuel will cause the heater to lock out and it will need resetting. You may be able to do that yourself depending on what controls you have.
 
Does the D3L have lockout.... If it's the D3L then I don't think it does. If it's the D3LCc then I believe lockout is after either 3 overheats or 10 no-starts.

Thinking about it again.. the fan should start before the fuel even starts to get pumped. The fan runs whilst the glow plug is warming. So... if the fan has not started and the fuel pump has not started clicking then it's possibly the pre-start checks (e.g. flame detector and glow plug resistance) that could be failing...

Again.. need to know what it does do when it tries...
 
Like everything that is supposed to be the same these days... slight differences just appear.. I think it is just the c (compact) models that had it.. although again that might be a generalisation.

Worth pointing out though.... so that futile repeat attempts are not just tried and tried again.
 
there is a very little filter (wire gauze) in the line prior to the lift pump, worth checking that is clean
 
There is... but if the pump is not even ticking then it's not even getting as far as trying to pump fuel through it.. Still need more info...

Being pedantic I know.. but the filter is most likely within the pump body.. Not easy to find unless you know where to look. (And don't make the mistake of taking the wrong end of the pump off.. the wrong end is the fuel calibration).
 
Right my cable is made up with spade connectors at one end and morse code switch at the other.
Not sure as to how to reset the system, so will get fuel to the system first and then post again. if no joy.
 
... and when you give the main control a go.. make a note of how many seconds it is before the fan activates.. whether it speeds up or not and when (and if) the fuel pump starts ticking. Also the ticking will start slow.. does it speed up or not?
 
Beyondhelp said:
Just a note that repeated attempts to start without fuel will cause the heater to lock out and it will need resetting. You may be able to do that yourself depending on what controls you have.
Click to expand...
If the motor wont now run try pressing the Reset button on the top side of the heater unit near the rubber gaiter which covers the Glow plug connection.
Do not hold constant power to the fuel pump when priming just continuesley tap the positive feed wire from the battery on one of its terminals while there is a connection to negative on the other terminal.
The Motor shaft which drives the fan at the intake end of the heater, continues in to the combustion chamber and drives a fuel circulating fan/rotor in there.
The heat you experienced at the exaust elbow could be a result of some fuel being burned while the glow plug was switched in and not the actual full flame established, which is when the glow plug then switches out.
There is a cylindrical shaped wick inside the combustion chamber which glows once the flame is established, if this is burned out or dissintegrated the heater wont run properly and will need to be stripped down for an overhaul and decoke.
I do have a series of pics which I took while dismantling and reassembling my D3L, showing the important internal componants and the wick.
Let me know if you want and I can email them to you.
C_W
 
Martin_J said:
Does the D3L have lockout.... If it's the D3L then I don't think it does. If it's the D3LCc then I believe lockout is after either 3 overheats or 10 no-starts.

Thinking about it again.. the fan should start before the fuel even starts to get pumped. The fan runs whilst the glow plug is warming. So... if the fan has not started and the fuel pump has not started clicking then it's possibly the pre-start checks (e.g. flame detector and glow plug resistance) that could be failing...

Again.. need to know what it does do when it tries...
Click to expand...

If I am not mistaken the D3LC is the petrol version.
Incidently I have never seen anything in the manual about the D3L locking out if controlled by a simple rotary control knob.
C_W
 
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D3LC?
D3LC compact (D3LCc) and D3LP compact (D3LPc) are both diesel versions I believe.. Being the 'compact' versions they have the lockout.. just like the D1LCc.

D3L (as you say) doesn't.. Subtle difference between names.

Petrol versions - B3LCc and B3LPc.
 
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