Duoprop Removal

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Rich_S

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Hi,
am after any hints or tips for this. I have the Seloc manual btw.

Anyway bent one of the props on a bit of wood and don't have service center nearby so intended to take props off from swim platform while boat in water and send to Steel Developments.

I can't shift the cone nut!!! It doesn't have any holes to put a bar through, I tried a cheap oil filter removal tool (chain) but no good.

Any thoughts?

Thanks...............Rich.
 
I usually forget the nut and have to spend a while wrestling with the cone first:-\

The standard props are made of cheese so a block of wood under them might not be for the best - The Volvo manual recommends using forward/reverse gear as appropriate to stop the prop turning.

You're brave, removing them in the water, I'd have visions of all the little bearings and washers dropping off.....
 
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wongaero said:
I usually forget the nut and have to spend a while wrestling with the cone first:-\

The standard props are made of cheese so a block of wood under them might not be for the best - The Volvo manual recommends using forward/reverse gear as appropriate to stop the prop turning.

You're brave, removing them in the water, I'd have visions of all the little bearings and washers dropping off.....
Click to expand...

Ah suspending box underneath!
 
We always change ours in the water, but being in an inland marina if we drop anything its only 5ft to go and get it again. We do however get through a lot of props.
 
fwiw,
Best practice to fit a 'new' vp retaining bolt periodically to correct torque when re-installing. Common problem of overtightening over time, rather than using a torque bar, is that the locking bolt weakens then fails / shears off and then usually followed by the cone and then the outer prop = £££££'s. About £5 from vp.
Got to ask / question the ability to grease up with your method ?? or is that why your cone is so hard to remove perhaps ??
 
mont said:
fwiw,
Best practice to fit a 'new' vp retaining bolt periodically to correct torque when re-installing. Common problem of overtightening over time, rather than using a torque bar, is that the locking bolt weakens then fails / shears off and then usually followed by the cone and then the outer prop = £££££'s. About £5 from vp.
Got to ask / question the ability to grease up with your method ?? or is that why your cone is so hard to remove perhaps ??
Click to expand...

Not been taken off in water before, have leg serviced every 2 years by VP agent so done on land last winter. Got prop of my old 280 ok. Now, did the service agent apply anti seize compound is another story. The nose cone has no holes, no flats am thinking of stillsons? Also have new center bolt Keypart £7.
 
Hi you probably know this if not try tightening it first,can't understand why there are no holes & or grooves,regards mm1.
 
trying said:
I think scubadoo's question was aimed at cx54 wek?
Click to expand...

Oops, if that's the case apologies. Don't like this new format! Not to start more Fred Drift!

To all...................the question is how to get the cone nut off?

SPANNERMAN?
 
It would be big set of stilsons and a towel to protect cone, for me...and drill some holes while its off.
I know I may be teaching to suck eggs but did you turn in right direction...for me its never the cone but the props that can be a bugger.

could give it a good tap with a club or sledge to break the hold or try a bit of heat.
 
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Scubadoo said:
How comes you go through so many props?
Click to expand...

The bottom is often far too close to the top of the Trent. Wrong boat for the inland waters, wouldnt change it though. Its worth changing the props every few months.

Should just add the OH works in a bodyshop and can repair our dinged sets if they are not too bad.
 
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