I agree with der Englander. What you might save on the cost of varnish is nothing compared with the pain of having to remove something that didn't work and then apply a good product, such as Epifanes.
i have used it on teak cappings on my Co 32
use the lightest colour available (say pine) its lets the grain show through the finish isnt as good as varnish but looks better than varnish @ the end of the season
can't vouch for the varnish, but the masonry paint is absolutely excellent for decks! It goes on well, sticks well, has a good non-slip finish and stays clean longer than others I've tried. Its also about a third of the price.
I painted my topsides with dulux weather shield 5 years ago and now its starting to flake off in places,i only gave it two coats of undercoat i was told to give it nine?
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I painted my topsides with dulux weather shield 5 years ago and now its starting to flake off in places,i only gave it two coats of undercoat i was told to give it nine?
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The Blakes on my decks flaked at a lot less than that ... and is a right "dog" to sort ...
My intention is to use Masonry paint from local DIY store ... after sanding back what edges I can get to .. hi-build primer to try and level of the edges to make as smooth as possible.
Varnish ... Exterior grade is what I use ... where I want the Varnish look ... but elsewhere where it's subject to rub, work etc. as in rubbing strakes etc. - Sadolin or equivalent micro-pore stain ... soaks in well .. easy to touch up ... stops rot / mould etc. and never flakes like varnish.
I agree,the secret is in the prep,for painting the hull of a wooden boat,after every undercoat leave overnight lightly sand before applying another,and repeat 8 times,a little secret a painter gave me some years ago,before the final topcoat,mix fifty fifty undercoat and topcoat,paint it on with a good brush, let it dry, lightly sand then put on the topcoat with a brush,finish like glass every time.