KenMcCulloch
Well-Known Member
My friend's lifting keel, actually it's a very narrow (high aspect ratio) centreplate, has fallen off. Has anyone had experience of replacing such a thing on one of these boats? If so what advice would you offer?
Dufour 1800 Lifting keel fallen off
- Thread starter KenMcCulloch
- Start date
thalassa
Well-Known Member
Not on a 1800, but my 2800 Dufour had a lifting keel too, and it is a near identical arrangement AFAIK.
To change the blade, you have to find the axle first. The iron ballast box has a hole going right through both sides, and the axle is a SS bar which is about 3 cm shorter, leaving a 1.5 cm 'dip' on each side. Normally, it is then filled with polyester and faired down. If the blade is in place, you can work this out by simple geometry, but since it has disappeared, you can try to find it with a magnet. The ballast box is iron, with a thin sheet of glass fibre. The axle on my boat was non-magnetic, so easy to find as a 'dip' in the magnetic force. You then chisel away the polyester on both sides, and hammer out the steel bar. You will need a second bar and a big hammer!
The original blade is cast iron with two welded-in cheeks on the trailing end. The eye (with a timble) of the the lifting wire is simply put between the cheeks. You can make up a rivet with a bolt (head flattened and rounded off) and a washer or a nut - or both -welded on. The keel weighed in at about 40 kg, I suppose a 1800 has a little less. In any case, whatever it is made of, make it as heavy as possible. If it fills with mud while drying out, you need the weight. The hole for the axle is about 1/3 of the front end; I have no pattern, sorry. The keel is quite loose in the box. With the keel down, the play is limited by two rods (ab. 25 mm diam.) near the underside of the box. These are often worn off, since originally, they were made of ordinary nylon (Technyl), which absorbs water and turns rapidly into a chalky substance. Have new ones made in Ertalon or similar. Removal of the old rods is similar to the axle.
The lifting wire goes over and under two pulleys high on the inside of the box. Check their condition.
I wish your friend has success with the project!
To change the blade, you have to find the axle first. The iron ballast box has a hole going right through both sides, and the axle is a SS bar which is about 3 cm shorter, leaving a 1.5 cm 'dip' on each side. Normally, it is then filled with polyester and faired down. If the blade is in place, you can work this out by simple geometry, but since it has disappeared, you can try to find it with a magnet. The ballast box is iron, with a thin sheet of glass fibre. The axle on my boat was non-magnetic, so easy to find as a 'dip' in the magnetic force. You then chisel away the polyester on both sides, and hammer out the steel bar. You will need a second bar and a big hammer!
The original blade is cast iron with two welded-in cheeks on the trailing end. The eye (with a timble) of the the lifting wire is simply put between the cheeks. You can make up a rivet with a bolt (head flattened and rounded off) and a washer or a nut - or both -welded on. The keel weighed in at about 40 kg, I suppose a 1800 has a little less. In any case, whatever it is made of, make it as heavy as possible. If it fills with mud while drying out, you need the weight. The hole for the axle is about 1/3 of the front end; I have no pattern, sorry. The keel is quite loose in the box. With the keel down, the play is limited by two rods (ab. 25 mm diam.) near the underside of the box. These are often worn off, since originally, they were made of ordinary nylon (Technyl), which absorbs water and turns rapidly into a chalky substance. Have new ones made in Ertalon or similar. Removal of the old rods is similar to the axle.
The lifting wire goes over and under two pulleys high on the inside of the box. Check their condition.
I wish your friend has success with the project!
Last edited:
KenMcCulloch
Well-Known Member
Thanks Thalassa, that seems like helpful advice. I'll pass it on.
Seajet
...
I have an Anderson 22 lift keeler - while the arrangement is different, one lesson is constant with ALL lift keelers; the keel plate must be maintained every winter.
This is why storing such boats on trailers, or on the ground with the keel retracted, is a disaster.
I and most other owners keep our boats on high trestles to allow lowering and looking after the plate ( NB normal boat cradles such as fin keelers use are no good, as the hull must be supported properly over a wide area ).
Having the boat up high has the added advantage of making her much less accessible to thieves.
These trestles are easy to make, and flat - about 8" thick - for portability, once the bolt on feet are removed.
Materials- plywood, hardwood & bolts, cost around £250-300.
I run the Anderson 22 Owners Association, if you'd like a copy of the trestle plans to adapt to your boat feel free to mail me,
Andy
andylaw119@hotmail.com
This is why storing such boats on trailers, or on the ground with the keel retracted, is a disaster.
I and most other owners keep our boats on high trestles to allow lowering and looking after the plate ( NB normal boat cradles such as fin keelers use are no good, as the hull must be supported properly over a wide area ).
Having the boat up high has the added advantage of making her much less accessible to thieves.
These trestles are easy to make, and flat - about 8" thick - for portability, once the bolt on feet are removed.
Materials- plywood, hardwood & bolts, cost around £250-300.
I run the Anderson 22 Owners Association, if you'd like a copy of the trestle plans to adapt to your boat feel free to mail me,
Andy
andylaw119@hotmail.com