Dual voltage Fridges

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We have a facility on our Trader to supply both 12volt DC and 220Volts AC to the fridge compartments. Would anybody know whether such a fridge with dual voltage capability exists or is manufactured. The ability to switch between the two would certainly take the strain of the batteries and the charger when the engines are not running for long periods.
I am intrigued why Tarquin would go to all the trouble of installing dual wiring otherwise.

Any thoughts/info. would be welcome. Thanks.
 

hlb

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My fridge is duel voltage and you can also have duel and gas.
Cant tell you the make or makes these days but any chandlers or caravan shop will have them.
But anyway on 12 volts they dont use much and you can always recharge the batterys with the 220V so maybe not worth the expence.

Haydn
 

daveb

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Basically ALL caravan fridges are 12vdc 220v and gas. So go to a dealer and look at the Electrolux range. I have one in my caravan and I have seen them second hand for as little as £50.
 
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Thanks to both of you for your information. We have been making do with a 12volt fridge in the saloon, that is about to give up the ghost. Hence the quest for a dual volt model now, rather than repeat the experience with just the 12volt option again. The thought of getting back on board to a welcoming cold beer is ever more achievable. Thanks again. Peter
 

jollyjacktar

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12V only Temporary Measure

Most of the caravan type 12V fridges are motorless [using a heat source evaporator] and also run on gas or 220v. They are really designed to run on either 220v or gas. The 12v option is just to maintain things in transit after having frozen everything down by the other methods. The evaporation system requires the fridge to be maintained in a horizontal position, so not much good at sea unless on gymbals but a definite possability when at anchor or alongside. I have used this with some success, cooling things to a max just before sailing, turning the fridge off in transit and not opening the fridge unless absolutely necessary, then setting things going on full blast again when I use the motor and am generating power or by lighting the gas when engine stopped and at anchor. Things keep reasonably cool for about a day when not cooling if the fridge is well insulated [it works like an icebox].

Some fridges systems use a system using automobile type air conditioner pumps. The compressor is driven by a belt drive from the boat motor, motor not running ... fridge not cooling, use method as above. You need a fridge that has a mechanical compressor [the most energy efficient system]. Some exist that can be run on 12vdc [hence the 12v option provided by Tarquin].

You could use a conventional fridge using 220v providing you can supply this at sea, or else by shore line. Or you could use a 12vac -220vdc voltage inverter for boat use [if plenty of 12v power] and change when alongside to 220vac.

Good luck and keep plenty of ice for your G&T
 
G

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I guess it's not really relevant but I'm fairly sure that the tri fuel option, 12V, 220V and gas wouldn't be acceptable for the Boat Safety Cert. They won't let you have the gas bit, but OK with the dual voltage.
 

stefan_r

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I have a 24v and 240v (Ariston) fridge set up...basically I have a belt drive freon compressor that runs on either voltage and I simply switch on at the fuse panel the 24v or 240v supply (one isolates the other so you cannot have both on at once).

This runs fine 'cos I can either run the fridge from shorepower at the berth and then off the batteries (engine alternator keeps batts topped up) using 24v while underway OR using the 240v from the genny.

Tell me what is missing from your system that means you cannot do the same?

As far as I am aware the fridge itself isnt 12/24/240 volt....it just takes the cooling freon from a source and has a bit of local electricity to power the fridge light....



mailto: stefan@athito.com
 
G

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I don't know for sure, but would say the fridge is most efficient when run on 220v

David

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