Drying out technique

[rwoofer]

I have just bought a Moody and need to re-antifoul the bits that the surveyor scraped off (the yard that lifted the boat never bothered to touch them up). To keep costs down I would like to dry out against piles, but I have never seen or done it myself.

What is the best technique for doing this? ie to avoid bow/stern down, lean against the piles etc.

It weighs 10.5 tonnes.

Thanks

RB

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[AndCur]

I presume your boat is a fin keeler. The easy way it to come along side the piles while the tide is still on the rise
making sure the boat is the middle I could come on bow first. Then place fenders between the hull and the piles horizontally are usually better but will depend on the boat. Then take your main halyard and tie it to something solid ashore. This is then tensioned so the boat heals against the piles also it’s a good idea to lye your anchor chain along the side deck as this will help to heel the boat. I would also rig for and aft lines as well as lines round the piles just to give a bit more control as the boat waits to dry.


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[vyv_cox]

Bow/stern down largely depends upon the design of the boat, best to get advice from owners of the same type. Unless the keel design is fairly radical, swept back, rounded shape, etc., it is not normally an issue.

First, make sure as far as possible that the ground you intend to take is clear of rocks and reasonably level. As the tide falls, take measures as described above to ensure that the boat is leaning inwards. I rarely use the halyard ashore method, anchor chain on deck gives plenty of heel. Ensure that the shrouds will not contact anything when the boat is well down and leaning.

I have never actually dried alongside piles, only walls and grids, but I would assume not very different. In practice virtually all the leaning is taken by a small length of the hull.

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[Barry777]

Without wishing to stop a man working, i wouldn't have thought that covering the few square inches exposed by the surveyor would make much difference to the amount of fouling. Also, Moody's aren't the fastest boats on the water so you can't be doing it for better speed. Before any comments, i'm a Moody owner, and have had 3 differnt models over the last 15 years, and as i tell friends Moody's are built for comfort and safety, not speed.

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[andy_wilson]

1. Inspect the beach / grid / pad at a previous low water. Ideally note the time of drying so you can calculate it's height above chart datum. I have not found a harbourmaster yet who knew the height of his grid above datum. Check with H/M that local conditions won't cause bumping. My hardest landing was at Dartmouth with some East in the wind driving a (very small but nevertheless nerves inducing) swell up the river. Check.

2. Calculate the tides so you know you will not be neaped. Ensure there is not a dramatic increase in atmospheric pressure (+1mb = -1cm) or change of wind to offshore to reduce your calculated heights.

3. If you have loads of time, approach the grid at about the same point of the rising tide as you expect to settle on the fall. That way you confirm your calcs as you nudge in.

4. If drying on a slip (slope) go nose first otherwise you may ground the rudder first. Not good.

5. Use the longest lines fore and aft and for springs as you can rig. If you can hang a gas bottle or water can from one to bring the system into tension you will avoid having to tend them, but rig them so you can adjust from aboard anyway. If you lead any through guardwires, ensure the angle won't change dramatically on settling so as to strain anything.

6. Check your depths with a lead line just in case.

7. Have at least 4 good thick fenders at the point of contact (if a wall) or rig them horizontally against piles. Use a fender mat between hull and fenders, just in case of grit.

8. Induce a degree or two of list - anchor on the side deck and most of the chain should do it. Make the boom off shore wards, that weighs quite a bit, 'specially if the mains'l is still on.

9. Halyards ashore are a bloody nuisance - particularly if you forget it when floating off. Instead tie a large bowline round the mast that can slip easily up and down as the level changes, and fasten that to shore instead. This will also help keep her snug whilst settling.

10. Put the kettle on.

11. make sure you have a spare STRONG line ready on the forward and aft rail, just in case.

Additional advice for grids.

Many of these are for fishing type vessels with long keels. If your choosen spot has a grid, check the spacing with the length of your keel. If you have drawings or a photo of the yacht with keel showing, be aware of where the forward and aft edge is in relation to your toerail, and use a lead line to ensure that the beams are well spaced beneath you before touching. I have seen photographs of a modernish fin keeler that ended up with its nose at ground level as enough of the front part of the keel was unsupported. I doubt much harm will be done apart from the possibility of spills from tank vents etc. Resting on the rudder may cause serious harm.

Where are you based, there may be some local knowledge to draw upon.

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[rwoofer]

Thanks everyone for the very useful tips. I think I will need a halyard onto one of the posts as I'm not sure an anchor and chain makes much difference on a 10.5 tonne boat in terms of lean.

The reason I'm bothering with the small patches is that I think when the surveyor chiselled off the antifouling some of the gelcoat may have also been taken away. Therefore want to touch them up to avoid water absorption.

RB


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[claymore]

I used to fill my diesel tank and dry out with an emptyish water tank as an addition to the anchor shain on deck - when going alongsied the club posts to dry out and scrub off/antifoul.
No-one else seems to have mentioned it but a nice big plank - scaffolding plank will just about do - and lay it outside your fenders - then you are not running up and down moving fenders as the boat settles.

<hr width=100% size=1>regards
Claymore
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