Drying out against a wall

[tatali0n]

Silly newbie question: but how do you allow for the tide when mooring up to dry against a harbour wall?

I get that the warps need to be slack enough so that you don't dangle as the tide drops, but what do you do with the slack when the tide rises? Seems a bit of a nuisance to have to sit there tending to the warps all day as the tide rises and falls ....... do you just fender the boat well, and let her drift away from the wall as the tide comes in?

We've got the advantage of bilge keels, so at least I don't need to worry about toppling over.

 

[Sarh Dee]

Thought that was the advantage of bilge keels you do not need a wall to lean on just let her drop onto the ground as the tide falls out. a fin keel needs to lean on a wall to stop her falling over

 

[tatali0n]

Thought that was the advantage of bilge keels you do not need a wall to lean on just let her drop onto the ground as the tide falls out

Very true, and ours takes the ground very well without a wall, which would always be my preference.

I was thinking of Clovelly though, where the visitor moorings appear to be against the wall in the tiny harbour, or at anchor outside the harbour itself.

I'm guessing the latter would be more weather dependent, and the risks of getting flushed out to Hartland Point by the tide much greater when I try to paddle back to the boat after closing time

 

[pmagowan]

If you need to stay near the wall then you just need some kind of tensioning device on the warps for as the tide rises. You can put a jerry can or an angel or any other weight on the middle of the warp and that will keep it taught. Alternatively find somewhere, such as a ladder, where you can rig a line to allow a shackle to slide up and down. Of course, you might need to use a quick release knot as the lower end of the line will end up under water. You can also use a shackle on the shrouds as it will ride up as the boat moves. Using very long 'springs' will allow enough movement for when the tide goes out and still keep the boat in tight due to the angle of the warps. etc

 

[Allan]

There's no problem. With long lines for and aft, try to be onboard the first time you touch the bottom. That way you can ensure your close enough to the ladder. After that you'll come down in pretty much the same place.
If you're going to Clovelly it's even easier. Go into the harbour as far as the bend in wall. Moor against the first bit that points you at the pub. You have to go in a couple of hours either side of high water so you don't drop too far. A fender board is a good idea.
Allan

 

[single]

As said above, long lines with weights or bungee cord taking up the slack.

 

[Capt Popeye]

Humm suggest that you might move some weight on board to the side of boat that you want to lay against the wall or posts .
Like heavy anchors, spare coils of rope, fuel cans, chain etc, just to give her a suggestion on what side to settle.
Oh, yes do make sure that you are on board when she touches down so that no ropes are stretched or under too much tension or indeed are caught up onto something that you are not aware of. When settled is a good time to go around adjusting the ropes to suit the circumstances and ensure that she settles back in same place / spot next time.
Really no real prob especially as you have bilge keels, and good fenders on board.

Oh if you got it wrong and she is hung up, it might result in her taking on water when the tide comes back in, nasty so needs to be avoided at all costs.

 

[fisherman]

Weight(s) on warp(s), and it helps to make the warps up to the offside of the boat to keep her in tight.

 

[siencyn]

I have long lines fore to aft crossing each other f you see what I mean? Like a scissors? This means the slack is taken up diagonally. Not completely though and it does take a bit of faffing about.

 

[Allan]

Humm suggest that you might move some weight on board to the side of boat that you want to lay against the wall or posts .
Like heavy anchors, spare coils of rope, fuel cans, chain etc, just to give her a suggestion on what side to settle.
Oh, yes do make sure that you are on board when she touches down so that no ropes are stretched or under too much tension or indeed are caught up onto something that you are not aware of. When settled is a good time to go around adjusting the ropes to suit the circumstances and ensure that she settles back in same place / spot next time.
Really no real prob especially as you have bilge keels, and good fenders on board.

Oh if you got it wrong and she is hung up, it might result in her taking on water when the tide comes back in, nasty so needs to be avoided at all costs.

I would take issue with the idea of putting weight on the shore side of the boat. This will mean the inner keel touches first and as the boat continues to drop it will move away from the wall. In most cases the bottom slopes away from the wall so you're going to move away as the boat settles.
I have two long ex-climbing ropes that I use for drying out. Nice and long with plenty of stretch. The added bonus is that they are given away by my local climbing centre.
Allan

 

[Capt Popeye]

I would take issue with the idea of putting weight on the shore side of the boat. This will mean the inner keel touches first and as the boat continues to drop it will move away from the wall. In most cases the bottom slopes away from the wall so you're going to move away as the boat settles.
I have two long ex-climbing ropes that I use for drying out. Nice and long with plenty of stretch. The added bonus is that they are given away by my local climbing centre.
Allan

Humm, yes you are quite right there Allan in your explanations, I suppose I reacted the the normal requirement to lie against a wall as when berthing a deep or long keel craft, where in an effort to stop the craft falling over she lies or leans against the wall so with a bilge or twin keel craft I suppose she does not need to actually lie against the wall as she will stand on her own two feet (keels) unless the ground falls away at too great an angle when she might list rather alarmingly. No experience of berthing a twin / bilge keel against such a wall though.

 

[Allan]

Humm, yes you are quite right there Allan in your explanations, I suppose I reacted the the normal requirement to lie against a wall as when berthing a deep or long keel craft, where in an effort to stop the craft falling over she lies or leans against the wall so with a bilge or twin keel craft I suppose she does not need to actually lie against the wall as she will stand on her own two feet (keels) unless the ground falls away at too great an angle when she might list rather alarmingly. No experience of berthing a twin / bilge keel against such a wall though.

I went into Appledore and started to tie up. A guy shouted down to me saying a fishing boat had been in that position for a few days and may come back on that tide. As his mooring lines were still there I decided to move. He didn't come back but when the tide went out I realised that my outside keel would have been in the trough made in the sand by his keel. It was about half a metre deep! I'm sure I would have fallen over!
Allan