Dometic/ Waeco CRP40 Fridge

j24jam

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17 Jul 2011
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Hi all,

The fridge has packed up, no sign of life.

First stop I think is to bypass the thermostat - can anyone advise the size of resistor I should temporarily use to see if we can get the fridge working using this bypass...

If its not the thermostat I guess its the compressor thats failed, in which case a bin job for the whole unit?

THanks
 

VicS

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First thing check the power supply !

I cannot help re thermostat or its sensor but I note something in the instruction manual about the compressor only starting if the ambient temperature is above 16C ( seems odd !
 

j24jam

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Have removed it from the boat and tried it on a fresh 12V battery (known to be fully charged), and no change...
 

lustyd

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Check out Emily and Clark's channel on YT. They have several videos covering fridges in great detail and I am certain will help you troubleshoot. I believe the thermostat is effectively just a switch from memory and closes the two pins when calling for the pump

 

lustyd

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Also worth knowing when you're searching that your fridge is a Danfoss/Secop and you can safely ignore the Dometic/Waeco label since all they did was plumb it into the sled.
 

PaulRainbow

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Hi all,

The fridge has packed up, no sign of life.

First stop I think is to bypass the thermostat - can anyone advise the size of resistor I should temporarily use to see if we can get the fridge working using this bypass...

If its not the thermostat I guess its the compressor thats failed, in which case a bin job for the whole unit?

THanks
Could be the thermostat, test by bridging the C and T terminals, no resistor needed.
Could be the control module, no easy test that i know of.
Could be the compressor, but that's the least likely thing.
 

vas

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download the bd35 danfoss manual showing the controller box and the terminals explaining what each does. There's a D (irrc) terminal that when wiring a 3 or 5mm LED (the right way round which I obvs don't remember ofhand) it will produce a number of flashes that tell you what's wrong.
That's a step you can take after Pauls #1 and before #2 which basically means you need to have another good controller to swap no other test that I know of/seen used on them.

And as others said, don't underestimate the need for juice to run. Use a voltometer and see what you get on short thickish wires and new spade terminals. Seen way too many issues being simple voltage drop/weak power supply.

V.
 
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