Do i have a problem here?

Warpa

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Port side

picture068x.jpg


Starboard

picture069b.jpg
 
yes, you are mixing port and starboard

Whoooo, never saw the port caption at the top. :D

Wish my drive still looked like that :(

However, you too can make your drive look just like mine Warpa, all you need is a tin of Trilux and a tar brush, preferably with the bristles a bit stuck together from last year.
 
yes, you are mixing port and starboard.

I thought starboard was left:eek: Trust me to try and use nautical terms when i dont have a clue:D

Reason i asked is because of this video i saw, why does his blow water both sides? its at about 2.42 through the film, done some nice work i think, just needs to sort the teeshirt out:eek::D



BTW anyone know what the full service interval for the sterndrive is? Seen a good kit here:cool:

http://www.aquapart.co.uk/acatalog/Mercruiser-Alpha-1-Gen-2-Extended-Service-Kit.html
 
I thought starboard was left:eek: Trust me to try and use nautical terms when i dont have a clue:D

Reason i asked is because of this video i saw, why does his blow water both sides? its at about 2.42 through the film, done some nice work i think, just needs to sort the teeshirt out:eek::D



BTW anyone know what the full service interval for the sterndrive is? Seen a good kit here:cool:

http://www.aquapart.co.uk/acatalog/Mercruiser-Alpha-1-Gen-2-Extended-Service-Kit.html


5.7 is a V8 with water coming from both sides of the engine, yours is a straight 4 with the water exiting from the port side of the engine and getting carried across to the stbd side bypass port by inertia.

Alpha drive service interval is usually 100 hours in freshwater or 50 in salt for all lubrication points.
 
yes, you are mixing port and starboard

Whoooo, never saw the port caption at the top. :D

Wish my drive still looked like that :(

However, you too can make your drive look just like mine Warpa, all you need is a tin of Trilux and a tar brush, preferably with the bristles a bit stuck together from last year.

My drive is 13 years old, did look ropey when i got it but nothing a quick detail didnt cure:D
 
that makes sense, mine had 3lt mercs so 4 cylinder

Out of curiosity what boat was that in and how reliable was the engine? I think i have a very good one here, been laid up for a month and started on the turn of the key today. All parts are ordered for a full service and winterisation, so she should be good for some hard work in the spring:D
 
They were in a Sealine 255 but were replacement units, the previous owner told me he had a hose split on the cooling system and only realised there was a problem when the engines stopped, when he lifted the hatch the engines were almost completely under water.

Think there was a problem with the auto chokes as they weren't keen on starting but once going they were 100% reliable, then they were only 4 years old when I sold it.

Think there was a new cold start added on all the 3lt mercs a year after the model year I had so maybe it was a common theme with them.
 
They were in a Sealine 255 but were replacement units, the previous owner told me he had a hose split on the cooling system and only realised there was a problem when the engines stopped, when he lifted the hatch the engines were almost completely under water.

Think there was a problem with the auto chokes as they weren't keen on starting but once going they were 100% reliable, then they were only 4 years old when I sold it.

Think there was a new cold start added on all the 3lt mercs a year after the model year I had so maybe it was a common theme with them.


Mine is disconnected and locked completely open, just prime the manifold with the accelerator pump, two full throttle pumps, spin her over and she fires immediately and settles down to an even tickover within 30 seconds from cold.

Yes the 3.0L is a good engine and known as being very economical for a yank marine lump. The Yanks called it the Iron Duke when it was fitted in Chevy Blazers and Camaro's.

Only problem is that the idle can be a bit ropey because of the need to set it at 600 rpm to keep the prop speed low when maneuvering, instead of the more usual 800 - 850 rpm in automotive applications.
 
Mine were never that good, they needed to be warm before they would settle at idle but I suppose that could be down to the auto chokes too.

Think I am right in saying that it is the same base block as the Volvo AQ 151 engine and is basically bomb proof and cheap to replace.

When I was investigating general consensus seemed to be the Merc engine was better marinised but the volvo drives were better. That said I found the Alpha drives a lot easier to work on than the Volvo's I have now and apart from a water seal going I had no other issues.

Never understood why Volvo didn't fit internal oil reservoir like Merc, it was the white clouding in the bottom of the reservoir that gave early warning to the seal going meaning it was fixed before any damage occurred, if it was volvo it would have been the end of season lift when it was found, possibly after some expensive damage had happened.
 
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I hope i can learn what to and when to check for signs of damage before total failure. As i dont have a clue i plan to do a full service on the engine and leg each year and fit a new impeller each season. Durin the summer ill do an oil and filter change just for the hell of it...£30 for oil and filter, no point in running the motor on dirty oil.

Hopefully that should cover me:confused:
 
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