Diy line snubber?

fredrussell

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Get yerself down to a boat jumble - they were doing two for a tenner at the Ipswich one last weekend. Or, start collecting bungee cord odds and sods and combine a load of them to make a big bungee snubber.
 
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If you need a snubber, which I assume you really do, then at £26 it is not that bad, just a few pints of beer. Alternatively, I have seen inner tubes, motorcycle and bicycle tyres used as snubbers. The inner tube was doubled over to make a double loop with the rope wound through it snubber style.
 

OceanSprint

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I'm afraid I equate 26 pounds to 6 bottles of 3.99 plonk plus a bag of nuts. But I think I need 3, 2 bow lines plus centre springer. When a small swell gets into marina boats don't half bob about and strain at the leash
 

xeitosaphil

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I know these things are quite expensive but its all relative to the cost of replacing ropes due to chafe, and the cost of repairing boat damage.

I actually class them as consumables, is boat damage / rope chafe worth the risk?

if you buy the right size ones of good quality they last quite some time. I actually have steel spring types as well in the bow which have lasted 6 years.

Boats afloat 48wks a year and I like to sleep nights- especially on a day like today with David?
 
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I'm afraid I equate 26 pounds to 6 bottles of 3.99 plonk plus a bag of nuts. But I think I need 3, 2 bow lines plus centre springer. When a small swell gets into marina boats don't half bob about and strain at the leash

Think of it in terms of personal and boat health, a double hit, what’s not to like. Seriously the proper jobs work, the tyres allways look so desperate.
 

Neeves

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Go and find some climbing rope from a climbing wall, who have to retire rope after a specific time period - so you are offering a recycling service (but offer to contribute to the tea fund). I assume Inverness and Aberdeen have climbing walls. Make your mooring lines as long as possible, spring from aft forward etc and outside cleats, rather than the more obvious alongside cleats. The longer lines will give you plenty of elasticity - then you will not need rubber snubbers. If you are twitchy - double up the lines.

But climbing rope offers plenty of elasticity and unless your yacht weighs 20t - more than adequate strength.

Jonathan
 

Gunfleet

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If you are using conventional rope (i.e. not braid) you can thread some shock cord through it with a marlin spike. It works very well.
 

fergie_mac66

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Get a suitable long length and dia of 3 strand and a length of bungy cord say a meter and a half . Pick a part of the three strand where you want the snubber at that place start to wind the end of the bungy into the lay of the 3 strand so it becomes 4 strand you can work the bungy it into the middle of the other three. After a few turns put a whipping at the start of where you started laying the bungy in. Do a good job of the whipping go back and continue to put the bungy in lay , the rope will shorten, continue until all the bungy is in the lay or at least as much as you need then put another whipping on to hold tge end in place . The rope will be shorter and as weight is put on will act as a snubber in 2 ways the rope will stretch whithe tge bungy but also three strand will compress the bungy on its width . The rope will still keep its normal breaking strain . It does not take long to make.
 

RAI

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I've used fergie's solution, it works well for long term morning lines.
A quick temporary dodge is to double the mooring line back and hang a fender between the two lines. As the lines tension they squeeze the fender.
 

RAI

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In really swell ridden harbours, like Santa Cruz de La Parma, it helps to have a bit of chain around the cleat shackled to the snubber line. Rope tends to get chaffed and snapped on the docks cleats.
 

GHA

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In really swell ridden harbours, like Santa Cruz de La Parma, it helps to have a bit of chain around the cleat shackled to the snubber line. Rope tends to get chaffed and snapped on the docks cleats.

Nice big long dyneema soft shackles work well too, take up less cleat space as well.
 
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