NomadAU
New Member
Hello members
The HX on my 4.236 failed a couple of years ago (the main body just corroded away). I managed to get a replacement Bowman but had to fabricate my own fittings to suit the engine. That's now completed but due to other things, like life, getting in the way it's taken me took now to complete the fit. I've now moved my attention to the raw water pump setting as it's been sitting idle with salt water in the system for over 2 years.
I removed the pump and managed to get the old impeller out (after a couple of the bronze face plate screws had sheared off - will have to get a small screw extractor onto those) but am now stumped as to how the test of the pump comes apart. I'd like to replace the bearings and anything else that matters while I've got the pump at home.
The attached pics show different aspects of the pump. The only ID I can see on the casing is JABSCO EFC.
Does anyone know how the bronze pump housing can be separated from the cast iron engine drive part? It looks like it should be possible to drive the shaft out through the rear of the bronze housing - I've tried tapping it but no movement and I'm reluctant to force it anymore for fear of damaging the end of the shaft.
I'm guessing that the bearings will then be visible to be replaced. At the rear of the pump housing I can see a circlip that probably retains a bearing on the shaft, although it's not totally clear from the image, the circlip is not accessible without removing the housing.
One more thing that is a puzzle for me is where is/are the seals to stop the seawater escaping through the gap at the rear of the housing?
Anyhow looking forward to hearing from anyone who might have done this job in the past and can throw me some pointers. Also, it might not be clear from the image but I have removed the bolt that clamps the bronze part to the engine drive part and they are loose enough to rotate - they just don't want to separate.
Cheers
Mike
PS: I've made progress and identified the exact model as JABSCO 10970. Found some parts diagrams that helped me to understand the design.
There's a grub screw that when removed allows an internal part to be removed and this in turn, allows the back plate to be removed thereby giving access to the circlip. I've added some further pictures in case that helps someone else in the same position.
With the circlip now removed, along with the spacer underneath it, it looks like it should be possible to drive/press the shaft out through the rear of the bronze housing.
I've got it soaking in WD40 at the moment to see if that'll free the shaft up from the seals.
PPS: That worked and I was able to use a puller to finally separate the bronze housing from the drive body.
The HX on my 4.236 failed a couple of years ago (the main body just corroded away). I managed to get a replacement Bowman but had to fabricate my own fittings to suit the engine. That's now completed but due to other things, like life, getting in the way it's taken me took now to complete the fit. I've now moved my attention to the raw water pump setting as it's been sitting idle with salt water in the system for over 2 years.
I removed the pump and managed to get the old impeller out (after a couple of the bronze face plate screws had sheared off - will have to get a small screw extractor onto those) but am now stumped as to how the test of the pump comes apart. I'd like to replace the bearings and anything else that matters while I've got the pump at home.
The attached pics show different aspects of the pump. The only ID I can see on the casing is JABSCO EFC.
Does anyone know how the bronze pump housing can be separated from the cast iron engine drive part? It looks like it should be possible to drive the shaft out through the rear of the bronze housing - I've tried tapping it but no movement and I'm reluctant to force it anymore for fear of damaging the end of the shaft.
I'm guessing that the bearings will then be visible to be replaced. At the rear of the pump housing I can see a circlip that probably retains a bearing on the shaft, although it's not totally clear from the image, the circlip is not accessible without removing the housing.
One more thing that is a puzzle for me is where is/are the seals to stop the seawater escaping through the gap at the rear of the housing?
Anyhow looking forward to hearing from anyone who might have done this job in the past and can throw me some pointers. Also, it might not be clear from the image but I have removed the bolt that clamps the bronze part to the engine drive part and they are loose enough to rotate - they just don't want to separate.
Cheers
Mike
PS: I've made progress and identified the exact model as JABSCO 10970. Found some parts diagrams that helped me to understand the design.
There's a grub screw that when removed allows an internal part to be removed and this in turn, allows the back plate to be removed thereby giving access to the circlip. I've added some further pictures in case that helps someone else in the same position.
With the circlip now removed, along with the spacer underneath it, it looks like it should be possible to drive/press the shaft out through the rear of the bronze housing.
I've got it soaking in WD40 at the moment to see if that'll free the shaft up from the seals.
PPS: That worked and I was able to use a puller to finally separate the bronze housing from the drive body.
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