Discoloration of bulkhead in way of stainless steel plate

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Wansworth

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Light rust staining of plywood bulk head which carrys shroud and top mast stay.Looks like staining emanates from behind the s/s plate which could indicate bolts are compromised and ingress of water in core.This is a First 27 built in the late 1970s.Any thoughts on what to do?Apart from that boat looks in good condition,but I don’t want to buy too much trouble,thanks for ideas and if you know what the core material is?
 
Is the water leakage that created the stains current or historical? Ultimately the only way to find out is to remove a few bolts and peer at the inside of the hole and prod it with a screwdriver to see what's going on. Got any pictures?
 
penfold said:
Is the water leakage that created the stains current or historical? Ultimately the only way to find out is to remove a few bolts and peer at the inside of the hole and prod it with a screwdriver to see what's going on. Got any pictures?
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Yes it’s happened over time,will go and have another look as going for a trial sail.There are problems with shielding s/s.
 
vyv_cox said:
Difficult to say without a photo but crevice corrosion behind unsealed fittings is very common. Some pics on my website. Best to remove the plate and apply sealant to prevent ingress of water.
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Not bought the boat yet but worried about s/s shielding of the bolts.I thought maybe an extensition plate once sorted out leak to spread the load further.
 
Boats leak
Old stainless load bearing bolts are always suspect
Fortunately bolts are cheap
And Sikaflex sealant wasn’t available in the 70s but now is ..

But you are thinking along the right lines .. if that’s the rust you can see.. where’s the rest of the water wicked into ? Plywood bulkhead or unsealed core of deck where the chain plate goes through it, very very common
 
Wansworth said:
I think cored decks was quite common then the question with what .The deck seems quite sound tapping as suggested
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Are you sure it is a First 27 ? Maybe there are several different versions by different yacht architects?

The First 27 is a Sam Manuard-Design and has first hit the water in the yaer 2011. The boat was conceived by Andraz Mihelin and his Seascape team to blend the ......

Beneteau First 27 SE / Seascape 27 | :unsure:

I don't know anything about the First 27 yacht but when i read:
First 27 promises a thrilling and pure sailing experience. She is sourcing her performance from a modern hull design and light but stiff vacuum-infused hull construction.

Obviously that is not a cored hull.:rolleyes:
 
coopec said:
Are you sure it is a First 27 ? Maybe there are several different versions by different yacht architects?

The First 27 is a Sam Manuard-Design and has first hit the water in the yaer 2011. The boat was conceived by Andraz Mihelin and his Seascape team to blend the ......

Beneteau First 27 SE / Seascape 27 | :unsure:

I don't know anything about the First 27 yacht but when i read:
First 27 promises a thrilling and pure sailing experience. She is sourcing her performance from a modern hull design and light but stiff vacuum-infused hull construction.

Obviously that is not a cored hull.:rolleyes:
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No it’s by Andre Mauric,first built 1978
 
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coopec said:
The maybe it is a
First 30 / First 30 E
First 30 / First 30 E - Sailing Yacht Heritage For Sale | BENETEAU



Download the general equipment list

Download the brochure

That looks like a nice yacht!

Here are the specs fot the First 30 (1977) Doesn't say anything about "cored hull"

https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/first-30-beneteau-mauric
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No it’s 8 meters Hull loa
PaulRainbow said:
No one said it had a cored hull, in fact, nothing has been said about the hull at all. The chainplate will be fixed through the deck, which will almost certainly be cored.
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thanks,at last?
 
Wansworth said:
thanks,at last?
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I'm not intimately familiar with this particular boat, but it was common practice at that time to have a balsa core, often with no consideration of water ingress damaging the core, they simply drilled through the deck and bolted deck fittings down. It's also possible they might have made the area beneath and around the chainplates solid GRP or a ply core. It would be worth pulling one bolt at a time and poking around in the hole. Needn't be a deal breaker, but it would be good to know and negotiate some discount to cover the cost of repair.
 
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My guess is that the water from the deck will have gotten behind the stainless steel plate and the bolts will have suffered a degree of anaerobic corrosion which will have given rise to the rust stains which are common in such cases.
Where the fitting goes through the deck is another matter and you will have to estimate the extent that water may have penetrated the core, if not too far it can be raked out and replaced by pouring in epoxy. The most common method being by attaching an L shaped piece of bent rod to a drill and rotating the drill at slow speed to break down the mush . Alternatively you will have to cut out either above or below and replace the damaged core with plywood or closed cell foam, plywood being the easiest option I would suggest. Then refit the chain plate. It may sound daunting but it isn't and it's a relatively simple process if the water damage hasn't spread too far.

Sorry missed out that you will have to reglass the surface section you cut out, again not difficult especially if as new appearance is not high on the list.
To check the extent of core damage first try pressure to the area if it gives then the core is soft and it should give you an idea of the extent, the destructive way is by drilling small holes to check for dry/ wet core in the swarf.
 
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Fr J Hackett said:
My guess is that the water from the deck will have gotten behind the stainless steel plate and the bolts will have suffered a degree of anaerobic corrosion which will have given rise to the rust stains which are common in such cases.
Where the fitting goes through the deck is another matter and you will have to estimate the extent that water may have penetrated the core, if not too far it can be raked out and replaced by pouring in epoxy. The most common method being by attaching an L shaped piece of bent rod to a drill and rotating the drill at slow speed to break down the mush . Alternatively you will have to cut out either above or below and replace the damaged core with plywood or closed cell foam, plywood being the easiest option I would suggest. Then refit the chain plate. It may sound daunting but it isn't and it's a relatively simple process if the water damage hasn't spread too far.
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Are next viewing to have a trial sail next week. i
I will take a small hammer and tap around to see it it’s sound the seller didn’t seem to know much about it or was feigning ignorance?not keen on surgery to be truthful,in all other respects it looks well kept
 
Wansworth said:
Are next viewing to have a trial sail next week. i
I will take a small hammer and tap around to see it it’s sound the seller didn’t seem to know much about it or was feigning ignorance?not keen on surgery to be truthful,in all other respects it looks well kept
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You will check better with pressure to see if the deck deforms locally as you press but whatever you are going to have to sort out the deck leak properly, no just pumping sikaflex in!
 
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