Dinghy query #2, or is it #9?: Centreboard, loose in its case

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Greenheart

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My centreboard rattles about quite a lot in its raised position...which I recognise doesn't matter at all...and I haven't yet tried it, lowered...

...but I've found some little ply wedges on a string beside the case, and since I don't see any other purpose for them, I'm expecting the previous owner fashioned them to hold the board in position when sailing. I'd have thought the centreboard ought only to move around its hub as designed, without also rattling several degrees either side of fore & aft, so I'm hoping there's a cure.

I'll try to remove the board today to give it a close inspection...might it be possible to add shims on the pivot-bar, so the board isn't loose?
 
dancrane said:
My centreboard rattles about quite a lot in its raised position...which I recognise doesn't matter at all...and I haven't yet tried it, lowered...

...but I've found some little ply wedges on a string beside the case, and since I don't see any other purpose for them, I'm expecting the previous owner fashioned them to hold the board in position when sailing. I'd have thought the centreboard ought only to move around its hub as designed, without also rattling several degrees either side of fore & aft, so I'm hoping there's a cure.

I'll try to remove the board today to give it a close inspection...might it be possible to add shims on the pivot-bar, so the board isn't loose?
Click to expand...

They are not meant to go in at deck level on the mast as mast chocks are they, to control the bend of the mast?
 
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505 had a gybing cb. Wedges used to set board to angle of centre line of boat.
Any pics Dan?
 
Remember my centreboard - one of the first laminated wood ones - being a very close fit.

Agree the wedges on a bit of string are probably to adjust mast rake. You put the required size in before you tighten up the jib. They are tied on because they have a habit of flying out when you (inevitably if I am at the helm) capsize.
 
Perfectly correct, gentlemen, thank you...

...I put the mast up today (quite a struggle with interfering branches overhead)...and the wedges do indeed slot neatly into the space ahead of the mast.

I haven't had the boat off the trailer, so I can't remove the centreboard yet. I'm hoping for a reasonably dry, reasonably warm day when I can start early, roll the boat onto her side and fill some of the scratches on her undersides. The keel-band needs fixing, and the flanges across the centreboard slot are ragged.

Will I do the Osprey any harm if I haul on one shroud, to heave her over in the dinghy-park? I can't count on assistance. I probably could lift one sidedeck three feet off the ground and wedge it...but I can't persuade her to balance on one rail while I run round to prop up the mast at the hounds. I've seen Wayfarers 'capsized' ashore for maintenance, but I'm not so sure about lighter designs.
 
Properly padded it's fine. Just make sure you have some rig tension on so you don't risk bending the mast.
 
Rather than haul on a shroud, I would suggest using a halyard (best not to use the main as the masthead will be unstayed)
 
Yes you can lay her over, just have a rubber tyre handy to slide on the tip of the mast also a good idea for some protection beneath the gunwale to save scoring the side of the hull.

There used to be a Melinex /melamine film used to keep the c/b slot closed and also to give a smooth entry to the leading and edges of the foil when lowered in half third or full positions. To fit this it means lifting the metal strip each side of the slot.
Incidentally, drill a round hole at each end of the slot ,then cut the slit, this will help prevent tearing as the board is raised and lowered.

As an aside, I used to have an old Merlin that I took out in very strong winds with an old suit of sails. The boat flew downwind and a jet of water used to shoot out of the c/b case in a powerful jet and almost cleared the transom,but meant bailing or having the transom flaps set open, but terrific fun. We fixed that by doing the above mod.

Regarding the slapping of the board in the case I've seen and sailed a dinghy that had some flat sheet glued within the casing either side of the board; the material was a formica (perhaps tufnol in those days )and fitted for just that reason.


ianat182
 
I would urge you to read the links I posted to the Osprey forum. It details padding the centreboard to fill the casing (with Formica).

I fitted a new diaphragm to the centre-board slot on my Solo. It was secured by the keel bands. Steve Goacher made it for £10. It's made from dacron silcloth doubled over and tensioned with tabs during fixing, which are trimmed off afterwards.

CentreboardGasketFitting.jpg


CentreboardGasketFitting3.jpg


CentreboardGasketFitting4.jpg
 
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Here's the pic I'd seen, of the Wayfarer...I guess if the boat is exactly vertical on its side, strain on the rig is minimal...though the mast needs securing.

Thanks for all the advice.

That's very slick work on the Solo, Lakey. I'll definitely look hard at the Osprey forum, thanks for the link.

I was expecting a pin to secure the mast base on its track, but there's no obvious way to. Is it right that the mast is only held in place by the tension of the stays? More relevantly perhaps, I was surprised that the boom doesn't 'lock' on to the gooseneck...is it only held in place by tension from the vang/outhaul?

Some accident befell the boat in the fairly recent past...I believe the mast fell back, crunching through the thwart. The mend isn't particularly visible, but parts of the GRP of the thwart are flaking quite badly underneath. Is that best solved with something like a teak bar, glassed into the underside to add stiffness?

No shortage of nasty-looking small cracks below the 3"-wide overhang of the side-deck...as if an absolute giant had tried trapezing. There's rust around the screws that secure the chainplate under the sidedeck too. If I clean-up/sand down these areas then use the gelcoat repair, will I be just kidding myself it's fixed? Is it likely only to be a cosmetic improvement?

Not that it's falling apart...the thwart withstood the weight of my reluctant 'crew' in that absurd hat...

View attachment 30340

...that colour will have to go, though. The green is coming off in many small areas, and I'd much prefer plain white.
 
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Dan

Mast track...there should be a pin (or pins) to stop the mast sliding backwards and forwards in the track, however the pins dont go through the mast heel...so yes, if you turned the boat upside down with no shrouds, the mast would drop out. However the standing rigging will keep it in place.

Gooseneck...yes it's loose. Hoist the main to the top first, and then put the boom on the gooseneck, not the other way. Don't worry, it won't fall off. BTW if your sails are old, unpick the bottom 8" of stitching on the bolt rope, let it go up the luff, and restitch. Behold, flatter sails.

Green...if that's the gelcoat colour, just go with it. Your paint will scratch and the green will show through very quickly.

Another tip, if you want to "progrip" the side decks, this will hide all the cracks on your gunwales and aid trapezing grip. But don't buy from a chandlery, it's the same stuff that is used in the orthopaedics industry and is available much cheaper from a company called algeos, and is sold as "lunasoft SL". I'll give you some more tips for application when you've got it...
 
That green will sure make you stand out from the crowd. Item in the paper today bemoaning the fact that most people paint the inside walls of their houses white or beige and advocating more use of bold colours. Same with boats - you could be a trend setter!
 
Some great points there, thanks Iain! I should have added that there are pins preventing the mast foot from moving back & forth in the track, but they wouldn't prevent it dropping out during inversion, if the shrouds failed...not that I anticipate anything so calamitous during my tenure.

I haven't hoisted the sails yet, but thanks for the luff-track-first advice...

...I suspect even the new set is fairly old, so some work on the older set might be a good plan. Wouldn't a slightly convex line along the foot, following the aerofoil shape, further reduce bagginess? I'd be tempted to add a deepish reef-point too, as Seajet said Vern's Osprey main has.

The fact that green paint is flaking off in many areas with something pale showing through, leads me to think the gelcoat isn't so 'loud'. And while I too prefer a degree of individuality, that ranine green is a shade too noticeable for my taste. I may review that decision if removing the rest of the green is harder!

I certainly have thought about Progrip, and been halted by the price, so I'll look up 'Lunasoft SL'. I know it's only meant for areas where trapezing crew will step precariously...but when Treadmaster is £60 per square meter, I could entertain the idea of covering everything with a cheaper pimply rubber...

...although I'll probably go for paint, with a strip of Progrip on the rail...in red maybe? But I saw this picture, which has me dreaming of teak again...:rolleyes:

View attachment 30349

...I need to focus on sailing the boat, not changing her...
 
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PS, regarding the rust, appearing around the chainplate-reinforcement under the sidedeck...is it simply a matter of unscrewing the fitting, scrubbing or rubbing off the stains, and replacing the rusted screws with...bronze? Stainless? I was surprised that any metal that's subject to serious corrosion had been used in such a load-bearing duty.

Here's a pic that shows my absence of forethought...new square-section rowlock-support; old rounded deck-edge. The round peg, square hole...:rolleyes:

View attachment 30348

...I might try a removable clamp-on support which'll leave the sidedecks clear when I'm not rowing...may reduce the scornful noises, too...
 
The fastenings may well be 304 grade rather than 316. Rust coloured staining is not unusual. Take them all out and if there is no sign or corrosion in the threads clean them up and refasten using sealer. If replacing get 316 grade.
 
How about some pictures of your new pride and joy... must be modern if its GRP :)

Mine was wooden sail number 110 and bright yellow so I approve of your colour - anyone come across it in passing?

Interesting to see there is a cruising forum on the osprey website.

Good luck and enjoy
 
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