Dinghy oars

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Humblebee

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I've had a few inflatables over the years - as I am sure many of us have - and the weak point with all of them seems to be the oars. Any I have had weaken then break at the joint where the two aluminium tubes join together and I don't know how to pick a stronger pair - they all look the same.
My present improvised solution is thin aluminium strips around the join held in place with Jubilee clips but I wonder if anyone has a better solution or suggestions for a more robust pair?
Thanks.
 
My early 80's Zodiac had relatively good oars, wooden 2 part with ISTR stainless steel sleeved joint.

However they attached to the dinghy by a pivot pin which meant a fixed stroke, no sliding the oar in and out.
 
Maybe buy some anodised tube and re-use the blades?

Do many people manage to break ali dinghy oars?
 
Humblebee said:
I've had a few inflatables over the years - as I am sure many of us have - and the weak point with all of them seems to be the oars. Any I have had weaken then break at the joint where the two aluminium tubes join together and I don't know how to pick a stronger pair - they all look the same.
My present improvised solution is thin aluminium strips around the join held in place with Jubilee clips but I wonder if anyone has a better solution or suggestions for a more robust pair?
Thanks.
Click to expand...

I would not expect these to break

jie06h.jpg


nwc9dv.jpg
 
Humblebee said:
I've had a few inflatables over the years - as I am sure many of us have - and the weak point with all of them seems to be the oars. Any I have had weaken then break at the joint where the two aluminium tubes join together and I don't know how to pick a stronger pair - they all look the same.
My present improvised solution is thin aluminium strips around the join held in place with Jubilee clips but I wonder if anyone has a better solution or suggestions for a more robust pair?
Click to expand...

What sort of rowlocks do you have? Will they take traditional wooden oars (in which case they'd be a good bet) or do you need oars with proprietary fixings to suit the dinghy?
 
pvb said:
No, but they won't work with many inflatables.
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It's one of the few reasons I persevere with my heavy old roll away Avon. I find there's lots of situations where I can row it with its stout wooden oars without bothering with the outboard.

On our last long cruise, we had an Avon Redstart and had the original oars stolen in Maine of all places. I went to the local fishermans' cooperative and got a simple pair of 7ft grey primed dory oars that then stood us in good stead for the next five years. Cost about $15 and were still in their grey primer when we sold the boat years later.
 
johnalison said:
No, but the wood swells up and they become a pain to get apart. The later ones with plastic articulation are much better, if less chic.
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No because the joint is stainless steel both parts. Look at the pictures.

The light yellow/brown parts with a wood grain pattern are wood but the bright shiny silvery colour parts are stainless steel.
 
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Humblebee said:
I've had a few inflatables over the years - as I am sure many of us have - and the weak point with all of them seems to be the oars. Any I have had weaken then break at the joint where the two aluminium tubes join together and I don't know how to pick a stronger pair - they all look the same.
My present improvised solution is thin aluminium strips around the join held in place with Jubilee clips but I wonder if anyone has a better solution or suggestions for a more robust pair?
Thanks.
Click to expand...

Never had the problem you describe. Rinse well regularly after use, minimal corrosion, minimum wear. The Pvc dinghy material usually gives up before the oars for me. But then again, I am in a hot sunny climate. How well do you look after your oars or do you just leave them unrinsed and unmaintained all year? Or are the oars just garbage to start with. Sorry but I just don't relate to the problem you describe.
 
BabaYaga said:
In my experience they eventually break due to being weakened by corrosion.
oars.jpg
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Those seem to have broken due to a crap design that traps water under the plastic sleeve and a stress-raising hole at the most stressed point.
Breaking dinghy oars have safety implications in my world.
Find something better.
 
lw395 said:
Those seem to have broken due to a crap design that traps water under the plastic sleeve and a stress-raising hole at the most stressed point.
Breaking dinghy oars have safety implications in my world.
Find something better.
Click to expand...

I agree about the design and the safety implications, especially as I have no outboard.
It should be said that this happened after more than 15 years of use.
Finding something better is not trivial.
In my world this type of oars is now something that is replaced at regular intervals.
 
The other option is to repair them so that they are stronger than new.
A 6 inch long internal sleeve of heavier gauge perhaps?
Then replace the plastic with a covering of glass tape and epoxy?
Maybe modify the rowlocks so they don't need a hole through the oar?
My ancient Bombard has oars which slide through closed rowlocks. The orignal oars are still OK, but I mostly use a slightly longer pair.
 
Thanks all, some useful tips and good advice there.
I don't have access to water where I keep my dinghy so not practical to hose after use.
The problem I have had is one I have experienced with other makes and replacement oars - perhaps I am just in too big a hurry to get my dog ashore or back onboard for a nightcap?
The collars that fit over the sleeve look interesting - thanks.
Lastly, the idea of changing to wooden oars appeals to me and I might give it a go. Only difficulty is my dinghy (Plastimo 230) has the common upright bolt style of rowlock, designed to go through the hollow aluminium handle. Modifying a wooden oar to fit might be tricky - worth a go though.
 
VicS said:
No because the joint is stainless steel both parts. Look at the pictures.

The light yellow/brown parts with a wood grain pattern are wood but the bright shiny silvery colour parts are stainless steel.
Click to expand...

You might think the s/s ones would be immune but it wasn't our experience with two or three pairs, although on thinking about it the early '70s ones were plated metal of some kind. I've still got several part-sets in the garage and none or the metal/steel sheathed ones were easy. I usually ended up having to sand them down and grease them when in use.
 
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