Difficulty getting it up.....................and then down again !

C

ChrisKaye

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Sorry to post it on here as well but I didnt get many responses (well two) on the PBO forum

I've had a problem with my electric windlass which I've managed to get around by getting one of the kids to tap the electric motor while I hit the up / down button, but lately its taken what seemed like ages to get the anchor up /down (lots of hitting for not much movement). Getting a sparky in the Isle of Wight is an absolute nightmare (not sure if they can be bothered really!) so Im going to attempt to do it myself.

Someone suggested that it may be the brushes that need replacing, so they are on order and I plan to attempt this next time I am down there. Is it a simple job to do myself, would it be easist to take the motor off and bring it home to do it, if I undo the motor from the rest will it all spring apart and bits go flying all over the place or can the brushes be changed with the motor in situ.

Windlass motor is of course difficult to get to without being a contortionist, as you have to get your head down into the anchor locker which then means you cant see anything
 
Lofrans Airon 500W with the drum up on top. All looks very clean below with no sign of corrosion. May have been on boat since new (do these things last that long 16years ??)
 
I have the same winch with the same problem, I replaced all the wiring, relays, buttons etc.. and it worked fine for about 10 minutes, I haven't tried tapping it.
When it stopped working I put an multimeter between earth and one of the feeds to the motor, it reads about 700ohms(too high), it was about 3ohms when working. As it don't work in either direction I think the common earth connection in the motor is dodgy, could be the brushes or the internal wire termination, it will need stripping to find out. Brushes would be nice and cheap and can be cleaned up, however getting it off seems to be the challenge, even if I just wanted to throw it away, I've undone all the nuts but everything is seized in solid, arrgh... /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif let me know if you have any luck getting yours out.
 
Bum, I was hoping someone has done this before. Heard conflicting ideas of removing end cap and fitting brushes, but then someone else said I would have to remove the motor, so not sure which is required. Bloody small hole to work in as well and not easy to get to the motor as when you've got your hands in there, you cant get your head in and vice versa
 
Have no personal knowledge of problem but from sound of it there is a mechanical difficulty, tapping is 'freeing' a bind. The high reading is caused because of a bind ? dont know just a thought. I assume you have lubricated the gearbox?
 
Check bearings if accessible. A dribble of 3 in 1 may help, there could be a titchy bit of grit.
Check commutator, the bit the brushes touch. Should be bright copper with gaps not choked with carbon deposits. If mucky then clean it very carefully.
Check brushes, should be plenty of length so that the sping keeps them bearing well on the commutator.
Check the switch resistance when its closed, should be virtually zero and infinite when open.
 
Hi Chris,

I had a similar problem with mine and after a total strip down no change.

Would work for 10 m and then trip over and over again.

I then realized as I tapped it I was knocking the chain in the locker out of the way.

I moved half the chain to the side and it has worked fine ever since.

The pile of chain in the locker was stopping any more getting in.
 
Hi Pete
Thanks will have a look at that this coming weekend, hope it is as easy, got brushes on order just in case but not looking forward to doing it as I get dizzy looking upside down ! Perhaps if I have a few drinks first
 
Had the same problem, it was the brushes. A load of carbon dust meant they were sticking instead of sliding.........
All cleaned out, now works a treat.

After 16 years it wouldn't hurt to stick new ones in, although the hours of actual use they've had is probably very low for a powerful motor.
 
EC Smith say there's a rubber cover over the end and it can be done without removing, other chap (who rebuilds them) Ive spoken to says remove the motor first so not sure and I cant remember what was there
 
I've only had my boat 18 months and those 2 nuts are missing, think someone was trying to remove it before and gave up, I've tried twisting and hitting the motor and it won't budge, i think this is going to be one of those jobs /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif on mine you can't get to the rubber cover over the end of the motor as its facing the forepeak. The schematic doesn't show anything else holding it in place though?
 
Yes quite... /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif in my experience with too many previous old boats, electric motors always need stripping and the commutator + brushes cleaning, whether its water pumps, bilge pumps, windscreen wipers, shower pumps etc... they just don't get enough use, at least we know with some certainty though what the problem is.
 
Im sure mine is located across the boat (starboard to port if you know what I mean) so its easier to get to (although anchor hatch folds back, which makes it more difficult).

So can it be done just by removing the rubber cover and fiddling about there or is it def remove motor first ??
 
It might be possible, I haven't seen the actual brush setup, however in my experience of other motors there are always lots of little springs and things, so much easier when on the bench and even then a bit fiddly. I don't think this is quick fix job I'm afraid.
 
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