Diesel Tank manufacture - DIY

[stevebirch2002]

I am thinking of making my own fuel tank from stainless steel. I need to know the specifics that should be incorporated. Needs to hold about 50 litres. SHaped to the side of the hull. What baffles do I need, connections, thickness of steel etc etc. Any help appreciated. The stainless steel and welding not a problem, just need the expertise of what exactly is needed.

Many thanks all

 

[Talbot]

recommend that you make a mock-up from mdf beforehand. This will guarantee that you can actually fit the finished product without further surgery to boat, and also provide an accurate cutting template. With my new tank - plastic (Tek tanks) I took this approach cause getting ot into position was the toughest dimensional challenge. I used a tank inspection hatch on the top, through which are all the lines (air vent, fuel up, fuel return etc) thus reducing the number of other holes necessary, and providing a cleaning hatch. I shaped the tank so that the dimensions reduced for the last few gallons to improve fuel flow in those conditions.

BTW, tek tanks have these plastic inspection hatches with all the in/out lines already part of the moulding, which might provide the easiest solution to this part of the problem.

 

[cliff]

[ QUOTE ]
I am thinking of making my own fuel tank from stainless steel. I need to know the specifics that should be incorporated. Needs to hold about 50 litres. SHaped to the side of the hull. What baffles do I need, connections, thickness of steel etc etc. Any help appreciated. The stainless steel and welding not a problem, just need the expertise of what exactly is needed.

Many thanks all

[/ QUOTE ]If I was making another fuel tank I would proceed as follows.
Make a cardboard mock-up of the tank and ensure it could be fitted without major surgery to the boat.
Make sure allowance has been made for valves etc.
Fit a sump (½ gal) to the bottom of the tank to allow draining of water, sludge and debris.
Slope bottom of tank towards opening for sump.
Material 1.6~2mm SS316L
Baffles - not really required - sail boat and small tank.
Where possible press crossed ridges in the panels for added stiffness.
Fuel pick up above sump opening by 1~1½".
A good idea if space allows is to put all pipes through a removable cover / hatch but obviously vertical clearance is needed for their removal.
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[William_H]

As cliff says it is vital to have a place for the water to collect. A vee shaped bottom lower at one end is good. You need a drain pipe at this point or a tube taken to this point for draining the bottom sediment. For an aircraft standard you need 1/2% of the total capacity as water trap. More would be better as aircraft are checked for water every flight This is fuel or capacity the main take off can not access but which can be drained off. have an access port through which you can mop out the last bit of gunge. A vee shaped bottom ensures the fuel always covers the outlet pipe while a flat bottom is the worst shape. Don't go too big on tank size as an excess capacity not filled invites water condensation entry. good luck olewill

 

[adelaidem]

try and fit your tank above ur diesel or in the centre line if possible.

 

[steve28]

a friend of mine had a new stainless tank made, the maker assured him he would not need baffles. He accepted this and the tank was installed under the cabin floor, all you could hear at night was the fuel slopping around in the tank.

he took the tank out (major work) and returned it to the fabricator who cut slots in the top and slid baffles in in a diagonal cross pattern.

hope this helps you decide

steve