Diesel tank coming out this weekend - hints

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Swanrad2

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After making sure its OK inside (maybe, re-coating if it needs it) the outside will need wire brushing back, the mild steel treating and re-painting. I will probably replace the tap as well.

Questions -
Can I angle grind it with a wire brush attachment (inevitable sparks) or is this stupid? Clearly if it was petrol I wouldn't be asking, but diesel?
Can I safely weld a couple of new feet onto it as the old ones looks a bit part their best?

Clearly in both cases the tank will be emptied.

Cheers
 
Swanrad2 said:
After making sure its OK inside (maybe, re-coating if it needs it) the outside will need wire brushing back, the mild steel treating and re-painting. I will probably replace the tap as well.

Questions -
Can I angle grind it with a wire brush attachment (inevitable sparks) or is this stupid? Clearly if it was petrol I wouldn't be asking, but diesel?
Can I safely weld a couple of new feet onto it as the old ones looks a bit part their best?

Clearly in both cases the tank will be emptied.

Cheers
Click to expand...

As long as it is drained and reasonably vented a few sparks from a grinder brush will be fine. For welding I would rinse out with a strong detergent or solvent cleaner first, mostly to reduce carbonisation of the interior surface.
 
People are killed every year working on supposedly safe diesel tanks.

Try Googling " diesel fuel tank explodes when welded " for examples.

The safest thing to do is to fill it with water. Empty tanks are the most dangerous.

Putting my HASAW hat on if you have to ask about this you should not be doing it. Even the pro's have accidents.
 
TQA said:
People are killed every year working on supposedly safe diesel tanks.

Try Googling " diesel fuel tank explodes when welded " for examples.

The safest thing to do is to fill it with water. Empty tanks are the most dangerous.

Putting my HASAW hat on if you have to ask about this you should not be doing it. Even the pro's have accidents.
Click to expand...
Sound advice here hence +1
 
TQA said:
People are killed every year working on supposedly safe diesel tanks.

Try Googling " diesel fuel tank explodes when welded " for examples.

The safest thing to do is to fill it with water. Empty tanks are the most dangerous.

Putting my HASAW hat on if you have to ask about this you should not be doing it. Even the pro's have accidents.
Click to expand...
Filling with water does not evacuate all residual fumes. when partially drained to enable welding there will be a void above the water in which fumes can gather. I have the tee shirt dated 1978
 
Have you considered replacing your steel tank with an off the shelf plastic tank? Assuming you can get one of the correct size for your space. My very large steel fuel tank, about 40 gallons had obviously been leaking when I bought the boat so decided to replace with plastic. The tank had obviously been placed in position before fitting the engine and deck so had to be cut into 3 pieces to get it out, I used a reciprocating saw which did a brilliant and quick job, but did have to rotate it to get all the way round. The tank had obviously been leaking for some time and someone had tried pouring epoxy or something to try and cure leaks.
I fitted a Plastimo tank of 19 gallons which is more than adequate giving almost 24 hours motoring.
Advantages are - no corrosion, can see fuel level. never leaks, should last for a long time, can fit a fuel gauge if wanted. Very pleased I did it. Suppliers are Plastimo, TekTanks, Vetus and an Italian make.
 
Indeed

sailorman said:
Filling with water does not evacuate all residual fumes. when partially drained to enable welding there will be a void above the water in which fumes can gather. I have the tee shirt dated 1978
Click to expand...

I would have worked on the assumption that it was not safe to weld and used plastic metal unless told otherwise and reverted to a wire brush. Sounds like a plan.
 
I have a very rusty tank, 1000 litre. It's 37 years old, made of 5mm steel. I can take it out, have it shot blasted, zinc sprayed and two part epoxied for £64 a sq metre. This will cost £470, exactly the cost of two new plastic 500 litre Tek tanks, excluding fittings and fillers. (The exact copy of my tank from Tek is £2300 excluding fittings). Its a no brainer for me, except that these jobs always grow arms and legs once started.
 
PetiteFleur said:
Have you considered replacing your steel tank with an off the shelf plastic tank? Assuming you can get one of the correct size for your space. My very large steel fuel tank, about 40 gallons had obviously been leaking when I bought the boat so decided to replace with plastic. The tank had obviously been placed in position before fitting the engine and deck so had to be cut into 3 pieces to get it out, I used a reciprocating saw which did a brilliant and quick job, but did have to rotate it to get all the way round. The tank had obviously been leaking for some time and someone had tried pouring epoxy or something to try and cure leaks.
I fitted a Plastimo tank of 19 gallons which is more than adequate giving almost 24 hours motoring.
Advantages are - no corrosion, can see fuel level. never leaks, should last for a long time, can fit a fuel gauge if wanted. Very pleased I did it. Suppliers are Plastimo, TekTanks, Vetus and an Italian make.
Click to expand...

+ 1. Or even get a new s/steel tank made if the shape is odd. Mild steel tanks will go eventually, and the law of maximum embuggerment says they'll do it at the worst possible moment. In my case, the day before the new owner took possession!
 
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