Delaminated cockpit table

[Ian_Edwards]

The cockpit table on the Southerly 46 is a cunning device it folds up and then drops down into the cockpit floor, using a mechanism akin to an ironing board. However, this means that it is exposed to the elements and the recess in the cockpit floor often fills with water when the drain gets blocked.
The table has started to delaminate, probably because it has been wet for extended periods. I’ve started to deconstruct it for repair, and apart from a bodged attempt to seal it with what looks like Selaflex by the previous owner, I found square section aluminium rods embedded in the table to take the table leaf hinges.

View attachment 40567View attachment 40565

These are probably the source of the initial leak, the aluminium has corroded and expanded, it also made getting the set screws out very difficult. I broke two, No 2 posidrive bits and had to drill 7 of the 24 setscrews out.
I’m thinking of removing all of the aluminium bars, which I guess are there to strengthen the table leafs, and replace them with epoxy thickened with micro fibres, cast into the recesses in the foam core. I’ll then drill pilot holes in the epoxy and fix the hinges with say 1 ½ inch, A4, No 10, CS self-tapping screws.
I’ll glue the teak face back on with seawater proof PVA adhesive.

Will the epoxy/microfiber mix be strong enough?

Is waterproof PVA the best adhesive to use glue the teak back on?

Is there a better approach?

 

[Blueboatman]

Can you fit an additional wee drain from the table sump?

What about using a different non ferrous metal section, one of the bronzes ( ok it will add weight and a few ££) from a metal merchant ?. Perhaps a tad smaller and bed it in epoxy to seal the wood.

 

[Ian_Edwards]

Thanks for the reply.

There's already a reasonable sized drain in the table sump, the problem is that it blocked quite quickly with the debris which naturally collects on the cockpit floor, especially in the winter, when I'm not around that often to clear it.

I don't want to have another set of dis-similar metals to fizz away when they get wet. I can easily cut away the foam core and make a bigger volume to make a bigger epoxy reinforcing plug, which might be a better option than just epoxy fingers.

 

[Blueboatman]

Sure. Bronze and s/steel won't fizz tho. But there are many, many of each. Heres one periodic table link) though it may be info overload (!) : http://corrosion-doctors.org/Definitions/galvanic-series.htm

Best of luck. Most of these things are often over engineered anyway.. Wonder if Northshore have modified 'em?

 

[rogerthebodger]

I would replace the Aluminium with stainless steel and use polyurethane wood glue to fix the de lamination.

 

[nigelmercier]

Do you really want a teak surface? I put Formica on my saloon table, very pleased with the result.

 

[Ian_Edwards]

Nigel, the teak forms part of the cockpit floor when the table is folded and lowered. When it's in the raised position and unfolded the surface isn't quite Formica, but it is a wipe clean plastic surface.

View attachment 40576

Table in raised position

 

[Hadenough]

These tables are a great idea but are doomed to disaster with timber. I'd recommend Trespa http://www.trespa.com/uk/products for the base material with the deck material glued on with epoxy or similar. It's bloody expensive and a pig to work (you won't cut it with any cheap saws but it routs beautifully). Benefit is it is totally rot proof, sling what you like at it and it just wipes off. I've used the 16mm Toplab stuff to great success for a windlass base and exposed locker lid.

 

[Ian_Edwards]

Hadenough.
[/QUOTE] I've used the 16mm Toplab stuff to great success for a windlass base and exposed locker lid.[/QUOTE]

Where did you buy it from? A small sheet of 16mm would be all I'd need.

 

[Hadenough]

Sorry, just seen this! The material I have been using was left over from a lab refurb that I managed before I retired but we sourced it in Birmingham. Can't remember where sorry but the UK office from their link is in Edgbaston, Birmingham. It's not cheap. If you can find a contractor doing laboratory or clean room work. You may get an offcut but they tend to use the drabber greys and whites.

Her you go. http://www.trespa.com/uk/contacts#contact=contact-node-701

 

[Ian_Edwards]

Thanks, I've acquired numerous useful bits like that myself, before I retired. I'll phone them in the morning and see if I can source a bit from them, or find a distributor who might be able to help

I could always use marine ply and soak it in epoxy, but I'm reluctant to do that, I think it wouldn't take long for the ply to get sodden. I'd prefer something more inert and durable.