Definitive Guide to painting wooden hulls & decks ...

Watson47

Watson47

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Searches throw up an absolute mass of information, but I wondered if there are any recomendations from this solid knowledge base, for a definitive guide to painting wooden hulls and decks .. ?

.... i.e ... sound advice regarding stripping back, preparation and painting in such ways that will contribute to the conservation and longevity of a wooden vessel.

In my particular case, double diagonal mahogany hull, double diagonal mahogany deck, with additional overlaid longitudnal mahagony planks.
 
most of what I'm putting into practice I gleaned from a variety of boat builders and old timers in the fishing industry. One thing that that article misses perhaps is what sort of wood are we painting. different woods might prefer different processes. (Pansy is larch on oak) Also talked to shepherd marine - distributors of Jotun, incredibly helpful, and didn't try to sell me the most expensive paint, but what they viewed as best, which was also one of the cheapest

any hoo....burnt all the paint off, roughly sanded, and whilst the timber has been left exposed, there's been a coat of boat soup applied - coal tar (creosote), paraffin and linseed oil mixed in equal parts

personally I reckon this is/has been doing the wood more good than anything that gets put on top.

2 coats of aluminium based primer, and ultimately there'l be 4 or 5 top coats.

primer and first couple of coats of top coat applied with a roller, subsequent coats have been applied with a good quality brush
 
Watson47 said:
Searches throw up an absolute mass of information, but I wondered if there are any recomendations from this solid knowledge base, for a definitive guide to painting wooden hulls and decks .. ?

.... i.e ... sound advice regarding stripping back, preparation and painting in such ways that will contribute to the conservation and longevity of a wooden vessel.

In my particular case, double diagonal mahogany hull, double diagonal mahogany deck, with additional overlaid longitudnal mahagony planks.
Click to expand...

There isn't a "definitive" method only a set of choices dependent on many variables, your skills and the depth of your pocket!

They range in simplicity and cost from "traditional" enamels through two pack polyurethanes to sprayed two packs, with the potential for using epoxy as a sealer for some systems.

With your construction method which genrally leads to a stable substrate (as opposed to a more flexible clinker or carvel structure) you could use any of them. Generally they all need the surface to be prepared and multiple coats of primer/undercoat/topcoat applied. The actual system you use will depend on the level of finish you desire and the life before re-finishing is required.

Very good results can be achieved working in the open with "conventional" paints such as Toplac which is easily applied, can give a good gloss and last 5 years or more. At the other end of the spectrum a sprayed finish with Awlgrip requires working under cover and following a precise process, but assuming the substrate is sound and even gives a fantastic long lived finish - at a high price.

Whatever you choose, follow the manufacturers instructions exactly.

Personally I am a fan of Toplac, having used it since it came out 15 years or so ago, and I think if you asked the helpful International technical department that would probably be their recommendation for your boat.

There are of course many other manufacturers who will give you recommendations and you have to assess those on their merits against your expectations.
 
Not an expert on wooden boat painting really. I've done varnish on clinker and paint on a ply boat.
A wooden boat restorer at the Steamboat Museum (Adrian Stone) is doing his own boat as well. He was spraying it the other month and I asked if that was the best method. He told me that it was a high-build primer, but that he would be applying the topcoat with a brush.
I'd use a roller myself.

sprayingboat.jpg
 
Whatever you do, don't try and paint outside. You'll either spend half of every day pulling covers on and off, or attract every flying beast from three counties. If you can't get the boat inside, it'll be worth building a 'tent' over the top. Glaring lighting also helps spot runs & holidays.

Less than impressive masking above.
 
Tranona said:
There isn't a "definitive" method only a set of choices dependent on many variables, your skills and the depth of your pocket!



Personally I am a fan of Toplac, having used it since it came out 15 years or so ago, and I think if you asked the helpful International technical department that would probably be their recommendation for your boat.

There are of course many other manufacturers who will give you recommendations and you have to assess those on their merits against your expectations.
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I agree with the above - the technical help and literature from International is excellent and should help you choose a 'scheme' for your boat. Toplac is excellent for topsides and upper works, used it for years too. Interdeck on deck areas that have foot traffic.

In my experience it is the preparation and then, painting conditions, that are key. Paint is expensive and it is worth the effort to get a good job that will last a few seasons. If I were you I would not be planning a big strip and re-paint job of your boat outdoors in the UK in October.. Best to sheet her up well to keep out the winter weather (if possible) and plan the job over March/April or May which (I feel) are better months for outdoor boat painting.
Hope this helps.
 
There is no definitive work on paint that I know of (I have an old Royal Navy painter's guide but times have changed!) - the paint companies do good basic leaflets. Michael Verney's books are good. The guildance in Claud Worth's "Yacht Cruising" is 100 years old but if you apply common sense it is still very good. Francis Cooke and Eric Hiscock both touch on it.

However, there definitely is a "bible" when it comes to varnish - Rebecca Wittman's "Brightwork", published by International Marine in the States but available here, is absolutely comprehensive and very clear - its also fascinating - did you know that varnish makers were not allowed in medieval towns, or that 18th century carriage varnishes could take a week to dry between coats!
 
Pianting with a Chamois cloth?

I have recently bought a Chamois cloth for the car windscreen and on the packaging it says: Ideal for drying paintwork to leave a streak free finish.

I never knew you could use a chami to leave a streak free finish - intrigued as it it does not expand on this further on the packaging
 
Roach1948 said:
I have recently bought a Chamois cloth for the car windscreen and on the packaging it says: Ideal for drying paintwork to leave a streak free finish.

I never knew you could use a chami to leave a streak free finish - intrigued as it it does not expand on this further on the packaging
Click to expand...

I've always had one in my painting kit - I rub down using wet or dry paper used wet with a trace of detergent in the water then rinse off and wipe down with the chamois leather between coats.
 
I have recently bought a Chamois cloth for the car windscreen and on the packaging it says: Ideal for drying paintwork to leave a streak free finish.

I never knew you could use a chami to leave a streak free finish - intrigued as it it does not expand on this further on the packaging
Click to expand...

If you wash your car and dry it with a Chamois, it leaves a streak free finish.
 
Roach1948 said:
I have recently bought a Chamois cloth for the car windscreen and on the packaging it says: Ideal for drying paintwork to leave a streak free finish.

I never knew you could use a chami to leave a streak free finish - intrigued as it it does not expand on this further on the packaging
Click to expand...
What you need to work out is whether 'drying' is an adjective or a verb in the sentence quoted.
 
Thank you all very much for your replies .... much appreciated.

As most of the current finishes are 'International Toplac', I will most likely stick with them. I did get a price for Awlgrip, but it was quite a price ! In addition Internationals website & staff are very helpful.

I had also discovered the 'How to paint a Wooden Boat' article, which is very useful in that it's concise & informative. Preparation, drying-out timber, etc, are key & I will be carrying out this work in a shed. My task is slightly further complicated in that I have an aluminium superstructure. Having downloaded some information from International, I know that I will have to be very careful with this, as preparation of the aluminium surface and application temperatures are critical to a long-lasting finish. I may try to find a professional aluminium spray painter for this - so if anyone with suitable qualifications is looking for a Busmans holiday in Ireland - Please apply here .... :)
 
I was up to speed on that ... but he's still oversprayed the varnish. I think.

Words of wisdom from a good old boy, now long gone, about painting outside. "Don't take off any more paint than you can put back on in a day".
 
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