Deep Sea Seals Reposted

[bendyone]

Are they any good, how long do they last and what maintance do they need? If it fails what emergency action show you take, and should I carry something on board to deal with this. ie a seacock you have a wooden bung.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Robin]

Try a search, there has been a lot said. We have one but it will be changed to a different make, the PSS Seal, this winter. I think the principle of a face seal is OK, but that the design of the Deep Sea Seal has been improved in later versions.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Strathglass]

The latest version is good. One or two improvements on it.

There is now an additional clip on the propshaft to stop it sliding back.

More importantly there is a large jubilee clip with a wing nut on it. It is loosly fitted around the seal and is intended for use in the event of catrostropic failure. The shaft cannot be rotated when this large clip is used, but it is certainly better than a wooden plug.

I have fitted deep sea seals to both cruisers and yachts and have enough confidence in them to fit one on my own yacht.

Other people may have different views on them, but that is my opinion.

ps you can get them from <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.asap-supplies.com>http://www.asap-supplies.com</A>

Iain


<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Robin]

PS re PSS Seals

Website for the PSS version is www.shaftseal.com

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Blue_Blazes]

As Robin says, do a search. IaInSimpson has his opinion, which he is entitled to. Mine is diametrically opposite to his, but then I don't expect he has suffered loss through having a Deep Sea Seal, YET.

Bill.

<hr width=100% size=1>One of these days I'll have a boat that WORKS

 

[pvb]

As an alternative...

Noticed you'd posted a query on rope cutters, so guessed you might be looking at installing a seal at the same time. I reckon the simple Volvo rubber seal is about the best value long-term. I had one, but replaced it with a high-tech Halyard seal, which doesn't leak, but which will apparently fail before too long, and can't be repaired. Result: loss of hundreds of pounds. On the other hand, the Volvo seals are readily available and usually last 7-10 years without problems.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[LORDNELSON]

Re: As another alternative...

Last year I repacked my conventional stern gland with some stuff from USA called, I think, "Drip Free Packing", it does what it says it does. Its expensive, about $70 for enough to do two glands. You end up with a conventional gland with no drips and less worry about catastrophic failure.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[TonyBrooks]

Ok, I know I tend towards the ludite, but I KNOW that a stuffing box will cope with out of alignment egines (snapped foot, collapsed mounts etc), I know it will cope with a bent shaft. It may need tightening every few hours, but the boat can be kept running.

I also know that twisted up, torn strips of fabric will rubbed with grease will do as gland packing in an emergency.

Been there, done that on the hire fleet.

My stuffing box, after 10 years on a hire fleet (so the shaft bearings should be well worn) has not been adjusted for three years and still showns no sign of leaking - on a stainless shaft I tighten it until the drip just stops.

I just do not see what advantage any form of "patent" seal can offer me.

Tony Brooks

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[vyv_cox]

Back to basics

My old-fashioned, grease lubricated, packed gland has been in service in my ownership for 7-8 years and for 3 years before that with the previous owner, who carried out no maintenance whatever. The packing has never been replaced. The gland is lubricated half a turn every two motoring hours. It does not drip water, ever, and runs at water temperature. The shaft has been pulled several times with no consequences for the gland.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[pvb]

But on second thoughts...

But, on second thoughts, you've posted elsewhere that you have a 7/8" propshaft. The Volvo seals are only available in metric sizes, so you would have to use something else.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[dickh]

Re: But on second thoughts...

I also investigated the Volvo seal afew years ago, but my shaft is 1" and the tube is 2" diameter and the closest Volvo seal was 25mm and 40mm diameter.
I will probably go for the DeepSea Seal as it is shorter then the PSS sea(I cannot physically get the PSS seal in), although I think the PSS seal is better engineered.
Perhaps I'll get a good deal at the Boat Show in January.



<hr width=100% size=1>dickh
I'd rather be sailing... /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

 

[Robin]

Re: But on second thoughts...

On first glance there doesn't appear to be very much difference in the overall legth of the two. The PSS compressed length is about 5.5"/5.75" long, the DSS I cannot see dimensions for but from memory (we have one) is at least that long. We are talking the same PSS seal (see www.lakesterngear.co.uk) aren't we?



<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[charles_reed]

Less friction

and, theoretically, better performance and/or fuel consumption.

Most of the patent seals are very forgiving of misalignment, but none of the oil-bath ones are satisfactory over the long term.

The best are the PSS and their legion of lookalikes - a stainless collar running against a carbon block.
The only problem is the setscrews working loose and the collar moving down the shaft.
They're dead cheap in France, about €80.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Mudplugger]

Bendyone... IMHO I suspect the length of service you will get from a deep sea seal will be dependant upon the area you sail in...Had two in 3 years on my W33, before I changed to the Volvo seal which gave me no trouble for the next 5 years, but then I am an east coaster with not a lot of water and a lot of mud, drying mooring, and mud particles in suspension..most others I know up here changed to the volvo type... TW

<hr width=100% size=1>Tony W.

 

[SydneyTim]

Had a PSS shaft seal for 2 years and can't recommend it highly enough. Only A$250 and we get "shafted" on every boat spare (pun intended) you can spend that on stuffing in a few years.

Someone asked why bother, I had a packing gland that always dripped and permanently wet bilges. Now there a bit dusty, I can keep things under the cabin sole, the wiring runs are in the dry, and when I drop oil or diesel in it stays where it is while I get the cleaning stuff rather than floating off to all corners of the boat.

Obviously my boat wil now sink, but from my look at the design I can't really see how it can have a catastrophic failure, some unven wear etc would lead to a drip like a packing gland, but severe flooding doesn't seem very likely.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[charles_reed]

PSS shaft seals

Don't be too sanguine.

I was in L'Escala last April, writing up the log, having just come down from Argeles when I noticed water rising above the cabin sole.

The automatic bilge pump soon dealt with the leak which turned out to be the PSS seal.

The SS collar had moved on the shaft and water was trickling in.
When I'd fitted it 3 years ago the Allen keys had been torqued up to the maximum, cyanoacrylic had been put on the allen key threads and two allen kets had been stuffed into the hole.
I notice that the (very much cheaper) French lookalikes all have an extra allen key hole.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Robin]

Re: PSS shaft seals

The Deep Sea version has 2 hoseclips on the rubber moving half of the device, they also slip. We added an extra hose clip on the shaft behind the seal as a backup - would this work on the PSS as well? I'm intending swapping to PSS this winter. The French one too could be an option since we may be over there before the boat comes out, just depends if the chandlers carry these in stock or have to order them in.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[LORDNELSON]

Re: Yes.......

my last boat had a grease lubriquated gland which worked like yours but the present boat (a Southerly) has no provision for greasing but does have water injection into its aft end to ensure a constant positive flow down the shaft and out through the cutless bearing. The theory is that the Southerly is likely to operate in shallow water highly charged with sediment and the flow out of the cutless bearing prevents ingress of sediment and thus shaft wear - with regard to shaft wear it seems to work. Hence my use of "drip-free packing" because I did not want to modify the sterngalnd to accept grease injection.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[dickh]

Re: But on second thoughts...

I researched this a couple of years ago, my problem is that I only have about 4½" between the stern tube and the G/box flange, and the Deep Sea Seal was the only one that would compress to fit this space. Pity, because I consider the PSS seal to be better engineered.

<hr width=100% size=1>dickh
I'd rather be sailing... /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

 

[charles_reed]

Re: PSS shaft seals

I have just that fitted to mine now - it hasn't slipped, but to make sure it's one of standard checks I make after any voyage.

If you run your engine for any period above about 1200 shaft rev I'd recommend having the water-cooled version. Mine isn't and after bout 6 hours running it starts chattering and shortly after to squeal as it overheats.

<hr width=100% size=1>