Deck Leaks

[tritonofnor]

Problem is this - been chasing a series of small annoying leaks around the boat for the last four years! Managed to move them aft so now the water either drips on to my laptop or my tv rather than the berth! Skylight leaks like the proverbial sieve, but I have plans to remake this year. Most annoying leak seems to emanate from where the corner of the wheelhouse meets the deck. Have tried using Captain Tolleys around all the wheelhouse woodwork, but just can't stop this one persistent leak. Thinking of sanding the deck paint off (deck is ply sheathed t+g pine, covered with cascover and painted.) and applying a thin coat of epoxy over the whole lot, but am worried that the leak will still find its way in via the wheelhouse corner... Any leak solving ideas are more than welcome - I'm about to go mad! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[Mirelle]

Coelan.

I have had a dry boat for 11 years, now.

Unlike epoxy, it dries retaining 300% extensibility, and adheres extremely well. It is brilliant around deckhouse corners, deck prisms, etc.

If done carefully, it is indistinguishable from varnish or paint, as the case may be.

However, it really should not be applied over paint. You have to get back to bare wood. It adheres quite happily to metal, glass, many plastics and of course your hands (gloves, every time).

 

[trouville]

My deck leaks as well.Ive found fine cracks that seem to let a lot of drips in,Anything such as screws nails that make holes should be sealed.

What is coelan? My decks canvas so i suppose it wont replace paint?

Ive just bought a very waterproof sleeping bag cover ready for summer in the baltic,there you will discover any deck leaks,either from pushing through the short seas or the nightly rain!

Cheeper than the med though at around 10/15 euros a night in a port or free else where, if only global warming would hurry up----

 

[mclark]

If your decks are canvassed then why not either just give them a good coat of paint or re-canvas. I am a great believer in canvassed decks - super cheap, flexible enough to move with the boat and very low tech so easy to do.

Contact me directly on mclark@manx.net if you think I can help you directly.

Mike

 

[trouville]

The canvas is new that is it was done two years before i bought the boat.Problem was he then went around the deck with an electric drill adding trim to cover joints, For example one piece of red teak he used, 2 feet long and 6 inches wide was held down with 40 screws!

Im still patching,next comes the toe rail each has over 100 screws!!I almosts striped it off and renewed.

Im all in favor of useing house paint or dulux for the deck but i still have some deck paint left what paint would you have used?

The other reason i havent finished the deck is he also glued allthe trim back on with casscophen then drilled and screwed it down one screw each 2 cms i removed the screws i could and blocked the hole with butal rubber and have been chiseling the trim off which is very difficult while not wanting to damage anything(except the trim!)

There has been a lot of other work that was needed,i do stop working on it to go sailing and of coures when the suns shineing i forget the leaks untill the next rain or wet passage!!In fact ive often woken up laying in inches of water thats why i have a water proof cover!!

And of course if im not going anywhere i put a cover over the cabin and decks which reduces the leaks to a point that a bucket and bowl keep things dry.

I think when the toe rails are done it should be fairly dry?

 

[mclark]

I dont think which paint you use makes much differance as long as its normal solvent based paint. When I canvassed White Heather's coach house and deck house I put two heavy coats of Read Lead on the bare timber wet on wet then put the canvas quickly onto the wet paint. The read lead soaked right through in places. I put another coat on the outside as quickly as I could so the whole lot dried as one. After drying I just coated with undercoat and gloss till the weave of the canvas almost disapeared. A quick clean down with sugar soap and a green pan scourer in the spring and paint on another coat of gloss is all the maintenance it gets.

As to the trim and toerail - what a peculiar thing to do - fix every 2cm WOW

When I fix I decide on the spacing dependant on the section of the timber - heavy section means less fixing but typically I suppose every 9 - 12 inches in beading.

Elsewhere in this forum I have posted my delight with some excellent bedding compound called Sovereign Builders Mastic - available from builders merchants. It behaves like non setting soft putty and simply skins where its exposed to air and stays completely soft elsewhere.

Sounds as though you do need to get the woodwork off and probably make new.

Mail me direct if I can help you any further.

Regards

Mike
mclark@manx.net

 

[pcatterall]

I was interested in Mirelles Coelan suggestion. I have teak decks and plywood cabin sides. I major source of leaks has been via the beading at the deck/cabin join, the sealant (1974) has given up and water creeps (is drawn) under the bead and gets down between the deck and cabin side. This has also affect the outer plywood veneer on the cabin sides.
I had thought to remove this first ply layer (generally for just 2 inches up the cabin side) and epoxy the side and the deck. I would then use a sealant bead or epoxy fillet at the actuall join.
Is there a case for using coelan over the entire teak deck and up the cabin sides? would I need a sealant bead or epoxy fillet at the actuall joint.
Is Coelan slippery on the deck.
Most gratefull for any tips
Regards

 

[trouville]

I just found this link from another post in the forum:

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Board/cb/Number/533465/an/0/

Origanly i wanted to do the lot again begining with oil paper underneith.One of the biggest problems was that the canvas was untreated and not painted under the fittings (and toe rails) if its rotted to far ill have to replace.

On another boat i cavassed the biggest job was the painting!! It takes quite some coats to to coat the deck.

Canvass is very light and some other FBs ive seen with teak decks seem a bit down on their water line.Weight in the wrong place makes a huge difference.That includes the weight of screws ive removed!

I want to make one piece ash toe rails and through overboard the 5 short red teak bits ill steam the ssh to about shape then screw perhaps once every 18 inches? Ill bed them down with butal rubber that never sets either.