Deck Glands

[PaulJ]

I have been contemplating the whys and wherefores of passing various cables through the deck. The options would seem to be :-

1. To cut the cables and install a plug/socket - I don't like this one because the plugs and their connections always seem to be corrosion traps.

2. To use one of a variety of rubber grommet arrangements through which the cable passes and then the connections are made inside the boat. I have never used this system but I like the idea.....

3. A stainless "swan neck".... possibly OK for the mast cables though it would need to be quite big (do they have a habit of snagging on ropes?), but not suitable for the sundry cables/co-axs at the stern.....

What are your preferences and what problems have you had?

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[vyv_cox]

Your option 2. I have five individual compression glands on deck, all connections made below. Never had a moment's trouble with any of them. It takes a little longer when taking the mast down but how often does that happen?

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[pandroid]

We have a swan neck at the mast and through-hull grommets elsewhere (your option 2) with connections below. I used to have plugs and they were a nightmare - forever failing to make contact

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[AndrewB]

Ditto

Deck glands are the way to go. Plugs are only for non-permanent fittings.

I put a junction box just inside the cabin where the cables come through, to enable the cables to be separated and pulled through for taking down the mast etc.

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[Gordonmc]

PBO had an article not long ago detailing DIY deck glands.
By memory they involve drilling out an M12 stainless bolt which goes through the deck. Cable goes down the hole and the whole thing is sealed with a couple of heat-shrinks.

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[charles_reed]

I don't need deck glands for mast cables having a keel-stepped mast, but have about 12 other through deck cables.

All of these are on compression type glands, but few have a connection inside, running straight through to the instrument(s) concerned.

I have found normal plug-type deck-connectors useless.

The best gland I have is a rectangle of re-inforced neoprene contained within two ss frames screwed together by 8 4mm machine nuts. You drill an appropriate-size hole through it and when you screw the two frames together the neoprene expands and makes a watertight seal - it's a veryneat way of leading a bunch of cables below.

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[yoda]

Try Index marine who have a range of glands that allow cables with end fittings to be removed easily. This allows your conection to be in the dry but close to the base of the mast. If my memory serves me right they do one suitable for multiple cables as well.

Yoda

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[roger]

Theres anothe possibility - I think the web adress is www.elvabro.com which is a sort of flat swan neck. Its a Swedish device which I bought a couple of years ago. It is perhaps an inch high and 6 by 4 across. It has quite a large hole through and takes all my mast cables comfotably.

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[tillergirl]

I have completely given up on those deck glands and so called dry plugs - because they all seem to fail, probably because I'm an odd bloke you takes his mast down each year. I have had a stainless swan neck made up this year and have just fitted it. Since I had four deck plugs at the foot of the mast, it's a lot neater. If you is ok in service, I'll do the stern where I have three cables (stern light, GPS and navtex)

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[andy_wilson]

\"Drilling out an M12 stainless bolt\"

If this was DIY advice I'll show my backside in Tesco's (or Sainsbury's when I;m buying some more 1/2 price Pot Noodles.

It will take the average DIYer at least a week to drill out a Stainless Steel M12 with a hole big enough to get a wire through.

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[PaulJ]

Many thanks for all your replies.... that Swedish thingy was interesting, I hadn't seen that before. However I think I will go for the compression glands, they are simple and I like the look of them - I just needed reassurance!
Thank you all,
Paul.

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[vyv_cox]

Re: \"Drilling out an M12 stainless bolt\"

My thought also. Have you ever tried drilling a 6mm hole down any kind of 12 mm bolt without a lathe? A recipe for lots of scrap bolts.

Hardly cost effective anyway, compared with the small glands sold by most chandlers at very low prices.

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[tgalea]

Re: Ditto

I am facing the same decision right now with my boat refurbishing.

I need to pass 3 cables, mast head light, wind instrument and vhf. How many deckglands are required ? One for each ?

Thanks & Regards
Tyrone


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[vyv_cox]

Re: Ditto

There's a type sold by most chandlers that has a rubber disc, about 40 mm diameterand 10 mm thick, sanwiched between two aluminium circular supports, one flat screwed to the deck, the other a cup that fits over the rubber. Screwing the connecting bolts together compresses the rubber. You drill your own holes for the wires. This will certainly take three wires, probably five or six.

Otherwise for individual glands, one per cable.

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[Gordonmc]

Re: "Drilling out an M12 stainless bolt"

I made a mistake. The item specified an M8 35mm bolt, not M12.
PBO 432 December 2002 issue. Page 50.
Andy... exactly which branch of Tesco will you perform in?

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[vyv_cox]

Re: \"Drilling out an M12 stainless bolt\"

I'll make a deal. I will do as Andy offered in any Tesco you can name if you can drill a 6mm hole down a 35 mm long M8 bolt without coming out through the threads. I don't have my trusty threads booklet here but I guess the core diameter of M8 is about 6 mm.

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[Gordonmc]

Re: \"Drilling out an M12 stainless bolt\"

Suggest you take it up with the author of the article, one John Wright. Your only grounds for challenging me can be on pointing out the article in the spirit of the forum.

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[yoda]

Re: \"Drilling out an M12 stainless bolt\"

I may be wrong but I think the boat on which this debated gland was fitted is up for sale on the internet. If it is her he has done a great job on the woodwork but deck cleats etc look like a stainless steel fabricator has been at work. I suspect a bench drill may have been used!

Yoda

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