Davit Strops: How to?

mobeydick

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Advise please, helpful people?

I would like to get (make/have made) a couple of wire strops for a dinghy that is on davits. The strops to go between the rings on the dinghy and the lifting tackle. To ensure the dinghy is lifted fully, the strops have to be the right length, with carbiners or similar to clip to the rings.

Any suggestions how to do that? I imagine two strops (for and aft) each with a central ring (to attach to the tackle) and 2 short lengths of wire with loops or similar for the carbiners.

Can I make this (then I can make exacly the right length) or have made somewhere?

Thanks

MD
 
I bought some 3mm ss wire a pack of copper ferrules and some thimbles and made up my own. I made a ferrule crimping tool with a couple of offcuts of 25mm square steel, put them together in a vice and drilled 10mm holes about 60mm apart through then bolted the pieces together, then I drilled a 6mm through hole at the join of the two pieces, then when the bolts are slackened off the ferrule can be inserted into the groove along with wire, the bolts tightened and the ferrule is then crushed over the cables I always put two ferrules on each slice.

once you have the crimper made up its easy to to get the right length and if you don't you can always make new, its cheaper than going to a rigger.
 
This is how it can be done with webbing:
dinghylift4davits600x400.jpg


We represent the company that makes these dinghy handling systems, so I declare a commercial interest!
 
I use a strop from each corner of the hard transom on my Avon dinghy, at the back. On the front I have a length of tube (actually a mtr or so of windsurfer mast) which passes under the dinghy (side to side) with the 'strop' passing thro it.

Set up like this the dinghy is very well supported.

Regds Nick
 
You can get short lengths of 7x19 s/s wire made up with Talurit eyes in any dinghy chandlers. I have just used lengths of 8mm rope tied to eyes in the transom and floorboards of my dinghy. The two strops each have a soft eye in the centre into which I clip the snap shackles which are integral with the lower fiddle blocks of the davit tackle. Crude but very effective.
 
Like Snowleopard I prefer to use rope. I feel wire is more 'aggressive' on the interior of the dinghy. Also if you stand on it it's more likely to slip, leading to skidding when you hop in. Rope is easier on the hands too. Nothing wrong with wire in itself - just pointing up the alternative.
 
I have a wooden beam with carabiners tied near each end. These are clipped to lifting rings in the tender. The blocks from the davits are fastened to the top of the beam.

The dinghy cover fits around the lifting tackle and the beam forms a kind of ridge in the cover, level with the gunwhale, which helps to avoid pools of water.

TendertoCYANO-13AUG2007.jpg
 
I use lengths of light weight SS chain and SS snap hooks then you can adjust the length by trial and error and then cut off the links you are not using.
 
Yes the Sowlepoard approach would work at the stern, but forward I would have the rope stretched across the dingy about 3 inches above the floor. Not good. The wooden rod idea is intersting, i may think along those lines. I will try the chain approach for now

Thanks
 
Just following up on this post. Have a set of good davits on my boat and have just bought a Quicksilver 240 airdeck tender + 3.3 Mariner.
Problem is that the QS does not possess suitable fitted lifting rings – so am thinking to myself is it worth the £100 to have the rings put on to the tubes by a professional or is well within my capability as a reasonably DIY’r. The pro was quoting surface prep , controlled ambient temperature and the like – well it sounded like a bit of a dark art – is this so ?
 
I have a Quicksilver Airdeck (3M though) and glued the (front) rings on myself. Seem to be holding fine, a year later. A bit fidly to try and get the glue under the patch and nowhere else, but otherwise OK. I did it in the summer in the garage, after roughing up the surface a bit.
 
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