cutting compound

[lancelot]

Hi.
Would someone give me advice regarding applying cutting compound with a sander/polisher power tool. Should the compound go on the sponge attachment, or rubbed onto the hull and then use the power tool. Also, should a little drop of water on the sponge or hull help.
What speed should the tool be on?
Should the polish be rubbed on the hull first and then polished with the power tool, or can the polish be applied with the tool?
Regards,
Lancelot

 

[Cymrogwyllt]

don't.

far too easy to go too far.

 

[Talulah]

There are some goods videos on how to do it on youtube. Just search for buffing and polishing.

 

[KREW2]

I went down this route.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ke5kfYz9Ybw

 

[alahol2]

You can do it with a drill but you need to be able to run it at about 1/3rd speed. You also need to get/make an arbour that the polishing sponge pad can be attached to. The sponge pad needs to be damp, spread a bit of compound onto it, spread that around on the hull a bit then start the drill. It spreads lots of 'spits' all around including any other boat that is too close.
The lambswool bonnet is normally used dry after spreading the polish on the hull by hand, again at about 1/3rd speed.
If you can get a proper polishing machine it's much easier to control and use. I've killed two cheap electric drills over the years, the bearings don't like it.
Good luck.

 

[VicS]

Hi.
Would someone give me advice regarding applying cutting compound with a sander/polisher power tool. Should the compound go on the sponge attachment, or rubbed onto the hull and then use the power tool. Also, should a little drop of water on the sponge or hull help.
What speed should the tool be on?
Should the polish be rubbed on the hull first and then polished with the power tool, or can the polish be applied with the tool?
Regards,
Lancelot

If you use a compounding paste and a foam mop it must be kept adequately moist

I use a foam compounding mop and a fibreglass polishing compond.
I have used a Farecla compound (G3 is what people would choose now but not what I originally used) and Boat-pride medium compound ( NLA but once marketed by Farecla).
Most recently I have used Starbrite medium compound (and the heavy compound locally by hand where necessary).

I used to use an old 2 speed electric drill on its slow speed (900rpm)
I now have an inexpensive Silverline variable speed sander/polisher. I use it at about 900rpm ( Available from ToolStation for a bit over £40 or Force4 for a bit more)

I use the white foam compounding mop ( bought separately)

I apply the compound to the wet mop and also to the hull. While working I keep the mop and the surface nice and moist with water from a trigger spray bottle.

The surface should be clean before starting.

I seal the restored surface with a polish applied by hand. I last used a Starbrite polish but many people use a silicone free car polish


Starbrite rubbing compounds

Silverline polisher

MOP


Before and after:

 

[lancelot]

Many thanks for the replies and tips. I did have a go today with the Silverline polisher/sander power tool. In general, I am pleased with the result, however, there was a lot of spray as I used it. I used Farecla G3 OR 10 (it was the finishing compound). I was not too sure about the water. I did have, several times, a hard layer of the compound - perhaps it needed more water. I rubbed it off by hand. The finish is like the example from Vic S. I now know what to do next time.
Thanks everyone.
Lancelot

 

[VicS]

Many thanks for the replies and tips. I did have a go today with the Silverline polisher/sander power tool. In general, I am pleased with the result, however, there was a lot of spray as I used it. I used Farecla G3 OR 10 (it was the finishing compound). I was not too sure about the water. I did have, several times, a hard layer of the compound - perhaps it needed more water. I rubbed it off by hand. The finish is like the example from Vic S. I now know what to do next time.
Thanks everyone.
Lancelot

Yes the amount of water does tend to make a bit of a mess. ( cover the boats standing alongside .. and put the car in the carpark!)

If you build up a hard layer you dont have enough water, but of course if you use too much it not only makes more mess abut wastes the compound. As I said using a a trigger spray bottle is the trick.

 

[Marine Reflections]

I went down this route.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ke5kfYz9Ybw

+1

Been going down that route for 20 years now, apart from the protection part. Great video! One of the simplest explanations of the process. The guy working the process however has a lot to learn, his technique is awful.

I never use water, as better products have more working time, less heat build-up. If you have to use the likes of G3 then a better add would be the like of a quick detailing spray as this provides more lube than water does.


If you have to use water, then use a misting techniques as Vics suggests, you will have less splatter.

But why have any?

You can help the heat build up or 'crusting' of the product (handy if you have to work in direct sunlight) by changing to a more open cell structured foam pad. This will direct some of the heat away from the surface of the pad.

 

[Stu Jackson]

http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=117266

 

[KREW2]

+1

. The guy working the process however has a lot to learn, his technique is awful.

Oh Bugger!
I have been using this video as a Bible, the results have been excellent, and lasting.
So what is he doing wrong?

 

[Marine Reflections]

Hmmm, perhaps I was being a little harsh by using the word awful, the process is certainly worthy of bible status, so don't ditch it, as you know, it works very well.
I am probably just being my normal pedantic self.

I use this video occasionally when explaining to clients the depth of work required to get the correct results (yes, some still believe a quick wax will correct all) and there are just a few things the operator does that make me question whether he is 'time served'.

From about 1:23 onwards as he is working the superstructure, he is using the lower half of the compounding pad causing it to 'skip' and will be draining his energy as he is constantly fighting to keep control.
The part for concern is where the red meets the white, there is a difference in the height of the two surfaces, the angle he is working you can see he is polishing both the white and the red sections together instead of separately.

The highest point of the red will be put under much more pressure and will be thinning out much quicker than the surrounding area.

I know, I know hardly a huge offence.

Oh and wearing a massive metal watch through the process doesn't help my comfort levels.

The main thing is not to throw the bible out just because I have issues.