Cutting compound or what?

[Spyro]

I'm going to be doing a bit of buffing and polishing on my 30 year old GRP hull which is looking a bit dull.
What's the best compound to use? I've see stuff labled as cutting compound, scratch remover, colour restorer. I've got a big bottle of Tcut colour restorer, any good? What is it I should use?

 

[Daverw]

I used brasso, cheap as it was already in the cupboard

 

[johnalison]

I've used Starbrite and Farecla, both by hand and with electric. They all seem to work and I think it is more a matter of technique than which compound you use.

 

[Sneaky Pete]

A light cutting compound helps to rejuvenate a dull looking hull. As said Farecla, starbright and 3M products produce good result. Using a machine with the appropriate foam buff helps greatly and its quick.

 

[Javelin]

Its a matter of reducing scratch size and knowing what gets rid of what.
For example a gel repair will need flatting back so I use 240 grit.
This produces a smooth to the touch finish.
To remove the 240 grit scratches I then use 600 grit wet and dry.
To remove the 600 grit scratches use 1000 grit wet and dry.
You could then use a fast cut compound which will remove 1000 grit scratches but I tend to go with 1500 grit and then compound.
Scribbling on the surface with a marker pen between grades is a great way of monitoring your progress especially on a white surface as its sometimes hard to see areas you have and not done.

If you want really shiny go with 2000 grit before compounding, this is especially true of dark coloured hulls that show up any imperfections.

If the hull is just a bit grubby and dull then just go with 1000 grit wet and dry before compounding.

You can compound out visible scratches but its much faster to wet and dry them out first and then compound.

 

[lw395]

Its a matter of reducing scratch size and knowing what gets rid of what.
For example a gel repair will need flatting back so I use 240 grit.
This produces a smooth to the touch finish.
To remove the 240 grit scratches I then use 600 grit wet and dry.
To remove the 600 grit scratches use 1000 grit wet and dry.
You could then use a fast cut compound which will remove 1000 grit scratches but I tend to go with 1500 grit and then compound.
Scribbling on the surface with a marker pen between grades is a great way of monitoring your progress especially on a white surface as its sometimes hard to see areas you have and not done.

If you want really shiny go with 2000 grit before compounding, this is especially true of dark coloured hulls that show up any imperfections.

If the hull is just a bit grubby and dull then just go with 1000 grit wet and dry before compounding.

You can compound out visible scratches but its much faster to wet and dry them out first and then compound.

This.
But I suggest practising on something which doesn't matter too much.
Things may look worse before they look better.
I find the very fine w&d paper a big help.
The other point is, a good layer of wax is what people really need to be looking at.

 

[Spyro]

A light cutting compound helps to rejuvenate a dull looking hull. As said Farecla, starbright and 3M products produce good result. Using a machine with the appropriate foam buff helps greatly and its quick.

Yes I'm going to use a machine. I've looked at Farecla but there is a variety of products under that name so was just wondering which particular one is best for that particular job. Thanks

 

[Javelin]

This is what I use.

I find with grp that I get the best results with the cutting head set to slow and only use fast when buffing.
Just a light spray of water as with anything more you'll spray the compound everywhere.

 

[alahol2]

Yes I'm going to use a machine. I've looked at Farecla but there is a variety of products under that name so was just wondering which particular one is best for that particular job. Thanks

When the gelcoat is chalky I've used Farecla G3. Subsequently I use G10 to keep it shiny. With Farecla the higher the number the finer the cut.

 

[Spyro]

When the gelcoat is chalky I've used Farecla G3. Subsequently I use G10 to keep it shiny. With Farecla the higher the number the finer the cut.

And that's what's confusing me, Farecla do 3 G3 products, Scratch remover, Colour restorer and Paint renovator. There may be more. Am I Bothering to much?

 

[richardbrennan]

I use:

3M Marine Compound and Finishing Material 1 Litre.

Used with a white 3M Lambswool bonnet, it does not require water spray like other products used with foam heads, however it's not cheap! It will take out minor scratches and you will need to go over with 3M Finesse It or similar afterwards to remove swirl marks. Follow this with the polish of your choice, I use the GTechniq products on a dark blue hull and get very good results, but friends get equally good results on white hulls.