Cutting a slope onto a disc of Sapele?

[nigelmercier]

As part of my PC monitor installation, I need to make a wooden disc (about 100mm diameter) to support the bracket for the vertical rail on the coachroof, as this slopes at about 7°. I've got a suitable bit of Sapele that I took off the chart table, but I'm not sure the best way to put a slope on one face.

Current thinking is to make a series of reducing-depth cuts with a router, then sand flat with a belt sander, before cutting the disc with a saw drill.

Any other suggestions?

 

[VicS]

As part of my PC monitor installation, I need to make a wooden disc to support the bracket for the vertical rail on the coachroof, as this slopes at about 7°. I've got a suitable bit of Sapele that I took off the chart table, but I'm not sure the best way to put a slope on one face.

Current thinking is to make a series of reducing-depth cuts with a router, then sand flat with a belt sander, before cutting the disc with a saw drill.

Any other suggestions?

 

[nigelmercier]

(A plane)

I'm not great with a plane, but I could try I guess. The problem is that the disc is about 100mm diameter.

 

[Bertramdriver]

It depends on how steady your hand is, but I would use a 80 grit flap wheel on my small angle grinder. That would give the approximate shape and then finish off with a 80 grit flat sander to even out the bumps. Then finish as normal with 120 and 240 by hand. It's the only way I've found to put compound curves onto wood.
If you haven't used a flap wheel like this before, put in an hour or so practice before you tackle the real job.

 

[Danbury]

If I was doing it... I'd probably leave it square rather than round when you cut the slope. This will make it easier to hold etc. Then, I'd mount the square block on a board/bench but with one end resting on a batten, to create your 7deg angle... then all you need to do is cut the block level.

To do this, you could make some battens around the block to providea platform for the router, then just route the top off... or maybe use the battens as a guide for a panel saw, then plane smooth... lots of options on this one.

Finally, I'd make it round.

 

[BruceDanforth]

How about very slowly and delicately with a felling axe.?

As part of my PC monitor installation, I need to make a wooden disc (about 100mm diameter) to support the bracket for the vertical rail on the coachroof, as this slopes at about 7°. I've got a suitable bit of Sapele that I took off the chart table, but I'm not sure the best way to put a slope on one face.

Current thinking is to make a series of reducing-depth cuts with a router, then sand flat with a belt sander, before cutting the disc with a saw drill.

Any other suggestions?

 

[B&M]

I would tape the wood to a larger piece with double sided tape and clamp it so that the final surface you wasn't to finish with is horizontal. With a sharp plane, plane across the grain initially and finish of down the grain.

 

[Blueboatman]

Cut the slope with the wood still square, (as said), use a hard point saw, 3 minutes tops, cutting shy of the final line ( 'cos you ain't probably a woodbutcher) then work it down-from the middle to the edges-with a paper grizzly disc on an a/grinder..Chances are the coachroof isnt dead flat, the grizzly disc method quickly adjusts for that final fit.
You can 'clamp' it to a workbench with a screw, whose hole and countersink will be hidden by the monitor bracket.
Cut the 'round' with a jigsaw, or hand saw and finish with grizzly etc and sandpaper ON A BLOCK

 

[JumbleDuck]

Last year I cut a teak winch pad across at a slope - from bottom on one side to top on the other to make a mounting for my new stove chimney. After a lot of pondering I tried using a mitre saw:

I screwed the pad to a surplus chunk of wood, went half way through with the saw, turned it upside down, changed the screws and did the other side. It worked fine with just light sanding required to get the final surface smooth.

Unfortunately it wasn't quite thick and therefore slopey (about 1") enough so my chimney is squinty, by just enough to annoy the hell out of me. So that's this spring's job #1...

 

[vas]

It depends on how steady your hand is, but I would use a 80 grit flap wheel on my small angle grinder. That would give the approximate shape and then finish off with a 80 grit flat sander to even out the bumps. Then finish as normal with 120 and 240 by hand. It's the only way I've found to put compound curves onto wood.
If you haven't used a flap wheel like this before, put in an hour or so practice before you tackle the real job.

+1 flap wheels are amazing, wouldn't believe it at the beginning I'm using them everywhere now

 

[JVL]

Belt sander

 

[Hadenough]

Belt sander

+1
40 grit to remove the majority, then 60 and so on.

 

[prv]

I've cut large chamfers on things before using a plywood jig for the router. Two side rails sloping at the required angle, and a board to enlarge the router base so that it doesn't fall in between the rails when it's all the way over to one side.

Something like this, though mine are usually temporary and nothing like as nicely finished:

Possibly overkill for this purpose, though.

Pete

 

[BERT T]

DISC.

Do you have access to or know anyone with a wood turning lathe, both operations done on the one machine!

 

[prv]

Do you have access to or know anyone with a wood turning lathe, both operations done on the one machine!

How would you form the angle across the base on a lathe?

Pete

 

[Rigger Mortice]

How would you form the angle across the base on a lathe?

Pete

Mount it at an angle on a faceplate?

 

[VicS]

Jesus it's just about 6 hours since the question was asked

All that's needed is a 12mm slope across 100mm.

Could have done that several times over by now with a hand plane!

 

[fergie_mac66]

Jesus it's just about 6 hours since the question was asked

All that's needed is a 12mm slope across 100mm.

Could have one that several times over by now with a hand plane!

+1 it would take longer to setup a jig,faceplate on lathe etc

 

[Lakesailor]

7°? Hardly critical is it? Don't bother cutting the angle. Use it as a pad. Chock it with blocks at the edge to achieve a horizontal surface and use Sikaflex or similar to fill the gap

 

[Danbury]

If a job's worth doing... it's worth doing properly !