billyfish
Active member
Hi , I got the prop shaft out yesterday and I'm going to attack the dreaded cutless bearing today, but what is the best make to replace it with, don't want to do it again anytime soon. Thanks
Cutless bearing
- Thread starter billyfish
- Start date
Plum
Well-known member
I replaced mine just over 10 years ago with Vetus Brass Shaft Bearing (1" Shaft, 1-1/2" OD) and it is still good.
rogerthebodger
Well-known member
I use vesconite bushes for both mt cutlass and rudder bearings
Tranona
Well-known member
choice is between either a brass shell or non metallic, usually phenolic or GRP. Bearing lining essentially the same so no difference in potential life. Non metallic is claimed to avoid potential galvanic action but the probability is low and brass is probably more commonly used.
MontyMariner
Well-known member
If you have to take the propshaft out to remove the bearing and you have a bit of space between prop and bearing housing, consider fitting a slightly longer (10mm) bearing, then you can get some mole grips on the end of the bearing next time around.
Tranona
Well-known member
Cutless bearings come in standard lengths (100mm for 25mm for example) and housings are usually made to the same length
billyfish
Active member
Can't get the bugger out 
scottie
Well-known member
Look for grub screws firstCan't get the bugger out
as you have shaft out then spliting the shell with a hacksaw is one answer
roaringgirl
Well-known member
Th
That is standard procedureCan't get the bugger out
38mess
Well-known member
It might be epoxide in 
billyfish
Active member
Grub screws out . Hack saw next I think
vic008
Active member
Don't forget you probably have another bearing at the stuffing box end
Tranona
Well-known member
Actually that is quite rare these days. Most shafts are floating in the tube with just an outer bearing or a P bracket. This allows for more potential movement for the engine. It is possible with some tubes to fit a bearing on the inboard end. I have just done it on a stern tube that had a solid stuffing box housing screwed onto the tube rather than the more common hose mounted stuffing box. This is the second time I have done this modification but to make it work you need a very good flexible coupling such as the Vetus Bullflex I used. The reason I did it is that the shaft is very long (1.6m) and I wanted to use a Volvo type rubber shaft seal rather than the stuffing box and a shaft that length needs an intermediate support.
MontyMariner
Well-known member
Cut a 10mm length off the old bearing and pop it in first as a spacer
BabaYaga
Well-known member
I have replaced twice on my boat, both times with brass shell bearings, but different makes. What I have found is that the thickness of the brass shell can vary greatly between makes. First time the brass tube was quite thin, last time it was substantial. Much prefer the latter, as I have to hammer it in into the stern tube. This was made by Tor Marine.
fredrussell
Well-known member
To get old one out use a reciprocating saw with long blade for metal in. I did mine using hacksaw blade - took an age. I’ve since learnt the pros use reciprocating saw.
Poignard
Well-known member
I removed the bearing housing and pressed out the old cutless bearing using studding, nuts and suitable sockets.
I thought I might as well take the opportunity to renew the sealant between the bearing housing and the sternpost.
I thought I might as well take the opportunity to renew the sealant between the bearing housing and the sternpost.
rogerthebodger
Well-known member
MontyMariner
Well-known member
. . . for P brackets
MontyMariner
Well-known member
As the gap between shaft and housing is fixed, thicker brass means thinner rubber and vice versa.
We need some expert input as to the pros and cons please.
