Cutlass shell question ?

[wingcommander]

Is this a common material for bearing shell. Looks like woven glassfibre . On a 25mm shaft 37.5 mm outer shell of cutlass. Into bronze stern tube. 24 carrot plated.........na that last bit is the camera's flash.
The sliver was trimmed as it had impact damage.

 

[wingcommander]

On further investigation I see several materials used including paper ??? .(Phenolic) .
Is it advisable to treat the trimmed end .

 

[vyv_cox]

Yes, phenolic

 

[Jasonbbo]

Yeah I just took the exact same bearing out of my boat , unfortunately it couldn’t be pushed out as it’s not metal and has welded it self to the P bracket, so I had to rip all the rubber out first then tap down the sides with a blunt screwdriver to brake out the shell in bits , I’ve bought a brass one which I hope will be easier to remove in a few years time.. this is my first experience with cutlass bearings as my previous boat had a sail drive…

 

[Tranona]

The overhang is probably because your housing is too short for the standard length bearing (100mm for 25mm diameter). I would leave it as it is for the additional support it gives as you have plenty of clearance to the face of the prop. However if you want to fit a rope cutter you may find you have to cut it off to get the necessary 40mm gap. On one of my boats the bearing housing was an old Stuart Turner which was 3 5/8" long with a rubber bearing and a 1" shaft. When I converted it to cutless I cut the excess off because I needed the space for the cutter. No ill effects over the 20 years or so it ran like that.

 

[Pete7]

Yeah I just took the exact same bearing out of my boat , unfortunately it couldn’t be pushed out as it’s not metal and has welded it self to the P bracket, so I had to rip all the rubber out first then tap down the sides with a blunt screwdriver to brake out the shell in bits , I’ve bought a brass one which I hope will be easier to remove in a few years time.. this is my first experience with cutlass bearings as my previous boat had a sail drive…

That's interesting. I used a fibreglass shelled bearing last year after being fed up having to cut brass ones out.

Good luck.

Pete

 

[Jasonbbo]

Fingers crossed I can get it out again in a few years

 

[Neil_Y]

Another way is to buy a bearing that is made for a clearance fit in the carrier, you can then have a dry run assembly, slide it in by hand and once you're happy bed it on epoxy. Epoxy softens with heat so if it's in a metal carrier you can often just heat the carrier to remove the bearing. composite bearings aren't always in carriers they can be one piece composite, no rubber and no metal. For a clearance fit OD is 0.05 to 0.15 less than carrier ID. As far as gap for a rope cutter some cutters only need 20 or 30mm between prop and P bracket. http://18.220.127.146/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Bearing101-1-1024x809.jpg

 

[Neil_Y]

That's interesting. I used a fibreglass shelled bearing last year after being fed up having to cut brass ones out.

Good luck.

Pete

 

[peteK]

Yeah I just took the exact same bearing out of my boat , unfortunately it couldn’t be pushed out as it’s not metal and has welded it self to the P bracket, so I had to rip all the rubber out first then tap down the sides with a blunt screwdriver to brake out the shell in bits , I’ve bought a brass one which I hope will be easier to remove in a few years time.. this is my first experience with cutlass bearings as my previous boat had a sail drive…

Some are epoxied in place,I had to use a blowtorch to remove mine.

 

[Bilgediver]

Yeah I just took the exact same bearing out of my boat , unfortunately it couldn’t be pushed out as it’s not metal and has welded it self to the P bracket, so I had to rip all the rubber out first then tap down the sides with a blunt screwdriver to brake out the shell in bits , I’ve bought a brass one which I hope will be easier to remove in a few years time.. this is my first experience with cutlass bearings as my previous boat had a sail drive…

Might have been glue in