G
Guest
Guest
Could any one please tell me how much wear is acceptable on a cutlasss bearing and what is the best way to remove and install one. All the best Chris
mike_kolling
N/A
Best to do a search for previous items in these forums, there have been loads on cutless bearings and how to change them.
charles_reed
Active member
They're actually cutless bearings - the other sort is a naval boarding sword.
If you can't actually hear the shaft knocking when you seize it and shake, they're probably OK - unfortunately is as likely that wear is in the shaft as the bearing.
Talk to Countrose bearings - they're the UK's leading manufacturer of non-standard cutless bearings and because the amount of play is very dependent on the type of backing you have them on there is no such thing as a definitive nswer.
If you can't actually hear the shaft knocking when you seize it and shake, they're probably OK - unfortunately is as likely that wear is in the shaft as the bearing.
Talk to Countrose bearings - they're the UK's leading manufacturer of non-standard cutless bearings and because the amount of play is very dependent on the type of backing you have them on there is no such thing as a definitive nswer.
Chris_Robb
Well-known member
I have about 2 -3 mm play on a 2 inch shaft, I have been advised to replace. so if you have a thinner shaft - I would have thought that you shoild have proportionately less play.
When you do replace the cutlass do check that the shaft itself is not warn - otherwise you will find yourself doing it all over again. My shaft is warn - the reason why the cutlass wore out in 4 years. I also have crevice corrosion in (black pitting marks) around the area through the Cutlass caused by a lack of oxygen at some point. Apparently this pitting is a bit like an iceberg - it might not look bad on the outside, but can be very extensive inside. So new shaft for me as well.
When you do replace the cutlass do check that the shaft itself is not warn - otherwise you will find yourself doing it all over again. My shaft is warn - the reason why the cutlass wore out in 4 years. I also have crevice corrosion in (black pitting marks) around the area through the Cutlass caused by a lack of oxygen at some point. Apparently this pitting is a bit like an iceberg - it might not look bad on the outside, but can be very extensive inside. So new shaft for me as well.
Trevor_swfyc
New member
It is impossible to talk in terms of wear in relation to the gap between the bearing and the shaft. I have just replaced my Cutlass bearing as was 14 years old and I was replacing the stern "Volvo" gland. which by the way should be replaced every 5-7 years. The old cutlass bearing was no longer round, it had worn oval also the rubber was pitted and scuffed. The new bearing is not tight on the shaft as the old one was but I am sure this is how it should be as the shaft spins lubricated by a thin film of water between the shaft and bearing when in use.
Remove the shaft, this on my yacht involved removing the rudder first, undo the six bolts that clamp the shaft and then pull out the shaft. I did this rather than struggle to remove the prop which would require a prop puller. Then remove the cutlass bearing holder by undoing the two bolts and then using a knife ensure the holder is not glassed to the hull and is free to turn. It turns off in the opposite direction to the prop in forward. Be carefull not to do damage I applied shocks with a wooden mallet to release mine rather than going over the top with the stillsones.
The bearing is held in place with two grub screw remember to remove these. Make up an extracter with a long bolt, washers and a tube bigger than the cutlass bearing it has to be removed the way it went in thats towards the prop end. The new one should be an interfearance fit or may slide in without a lot of effort. Remember to replace the two grub screws. Before putting the shaft back through the bearing remove any sharp edges or burs on the shaft.
If your stern gland is volvo then replace this at the same time as this makes sense when you have the shaft out anyway.
Should be clear that you required a new one when you compare you old cutlass bearing with the new one!.
Good luck.
Remove the shaft, this on my yacht involved removing the rudder first, undo the six bolts that clamp the shaft and then pull out the shaft. I did this rather than struggle to remove the prop which would require a prop puller. Then remove the cutlass bearing holder by undoing the two bolts and then using a knife ensure the holder is not glassed to the hull and is free to turn. It turns off in the opposite direction to the prop in forward. Be carefull not to do damage I applied shocks with a wooden mallet to release mine rather than going over the top with the stillsones.
The bearing is held in place with two grub screw remember to remove these. Make up an extracter with a long bolt, washers and a tube bigger than the cutlass bearing it has to be removed the way it went in thats towards the prop end. The new one should be an interfearance fit or may slide in without a lot of effort. Remember to replace the two grub screws. Before putting the shaft back through the bearing remove any sharp edges or burs on the shaft.
If your stern gland is volvo then replace this at the same time as this makes sense when you have the shaft out anyway.
Should be clear that you required a new one when you compare you old cutlass bearing with the new one!.
Good luck.
vyv_cox
Well-known member
Re: Cutless Bearings
See November's PBO, full description and pictures there. One major omission though, it is common to insert a grub screw or monel pop rivet through P-brackets into the cutless bearing to prevent rotation. No mention of this in the article.
Removing a bearing that is fixed in this way without realising it is there turns an easy job into a very tedious one.
See November's PBO, full description and pictures there. One major omission though, it is common to insert a grub screw or monel pop rivet through P-brackets into the cutless bearing to prevent rotation. No mention of this in the article.
Removing a bearing that is fixed in this way without realising it is there turns an easy job into a very tedious one.
