Cutlass bearing removal

nmunnery

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I have the readers forum plans for building a cutlass bearing extractor but I do not have the equipment to cut a circular hole in 3/8ths steel. The shaft is only 1" and the bearing 1.5 inches X 4. I wonder if anybody has used any kind of automotive extractor to do this job. (I do know some people with a garage. Any tips would be appreciated. I have the shaft out by the way.
 
use a hacksaw inside on the bearing,and cut through, but be carefull of the p bracket , 2 cuts and tap the bearing out gently, a piece of stud bar 2 nuts and big washers will pull the new one in.
 
Make sure there are no grub screws in the P Bracket which hold the bearing in place. There may be two.

If you can freeze the new bearing it will slide in easily. Its worth getting the tubular type extractor made up if you can.
 
Also have a look at a tile grout removal tool, it has a very narrow and hard blade that is pulled not pushed, will cut a neat slot and avoid damage like that seen when using a hacksaw.

Avagoodweekend......
 
My brother and I manufactured our own extractor/insertion tool to work with either with shaft in or out.

This is long and complicated to write but easy to do!

Your shaft is out so what you need to get made is 2 pieces of tube (bushes).
1 which is (say) 10 thou less than the o/d of your bearing and is longer than the bearing. The second should be (say) 10 thou bigger than your bearing o/d and longer than it.

You then need 2 washers that are bigger than the o/ds of your two bushes + a length of threaded stud and 2 nuts to fit the studding.

Fit a nut to the studding and pass it through the washer & smaller bush, place the studding through the bearing and assemble the larger bush, washer and nut - line everything up and then just wind the nut up on the large bush end - it will "extract" the bearing without any fuss.

To insert the new just reverse to process.

But like a previous poster said - make sure the grub screws are removed from the "P" braket before you start.

Peter.
 
Make sure your bearing isn't just held in with epoxy and grub screw (as some will be). In these cases with some heat applied to the bearing carrier the bearing can be slid out by hand. Epoxy secured/aligned bearings can be a clearance fit so they slide in and out by hand. This is possible as the epoxy softens at 60 70 degrees, but the hard epoxy will support the bearing in allignment.
 
This is the way, but he does not say it is in a P bracket. I assumed it is in a stern tube, and the bearing fits against a collar inside the bearing carrier, so you might not get anything against the inside end.
 
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